ABS control module '92 Dak 4x4
I have a 92 Club Cab 4x4 w/ the Magnum V6 and 4sp Auto OD.
It has rear wheel ABS, the ABS and brake lights are on, and I need help.
I can't find the ABS Control Module or even the ABS hydraulic control unit / valve assembly under the hood and I'm not sure if it has been removed by a previous owner or I'm just looking for ABS in all the wrong places.
I did back-trace the rear wheel sensor at the pumpkin to a valve unit mounted on the frame rail on the driver's side just behind the fuel tank.
So any help with the ABS stuff locations and IDs would be great.
I've replaced the rear wheel sensor and am looking at replacing the ABS control module. (And / or the vehicle speed sensor as the cruise control is not working either.)
Thank you,
Red
(Ozarks92Club4x4)
Also looking for parts truck(s) in the Ozarks rust / dent free body and good condition interior trim items.
It has rear wheel ABS, the ABS and brake lights are on, and I need help.
I can't find the ABS Control Module or even the ABS hydraulic control unit / valve assembly under the hood and I'm not sure if it has been removed by a previous owner or I'm just looking for ABS in all the wrong places.
I did back-trace the rear wheel sensor at the pumpkin to a valve unit mounted on the frame rail on the driver's side just behind the fuel tank.
So any help with the ABS stuff locations and IDs would be great.
I've replaced the rear wheel sensor and am looking at replacing the ABS control module. (And / or the vehicle speed sensor as the cruise control is not working either.)
Thank you,
Red
(Ozarks92Club4x4)
Also looking for parts truck(s) in the Ozarks rust / dent free body and good condition interior trim items.
Concerning the speed sensor:
Before you conclude the sensor is the problem, take a hard look at the accel/set and decel/resume switches on the steering wheel. Check 'em for continuity with a meter. The tabs soldered to the tiny circuit board inside the switch like to develop a cold solder joint after a few thousand cycles. A touch with a soldering gun will generally restore continuity. The right hand switch set obviously gets the most wear.
I gotta go look to confirm, but I seem to recall the ABS switch unit/manifold being below the master cylinder. There are a nest of brake lines going into it (this on my '93 4x4). Adding brake fluid when nescessary and pumping the pedal a bit usually extinguishes the lamp. On one occasion, I had to strike the ABS to unstick the shuttle.
Before you conclude the sensor is the problem, take a hard look at the accel/set and decel/resume switches on the steering wheel. Check 'em for continuity with a meter. The tabs soldered to the tiny circuit board inside the switch like to develop a cold solder joint after a few thousand cycles. A touch with a soldering gun will generally restore continuity. The right hand switch set obviously gets the most wear.
I gotta go look to confirm, but I seem to recall the ABS switch unit/manifold being below the master cylinder. There are a nest of brake lines going into it (this on my '93 4x4). Adding brake fluid when nescessary and pumping the pedal a bit usually extinguishes the lamp. On one occasion, I had to strike the ABS to unstick the shuttle.
Last edited by vhinze; Oct 14, 2013 at 12:32 AM.
Concerning the speed sensor:
Before you conclude the sensor is the problem, take a hard look at the accel/set and decel/resume switches on the steering wheel. Check 'em for continuity with a meter. The tabs soldered to the tiny circuit board inside the switch like to develop a cold solder joint after a few thousand cycles. A touch with a soldering gun will generally restore continuity. The right hand switch set obviously gets the most wear.
I gotta go look to confirm, but I seem to recall the ABS switch unit/manifold being below the master cylinder. There are a nest of brake lines going into it (this on my '93 4x4). Adding brake fluid when nescessary and pumping the pedal a bit usually extinguishes the lamp. On one occasion, I had to strike the ABS to unstick the shuttle.
Before you conclude the sensor is the problem, take a hard look at the accel/set and decel/resume switches on the steering wheel. Check 'em for continuity with a meter. The tabs soldered to the tiny circuit board inside the switch like to develop a cold solder joint after a few thousand cycles. A touch with a soldering gun will generally restore continuity. The right hand switch set obviously gets the most wear.
I gotta go look to confirm, but I seem to recall the ABS switch unit/manifold being below the master cylinder. There are a nest of brake lines going into it (this on my '93 4x4). Adding brake fluid when nescessary and pumping the pedal a bit usually extinguishes the lamp. On one occasion, I had to strike the ABS to unstick the shuttle.
(On my '92 the valve / manifold / lines are not connected at the master cylinder, the only ABS type thing that I've got is the one valve type unit on driver's side frame rail behind the fuel tank.
My truck was a Missouri Department of Conservation vehicle and I have the build sheet for it, (which includes rear wheel ABS), but I'm thinking someone may have removed it maybe.)
Maybe a Dodge service tech can confirm the '92 ABS set-up?
Do you know if the ABS control module is tucked in there somewhere as well?
(And one of the diagnostics on the OBD I seemed to show all four wheels moving at 40-50mph with the engine on and truck in park. I'm not sure what that means, if anything, either.)
Right now the tach is not working, the ABS light and Brake light are on, and cruise control is not working, it's fun but frustrating. And, of course, Dodge said replace the rear wheel sensor, and if that didn't work, to replace the ABS control module.
(I think I'll need more beer for this one!)


