i have a problem doing my upper ball joints in my 95 dakota v8 4x4. i got the oold ones out with no problems pressed them out fine. i go to the parts store get new ones everything seems to be in good order the look exactly the same but when i put them on the A arm they fall right in with no resistance every vid I've watched the bjs had to be pressed in. but i went back to part store made them look up th parts again and there the right ones. just dont know what to do as i am a big novice at this stuff but am able to figure most things out but this is just beyond me anyone have anything as in the way of help id appreciate any advice..

 

Take them back and go to another parts store. I'd get a cheap plastic vernier caliper (here's a link to what some precision metal calipers look like) - they're available in many hardware stores that sell tools. Use these to measure inside diameter of the "hole" the ball joint goes into (that's what the sharp pointy things on the caliper are for), and then measure the outside of the new ball joints and if the hole is larger than the ball joint, you have a problem and maybe then you should check with a dealership to see what parts they have to offer.

 

thanks man thats what i was thinking on doing the caliper thing. and thats what my brother was saying that maybe the people that i got it from changed the A arm and i was going to change part store like you had said anyway thanks friend.

 

That arm may have been changed, but if it has, most likely both were done and you'd have no way of knowing what they came from (although compatibility should be pretty limited, so it shouldn't be hard to find out). The parts store may not be able to tell you what ball joints to put into there if the part was actually changed. I would get the cheap plastic caliper anyway - they can be very useful, and then, I'd take one of the new joints you have now, go to a local dealership and see if they had one of those ball joints in stock. If they do, use the vernier caliper to compare the two joints & if they're both the same, you have a problem with the arm and if they don't match, you can return the joints to the parts store and get some that fit.

 

You can get a nice digital caliper from Harbor Freight for under $20. In Canada, maybe Princess Auto has a similar deal? Btw, if you take the old ball joints in with you, the parts store should have a caliper to measure them.

I guess I'd take the ball joints back and see what a set of control arms would cost. That way you get nice new bushings to go with your new ball joints. I did a quick search and Rockauto and Autozone don't list control arms, btw. Sooo. . .

I wonder if they're giving you 2wd ball joints by mistake?

I'm thinking that I would take the ball joints back and go to an autoparts store like a NAPA dealer. You're more likely to get helped by someone with a little knowledge that way.

 

2wd ball joints are threaded as they screw in and out. Make sure they didn't give you a set of these.

 

You need new upper control arms. You ruined them by pressing the old ball joints out because they screw in and out.

 

I almost said that until I seen he had a 4wd. I wasn't sure if they had different control arms than the 2wd. if they are the same then that sucks.

He Better go junk yard searching for new control arms and pick up the socket needed. I found one on eBay made buy sunco for 25 bucks shipped. Its 3/4inch drive so if you only have up to a 1/2inch order an adapter as well.

 

I wouldn't buy that socket if it's only $25. I have a Snap-on one that I put a 3' 3/4" breaker bar on it ALONG with a 3' pipe to break that ball joint loose. I just did upper ball joints on a truck that spent a little time in Oregon. I don't know how much snow they get but I know they get rain and there was some rust on this truck. Even the one I did that lived it's whole life in AZ still needed about 6' of breaker bar/pipe to break loose. They are tight. Don't skimp on the socket or breaker bar. The 3/4" drive Snap-on breaker bar was bending about 20* with my 156 lb weight behind it. Any money you save you might be spending on hospital bills.

 

It got the job done for me. I soaked them in pb blaster and heated the control arm with a propane torch for about 5 mins and used a 1/2inch breaker bar with the 1/2-3/4inch adapter and a 4 ft chain link fence pole for a cheater bar. They came out like butter. The same socket same brand was 80 at a local auto parts store.

I stuck the cheater bar all the way on the breaker bar so I didn't bend it.I was at the end weighing In at 220 and my buddy closer in weighing in at 180. Im guessing this helped not bend the breaker bar. It was his I believe its a huskey.

My truck has been a Florida truck all its life too. No rust on the control arms at all.