I have a 93 Dodge Dakota 3.9L with 78,000 miles on it. Originally truck had problems that it would not idle or rev above 2000 rpm until it reached Operating Temperature. Previous owner had taken the truck to two different shops who racked up about a $1600 bill, which did not solve any issues. They replaced ECM, Cat & Muffler, IAC Valve, Map Sensor, Coolant Temperature Sensor, Ambient Air Temperature Sensor, Distributor Pick-up, Cap & Rotor, Plugs & Wires, Fuel Pump, and I'm sure there is more... When I began looking at the truck I removed the intake and noticed the oil pump drive gear had been worn severely into the teeth. I removed the engine to replace this gear and distributor bushing. Along the way while it was out I replace obviously the oil pan gasket, intake manifold gaskets, distributor o-ring, exhaust manifold gaskets, and throttle body gasket. While I had the injectors out I also replaced the pintle caps, rubber o-rings, and plastic washers on them. I have reinstalled the engine and hooked everything back up. Upon initial start up of the engine I smelt a strong odor of gasoline and noticed a small puddle underneath. Upon inspection I discovered that there is raw fuel coming from the passenger side exhaust manifold where it meets the Y-Pipe. I have ohm tested the injectors, which all read within 14.3-14.6 ohms. From the info. I have gathered they are all within their tolerances.

Is there something obvious here that I am missing that I should be looking at? Is there a voltage reading I should look for at each injector connector? Has anyone else experienced this problem? Any input is greatly appreciated, because I am at a loss of what to do from here besides what the other shops have done already, which is throw parts at it.

 

Well, I would say it is either that you are not getting combustion on one or more cylinders.... or possibly one or more injectors are not pulsing properly and constantly spraying fuel or maybe just at the wrong time. Check your wiring to your injectors make sure you have them all connnected to the correct injector (inj. 2 to front pass side, inj. 4 to mid pass side, inj. 6 back pass side).

 

Welcome, Out! Wow, sounds like you have skills to fix it, kind of like me when I go hunting - I'm great at hunting, it's the finding and killing that's the problem! Don't listen to me because I know nothing - timing problem? Chain, etc.?

 

Thats a fuel problem that has to be injector related / not firing.
I'd pull the injectors and test them with a basic switch and AA battery (that's all the juice it needs) You just want to know if it is misting or if it's gushing. You can use injector cleaner in the tube that you attach to the injector.

 

After it runs and you can smell the gas/see fuel leaking, pull your spark plugs and see which are firing nice, and which ones are wet with excess fuel. Put new plugs on the ones that have excess fuel, and turn the motor over looking for spark. If they are sparking fine, check the injectors.

Even though it most likely is an injector issue I would go in that order, as it starts with the easiest checks first.

 

CD36 is right. That is the easiest, fastest, cheapest way to do it.

 

I would remove the injector rail with all the injectors still on it, turn on the key, and see if you have an injector that's pissing gas. It's possible you damaged one when you put them back in.

A bad spark plug isn't going to cause that much gas in the exhaust.

 

That is true, the other reason I said to check the spark plugs while it is doing it though is it is an easy way to check WHICH injectors are causing issues. That way he at least knows where to focus his attention to.

It would suck if he just removes the fuel rail and during the process something moves, and when he tests it with the fuel rail removed it all looks normal. This way if things look normal or it is tough to tell he at least knows which are the problem injectors, and can do things like swap around injectors to see if the problem follows the injector, or stays on the same cylinder, etc.