OK, got this truck from my son (#1). Son (#2) needs a ride so I gave it to him. Truck ran OK but leaked oil like a sieve. After putting on a new oil pan gasket while the engine was still in the truck (if you ever did it you know it ain't as easy as it looks) and still leaking badly we decided to pull the engine and put it on the stand and check everything and replace every gasket on the engine to include the head gasket. We didn't have the block rebuilt because we didn't have that kind of scratch but we replaced all the gaskets and got the engine back together. We also replaced a lot of parts just because they looked like the original parts and wanted the truck to last a while. We replaced starter, plugs, plug wires, distributor, coil, hall effect stator and put in a new battery. He also paid for some aesthetics. Bed from a junk yard, New right front fender, 4 new tires, all chrome bumpers and grill and headlights and taillights.

Problem: Truck wont start. I can get no spark from the spark plugs or the coil. Tested the wires on the hall effect IAW the Haynes manual and the system checked out. Power at the number 1 and pretty good spark from the coil when jumper is wiggled between number 2 and 3. I have read about every thread on here about this issue and have looked at all the splices on the drivers side of the fender well.(they looked OK but will re-do them tomorrow just in case). I took the Hall Effect stator back and replaced it because that's what the Haynes manual said to do. The plug that plugs into the bottom of the coil has power (between 5 and 6 volts I think). I have added a couple of extra ground wires between the engine and body because I could only find 1 and wanted to ensure the engine was grounded properly. I believe the relays are good as I can hear the fuel pump turn when the key is turned to the on position.

Any ideas what to look for next?

 

I wonder if your PCM is still doing its job they can just pooch

 

I took the ECU out and went to O'Reillys. They said it'd take 5-7 days to get here. I still got the old one so is there anything else I could look at?

I did a continuity check between the distributor wires and the ECU plug and that seems OK but I am not an electrician so I am unsure.

Failed to mention the tank and pump are less than a year old and were working fine before I pulled the engine.

 

Your gettings spark at cylinder one? I had that happen with my 2.5 and being it was stick I pop started it but then she started shaking really bad and barely moved.. The camshaft broke right after cylinder 1.. all the symptoms you had I had so until I pop started it I wouldn't have even guessed that.. It did take me breaking that part two times before we realized that the head was ever so slightly warped and doing a head gasket job may have brought that issue out in it according to me mechanic who races a dirt series car so I trust his opinion.. Just a thought for yea IdK if that's your issue or not but that's what I cam across after new tires, brakes, timing belt and clutch lol