Those headers look like they line up good... Very pretty, I may have to add a pair to my to-do list.

 

I don't know if anyone besides Ben is interested, but I'll keep blogging this. It's not a major build up, but I'm doing a lot of cleaning, inspecting, and putting things right on this engine. Over the years I've gotten to be very particular. I'm not looking for major improvements in power, a little better mpg would be nice. But what I really want is reliability.

The block is cleaned up and painted and I've got the headers fully installed on the engine. A lot easier on an engine stand than it would have been in the car. Tough getting a wrench on the nuts that torque the header flanges down. As I mentioned previously, one of the exhaust manifold studs was broken off flush with the side of the block, it came out almost on it's own.

I pulled the valve covers off and found some puzzling things. One of the valve cover bolts was inside the valve cover resting on top of the head. Hasn't been munched or anything, and where the bolt should have been was an obviously different style bolt. The engine top end is fairly clean, but I think the guy probably misrepresented it as having only 10K on it since a rebuild. It doesn't have that old stinky oil smell, but the parts are plated with internal engine patina. Really puzzling to me was, that in addition to finding a valve cover bolt inside the engine, I found a couple of little bits of pea gravel. This was on the oil filler side of the engine and the only explanation I can think of is that he or someone ran without the oil cap on and the gravel bits got in that way.

There's a little oil in the plenum, btw. Plenum will probably come off this afternoon.

I installed a nice new 2 row radiator this week, too.

I've ordered up a bunch of parts, including a Hughes style valley pan, a plenum gasket set, a new hi-vo oil pump, front and rear main seals, & a pan gasket. I wasn't gonna pull off the timing cover and water pump, but considering the developments, I'm considering it.

I'm also considering retorquing everything. Cost nothing but time, and can't hurt (unless a head bolt breaks.)

 

My bet would be the pea gravel came in when he changed out the valve covers. At the same time, he lost the bolt and replaced it. I wouldn't stress too much - just clean and torque and re-gasket everything you can easily reach.

And paint it red. Red makes it faster.

 

It's grey. Looks very industrial. Shiny black pan & valve covers.

I had the pan off for a couple of days (note to self, always drain all the oil out before attempting to remove the oil pan.) Cleaned and cleaned--the smutz (or is it spooge) on the pan was like concrete--can't understand why people put things together dirty. Shiny and clean now--Easy Off is a great heavy duty degreaser. I'll be coughing for days from the fumes.

New rear and front main seals--a tip, the Felpro timing cover gasket set has a front main seal included. And a new hi-vo oil pump and neoprene (pretty blue thing) pan gasket. I thought about a new timing gear/chain set. Decided against it, tho.

My valley pan and intake gaskets came yesterday. I'm done buying parts I think. Got the plenum soaking this morning and will start with the Kegger mod today. I'll be finished by the weekend, I think, the plenum will end up in Iron Grey too.

Costs? $400 for the engine, $100 for gas to go get it, gaskets about $100 (every gasket except for the head gaskets,)headers $139, oil pump $60, valley pan $70, misc. cleaners $10, paint $20, engine hoist $110, engine stand $40, spark plugs, cap & rotor $60.

 

So I've been kinda done with this for about 10 days, but I guess I never tried to rotate the engine. Monday afternoon, I tried--if you're storing an engine for any period of time it's a good idea to keep things moving.

Well, to make a short story even shorter, it would only rotate about 1/2 of a crank revolution and then stop. Rotate back a half rev and it would stop--hard. Oh sheesh, I'm thinking, I got water in the cylinders and they've rusted up. Quite disgusted, I put the cover back over the engine and let it sit til this morning.

I pulled the pan off to have a little peak to see if there was something interfering . . .

THERE WAS! The counterbalancer just forward of the rear main bearing was hitting the bottom of the hi-vo water pump. I tried clearancing the new oil pump and punched a hole in it--I wouldn't feel safe trying to patch it with JB Weld.

So it's off to the auto parts store for a standard volume oil pump. I feel good, I thought I was gonna have to pull the engine all apart and do a ring job (at the very least.) Whew!

 

One of the greatest feelings in the world - realizing you didn't break the big expensive toy you've been working on for weeks.

I haven't driven my Dak in at least a week... Been playing with the Audi - it needs a new turbo, trying to decide if I wanna go stock or big.

 

Brian, I too am VERY interested in your project!! You're doing good man! Glad the bolt came out, and it was just the oil pump in the way. What about a transmission? Will your current one hook up okay? Wish I lived closer, I'd want to be there giving you a hand! I love helping with these things! I've done a bit of this stuff way back in my young days, but it's still in me blood!

 

Thanks, yeah it'll bolt right up. Same motor, just a bit fresher. Kinda shocking that the oil pump was built without the clearance for the crank counterbalancer, tho.

I'm wanting to pull the trannie & transfer case when I pull the motor--mostly to get some new seals & gaskets in and pressure wash the whole shootin' match.

I'm glad I got the big blue neoprene pan gasket from Felpro--the pan came off without damaging any seals or gaskets.

I have the motor on an engine stand and today when I was flipping the motor over, it got away from me a bit and I've pulled something in my left shoulder/neck. Almost has that same feeling as a cracked rib. Probably will use the shop crane to get it back in an upright position.

I live in hot as hell southeastern Arizona, so it will be early Oct. before I start the engine swap. Oiled the cylinders and I've duct taped all the openings to keep moisture & dust out.








And the headers:

 

Man those headers look good... Whole engine looks good.

 

I would be interested in learning where u got your headers...for $139