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Mopar Ball Joint Socket?

Old Jun 11, 2014 | 10:01 AM
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Default Mopar Ball Joint Socket?

Hai Everybody
1995 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 Magnum, Rear Wheel Drive
So i'm going to do my upper ball joints, i was thinking of buying this set;
Alltrade 648749 Kit 32 Specialty Ball Joint Socket Tool Set - Hand Tool Sets - Amazon.com Alltrade 648749 Kit 32 Specialty Ball Joint Socket Tool Set - Hand Tool Sets - Amazon.com
but have no clue if those will fit my ball joints. And no where here has a set to rent out, let alone heard of ball joints that screw in. And i hear they're really tough to get out so that'll be a joy especially w/o air tools, thinking about buying one or maybe find someone w/ one that they wouldn't mind lending out. But i also need struts some time soon, so if i can get it aligned as they wouldn't before *story below*, so when i do them might as well do my lower ball joints b/c you have to take the strut out to do so anyway.
*story/rant*
so i went in for an alignment b/c i was getting some decently bad wear, and they told me i needed one inner and one outer tie rod. So i went ahead and replaced both my inner and outer tie rods on both sides, it was $100 total, vs their $236 total (w/o alignment) for one inner and one outer. I went to one of my closest shops b/c i wanted to support them as they were a relatively new building, but these guys seemed like they hated their jobs, and i had to ask them repeatedly to check the driver's side, i was in the lift area w/ them b/c i accidentally entered through their bay b/c their building was odd how you entered, but that was really nice b/c i got to see what they were doing. So b/c of their attitudes i decided not to go to their shop for as an alignment because i figured they were just going to half-@$$ the job, so i went to a reputable shop, actually a dealership, as they had a discounted alignment for a very nice price of $53, all 4 wheels. When i got there i gave them my key, blah blah blah, and told them i would just have them call me when it was done, as i had a ride to go back to work. They said it would only take an hour, hour and a half. Three hours later they never called, i was working in the warehouse so i just figured i didn't get reception and they left a voicemail. So i wait another half and hour and call them up to see if it was done. It wasn't! Three and a half hours and it wasn't done. Ten minutes later i get a call and they tell me it needs a wheel bearing and a passenger side upper ball joint. Oh i was fumed. So i go over there at a 100mph, and pickup my truck. The tried to align it and i assume they aligned the driver's side first, and the steering wheel wasn't aligned straight. They said they could straighten it out if i'd like, like hell i would! Then she says i'll have to pay for the alignment if they straighten the steering wheel! Seriously! You do half the job, make it worse in a sense, and want me to pay for you to fix what you changed?!?! So that was about a month ago, and i've been busy with a leaking windshield sense. Then yesterday i was driving out the garage only to find a big *** oil and transmission fluid spot on the cement! I knew about the transmission fluid (just the pan seal), but now i have the flipping oil leak! Ugh, this truck has been a piece of work. But of my list i'm a little over half way done, but there's still 12 more things to do, some aren't important, like the fuel sensor, but some are really important, like the leaking windshield or cowl, idk what, but it leaks like a bitch when it rains, i get puddles on my floor.
/rant
 
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 02:43 PM
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Fits 2-9/64 ball joint socket is what u need(assuming RWD is same as 4wd size) ... aslong as one of them is such your fine , make sure you get a 3/4 breaker and a 6 foot pipe to go on it LOL mine passenger side was worst, since it was 22 years old, drivers side was only year or so old...

Struts? aint no struts on these old things, just shocks and coil springs unless you got a hybrid setup someone built
 
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 08:44 PM
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I"m going to hope that a combination of PBlaster and my impact wrench will do the job, with a 3/4-1/2 adapter. If not, I guess I'll be buying a 3/4" breaker bar from Hazard Fraught.

RwP
 
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 09:15 PM
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I just re- read your original post...

their is a coil/shock setup with upper and lower control arm up front the 4wd had a torsion bar instead of a coil spring, all it really requires is unbolting the balljoint from the steering knuckle. its actually pretty easy to change just a pita to brake free, I just looke don my 91 2wd I assume the 95 aint no different .. ckick on view fullsize you will see... I also believe the lower balljoints are pressed in ... only uppers are screwed in... atleast on my 4x4, haven't touched the 2wd yet to know

Yes both 2wd and 4wd uppers thread in. Both 2wd and 4wd lowers press in.
(quoted from Crazy lol)

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ll-joints.html

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/...category=20868
 

Last edited by 92DakotaClub; Jun 11, 2014 at 09:21 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 10:08 PM
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Ok, yeah i meant front shocks, not struts
and according to my manual it says i have to take the shock out to do the lowers, but if i don't so be it, i'm going to take them out anyway to replace them lol, just while i'm there why not?
and thanks for the help guys
 
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 10:11 PM
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just unbolt the shock from the lower control arm.... shouldn't have to remove but don't quote me I haven't done a 2wd front end in a REAL long time.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 11:51 PM
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well my shocks are moderately bad, and i replaced the rears, they were practically dead flat, so i'd say the fronts have been replaced at least once, with 209k miles i'd hope so, so it's about time to replace them anyway.
 
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