Welp there's why I was getting no resistance.

 

There's enough of the old tab showing to be able to solder a wire onto it, just clean that broken tab good before soldering.

 

Fired up the soldering iron I bought a year ago and never used. Did a few practice solders on some wire (never soldered before) came out looking pretty nice. So I decided to take on the sending unit wire. It ain't pretty but it appears to be strong and working. I did learn it's probably best to try to solder something that's not turned on it's side as the solder likes to run off.

 

To get solder to flow over the metal, it needs to be clean and then you need to use a solder with a flux. If you use solid core solder, you need to use a bit of soldering paste on the area you want the solder to stick. It will still drip off if the piece is really hot and you use too much solder. I'd be a bit cautious heating up a contact like that too much - you don't know what's on the other side. I just heat it up to melt and flow (with the wire there as well) and then take the iron away & let it cool.

 

It looks like I'm trying to track down the same issue.

Can anyone tell me how you remove the lock ring on top of the sending unit? I have a Dodge factory service manual and it just says to unscrew it. My question is how?

We cleaned off the wax and crud that was built up but there doesn't look like a good way to remove the plastic ring. From what I understand, I don't want to damage it as replacements are scarce.

What is the trick here? Is there a special tool?

 

It should unscrew off, you just need a pair of channel locks large enough. I believe I used some oil filter pliers.

 

My sending unit looks just like this one. How do the use channel locks? Just spread them wide enough to lock on the flat sides of the lock ring?

 

Yep exactly

 

I have a 1987 Dodge Dakota with the fuel sender not working. The part is discontinued and I could not find a used one. I took a chance and ordered a Spectra Premium FG64A. I cut the wires and the tube that the sender was mounted to, off of the new part. and attached it to the tubes on my old existing unit(removed the old sending unit first). It works, but the travel of the float was not long enough so i removed the new float and rod, straightened the old rod, and installed the old rod and float into the new sending unit. Rather lengthy process and somewhat tedious as sending units are delicate instruments, but it works. I have yet to install and fill tank, but all preliminary checks worked.

 

I just use a screw driver on the ridges around the lock ring and tap it with a hammer.