Alright now that I have a GOOD engine as my base here, finally able to start my project.

Things to do are all new gaskets and billet plenum, re-doing headgaskets while its on the stand.

I've been recommended to do a rear-main seal, never messed with that so how much of a pita is that to do? Figured I may have to since the oil pan has to be swapped over.

Plans are Cam, H.S 1.7's, headers and exhuast with a little dress up and some paint. Trucks red and white, should I go Orange or Blue for the block?

 

Nice!

I vote blue.

Curious as to what's involved with the rear main too. I just did my timing chain so no seepage there anymore but, a little drip from the rear...not bad yet though.

Of course, yours should be much easier to do on the stand.

 

Yea makes thing alot easier to get to lol, also thats not algea on the motor just bad lighting in the garage

 

Cool! 5.9?

 

yep. figured if im doing a swap i should do what i want to right the first time.

Only thing i'm unsre of is how big of a cam can i put in to get decent numbers while retaining stock rods and springs and not having to change much else

 

I should have caught it in your first post but, using the 1.7:1 roller rockers is basically like creating a performance cam with the stock cam. But you can't use the 1.7:1 rockers with any other cam besides stock.

I believe the Harland Sharp website even states don't use the 1.7:1 with a performance cam. The have roller rockers in 1.6:1 for a performance cam if wanted.

I would suggest to at least tare apart the motor and replace all bearings and piston rings, maybe freeze plugs too. It is all the small things that go first. If you get a master gasket kit it will include EVERYTHING you need. That kit will also include valve seals, get those replaced. Also now is the time to get those heads checked for cracks and bent or burnt valves. Most automotive machine shops can do all that above for $60 each head. It is well worth the money.

5.9's are notorious for head cracks in between the valves. When I first got mine it was cracked, thank God the junkyard had a 1 week warrenty and I got a rebuilt head sent to me from the manufacture free of charge to me. Also the other head had a burnt valve which needed replacement.

 

not doing a full gasket set as this thing doesnt need it, it barely has 120k on it so only doing top end, head gaskets and rear main since i'll be in there anyway. i'll get the heads checked when i pull them but it might be a while till this gets rolling..gotta love when life throws financial curveballs..15 hours a week at work doesnt pay for anything >.>

Thanks for the info bout the rockers, how much of a difference do those make? is it decent or pretty significant? I was mainly trying to get maybe 300horse out of this thing but if an exhuast pcm rockers and maybe a 52mm fastman will do it then i'll be happy

 

I don't know about 300HP stock was 245HP, and that was at the engine not at the wheels with 0 miles on it.

But that combination will be best for easy HP improvement.

120,000 miles can be a lot of miles if it was driven hard (You never know from looking at it).

 

if behind the water pump is any indication, its looks to be in VERY good shape, there is a bit of carbon buildup in the exhuast ports and the valves look pretty clean, but puling the heads and going from there. if it needs it i'll crack it open and clean it up good before building