Hi all, and again, thanks for the help as always!!! Here is my latest problem. I went to have tires replaced, they said I needed my upper and lower ball joints replaced.

1. (I don't trust them) How can I tell if this is true? I don't have any shacking at high speeds. No popping when taking a turn. Is it safe to drive till I notice these symptoms?

2. I read some of the posts and realize I may be in for a fight loosening the upper ball joints. Why in the manu. manual do they say to place the "special" tool on the upper ball joint & strike with hammer? Steps after, unscrew ball joint??

From manu: (4) Position Ball Stud Remover C-3564A as shown
(Fig. 6). Rotate threaded portion of tool to apply force
to the upper ball stud.
(5) Strike steering knuckle sharply with a hammer
to loosen ball stud from knuckle. Do not force ball
stud out from knuckle with the tool.
(6) Remove ball stud seal.
(7) Use Removal/Installation Tool C-3561 to
unthread ball stud from suspension arm.

3. I just replaced rear bearings and seals and noticed the leak was coming from rear break cylinder, not happy with this repair shop, I think they are trying to up-sell.

 

Take it to a different shop. At least for diagnosis.

The tool provides the pressure, but hitting the side of the steering knuckle breaks the ball joint loose. Use a fairly heavy, hard blow hammer (steel hammer head) for this. You can probably rent these tools or get them as loaner tools from O'Reilly's or Autozone. The tool sets are rather spendy, even from the auto parts chains.

It's probably safe to drive, ball joints rarely fail catastrophically, but can increase tire wear rather dramatically as proper alignment is not possible with worn out parts.

I would try to do the job myself, btw. Don't know your skill level, but this is how you improve your repair skills and confidence.

And shop for parts. Parts prices can vary dramatically from source to source and brand to brand. You're fixing a 17 or 18 year old vehicle, and probably won't be keeping it another 200,000 miles, so buying the best (ie. Moog) isn't necessary. Economy brands, imho, will do just fine. And are available for 1/3 to 1/2 the price of the high priced ones.

Btw, wheel cylinders (brakes) are easy to replace and are cheap enough that you can (and probably should) do them when you do a brake job. Leaky wheel cylinders can ruin brake linings.

 

Brian, thank you very much. You cleared up a very good point for me, I was thinking they wanted me to hit the tool, causing a jolt to the ball joint. They want me to hit the assembly, that makes much more sense. Yes, I am going to wing this. I just did my rear bearings and seals, brakes and brake components (didn't come with the cylinder). I ended up with "some" fluid on the pads, hope that will be okay over time. Thanks again, and any other lessons learned would be appreciated.

 

Rock Auto has some of this stuff on clearance sale. Here's the link, I've been thinking of stocking up on the steering, suspension, and brake parts (mine's a 96 4wd.)

http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclef...l=en&html=true

It looks like there are two styles of ball joints. One is press fit, the other is threaded. Be sure that you notice the difference and order the correct ones.

 

Yes, that is why I am going to spend the few extra dollars to buy them locally. That way I can take them back if they are incorrect. Funny thing is, I told my dad the issues, he said "sounds like you need a new truck". Told him no way, I will go as far as buying a new engine if it ever dies on me. I have 240K on her, going for 1/2 a mill.... So much space to work on her, under the hood, driving her to she falls to pieces. Thanks again for the link and advice.

 

Bushings are a pain in these trucks, for control arms they have to be machine pressed in and out.

I'd advise you go to a different shop since they do seem to be just saying somethings wrong and fixing something else entirely.

And I feel you on the keeping her around. My old man tells me the same thing about my cranky old Tank, and I just rolled over 222.5k, and have a 5.9 getting built to go in in place of my 3.9 boat anchor