How did you test for spark? Does the check engine light come on for a few seconds when you try to start the engine?

If you find the coill is working... I like to check the plug wires at night in the dark to see if there is any arcing happening. I have had plug wires that looked perfectly fine but had a break inside or/and a fine split in the insulation which caused the engine not to fire. A ohms test is good to try.

 

How about the firing order? This is a very common problem after one does the plugs,cap,rotor,wires change and all your symptoms and the things it is doing fit with that. Basically the motor turns over in what seems a normal start but it won't catch and run.
It isn't very hard to put them back on the cap one post off. I just did it a couple months ago with the book in front of me:/ I like to mark the numbers on the cap and the wires with a silver sharpie since my 94 dak is so tight around the Cap IDK why its so darn tight to the back of the throttle body.

 

i got it fixed, it was the computer i put one from a junk yard for 30 dollars, i dont get why because it was sending the pulses like it was suppost to but its fixed

 

Awesome!

 

well that is great. Good news

 

Good to hear !

Has anyone every pulled these older ECM's apart to see how they are built ?

I have been able to fix some older electrical stuff.
One thing I have seen (and fixed) many times is solder joint cracks/failure where the leads of the component go into a circuit board.
This is especially likely when the circuit board is mounted vertically.
Vibration and gravity work against the heavier components, and the solder gets tiny tiny cracks where it meets the copper traces on the board itself.

I inspect the board, and just re-melt the solder at the joints that look suspect.
I fixed a daytime running light module on a mid 90's Ford last week that way.
The part is no longer available and hard to find locally.

 

I've re-soldered small connections like this on electronics, mostly the kids mp3 players.

I heat up a stainless steel dress makers pin and just touch the joint to get the solder to flow.

Use a stainless pin so it doesn't stick when the solder cools.

Use forceps or tweezers to hold the pin and rest your wrist on something so you have a steady hand.

 

Its not that they are programmed to die at 150,000 miles its the fact that the car companies know how long the parts will last and although they could make a car that will last forever and never break nobody could afford to buy it.
They also do not want the vehicle to last too long since they could not sell people new ones.

 

The PCM doesn't power the coil, it pulses the ground circuit. The coil and injectors should get their power from the ASD...which is grounded also by the PCM.

 

sorry thread jack here but WTH are you talkign about?

ive seen parts fail @ 120km's and i mean 120 not 120 000 (tranny on my 2009 nitro) same day i bough it LOL

my Dad's F150 had 650 000 on it when he sold it.. sure never changed anything cept suspension/brakes and windshield, normal wear and tear..

i own a jeep with 383k on it ... mostly original cept for wear and tear parts..

my 92 dakota still is mostly original including the PCM..

parts fail from stress/fatigue/bad soldering and so on.. they can fail same day you get it like my nitro did or 30 years down the road, nowadays more often then later