Still won't start; new fuel pump
after whacking the tank and making the pump run long enough to get me home, i thought surely changing out the fuel pump would get me rolling but it still won't crank. i checked the wires leading to the control box (the splice), they're okay. i switched relays around. i ran a wire and got fire to the pump and i know the new pump's working. my friend's putting the bed back on now.
my luck to have two or more simultaneous problems. now i'm thinking that the brain is not communicating with the fuel pump relay or the asd relay. i hate to have to buy a new computer for it.....
is there anything else i can rule out guys? ignition switch? is there anything between the ecm and the power module? i'm not getting fuel pressure nor spark
i'm at a loss here....TIA
my luck to have two or more simultaneous problems. now i'm thinking that the brain is not communicating with the fuel pump relay or the asd relay. i hate to have to buy a new computer for it.....
is there anything else i can rule out guys? ignition switch? is there anything between the ecm and the power module? i'm not getting fuel pressure nor spark
i'm at a loss here....TIA
Last edited by KevinSandidge; Sep 4, 2013 at 07:36 PM. Reason: too much information
What do you mean the new fuel pump is "working"? Do you have fuel pressure? If the pump is running, what makes you think one of the relays is not getting a signal?
Have you checked for spark?
Have you checked for spark?
we bypassed the relay and ran a 12v wire to the pump to see if it worked. no spark at the coil.
Have you ohm'ed out the camshaft sensor signal wire? I forget which one it is at the sensor end, just check 'em all, looking for continuity with pin 44 of the PCM plug. Pull the plug and check from the PCM side, clean it with contact cleaner as long as you have it pulled. Don't try to check by piercing from the outside of the connector, this will let moisture in and invite corrosion. You have the FSM, correct? In that case, identify ground on the PCM plug and make sure you have low resistance (less than 5 Ohms) to the chassis. A corroded ground strap might be the source of your difficulties since the PCM has to bring ground to the ASD and fuel pump relays.
It seems the list of possible causes aside from the PCM (computer) is starting to shrink, I'd sure like to think we tried everything else first. That said, yours was the PCM that didn't seem to wanna communicate with the OBD1 scan tool, right? Did you at least get a "55" response (end of report) with the "on-off-on-off-on" ignition key approach to code retrieval?
It seems the list of possible causes aside from the PCM (computer) is starting to shrink, I'd sure like to think we tried everything else first. That said, yours was the PCM that didn't seem to wanna communicate with the OBD1 scan tool, right? Did you at least get a "55" response (end of report) with the "on-off-on-off-on" ignition key approach to code retrieval?
Last edited by vhinze; Sep 6, 2013 at 04:44 PM.
thanks for the insights; it all may be moot now cause i ordered a PCM; it arrives tomorrow. i was not getting a check engine light to even see the codes flash. if for other reasons that doesn't fix it, God forbid, i'll run down those wires....no i didn't check those cam sensor wires....thanks for helping; it means a lot.
got a new computer in it and still won't start; very depressed. at least i'm seeing the check engine light come on; it know at the end of the key on/off that it's flashing a 55 which is nothing and im relativly sure i saw a 12 which is nothing and the first flashes may be an 11 but i cant find that code online..yet.. if i don't get an idea from the codes i don't know what to do; my auto knowledge is exhausted
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Hang in there, you're making definite progress! If the replacement PCM restored your CEL and restored diagnostic functionality, it seems safe to say the old one had issues. You do not want issues with your computer. Perhaps now you could hook up to the OBD1 connection with a scanner and confirm the 11 code. Do so after attempting to crank and without disconnecting the battery. Disconnecting the battery wipes out all codes 'til they occur again, making things difficult for the troubleshooter (that's you). Code 12, by the way, means the batt has been disconnected less than 50 starts ago. Codes remain for 50 starts even if they spontaneously clear themselves, if the battery is left connected.
Two codes pertain to the camshaft sensor circuit, 11 and 54, so its important to track that down.
If the fuel pump runs for two seconds (more or less) each time you turn the key to "Start", guess what? Yep, points right at the camshaft sensor.
Two codes pertain to the camshaft sensor circuit, 11 and 54, so its important to track that down.
If the fuel pump runs for two seconds (more or less) each time you turn the key to "Start", guess what? Yep, points right at the camshaft sensor.
Last edited by vhinze; Sep 10, 2013 at 10:34 PM.
hangin in there over here; thank you so much for tracking my progress. i'm waiting on a friend who has a scanner and another to trace the wiring..i hope.......i'll surely keep you abreast of the situation!
A god friend came with a scanner! The OBD I had two settings; one for a 1989-1994 which showed the same code 11 as the check engine code. There was another setting for a 1994/FCC to 1995 that showed a code 42. Not sure what that fcc stands for or if thats the setting i use or not.....if it's the first setting then i look for an 'interminent' signal loss from the cam and/or the crankshaft senson. if i go by the 'fcc' setting, i'm to look again to the ASD relay....might yall know which of the two settings i'm to go by? thanks again!


