We need an engine's section or something.

Anyway's I'm taking the '87 5th Ave 318 that I got for the Dakota apart to do some work and come to the point of removing the harmonic balancer. Only problem is that the crank bolt is seized up. I read that it's supposed to be easy to get out with an air impact wrench but none of mine would get it to budge. Any ideas to get it out? engine is sitting/strapped to a heavy duty dolly, and If I try to turn it with a breaker bar, I put so much force into it that I almost tip the whole thing over on its side. I'm stumped right now!...

 

Take into account mine is a 3./9 and was in the truck.

I rented a long handled breaker bar and with a socket on it I placed it at around 11:30-11:45ish and smacked it with a BFH. You have to hit it sharply, don't hesitate. It only took two tries and it broke free. Remember to use the correct puller for the balancer a regular one that pulls from the edges will destroy it.

 

sometimes i have put a torch to bolt heads, but if you get it red hot you may not want to use it again. the bolt might be a grade 8. and to much heat might damage the bolt. or might not iam not sure.

 

If you try to get it with a breaker bar, don't try alone. Tipping the engine over would be a catastrophe! Especially if it landed on your leg or foot. Don't use a torch--it may damage the crank and would ruin the balancer.

If your air impact is like most that home mechanics use, it isn't nearly high enough torque. The 'earthquake' line that Harbor Freight sells approaches Snapon or Ingersol Rand levels. I have one, and it's the best one I have had so far.

You don't need to buy or rent a longer breaker bar. Just use a cheater--a 3 foot length of pipe that fits over the breaker handle will do.

 

iam glad what Brian said about heat damage. i should have thought to say something about it. but in SOME places you can use heat. but think it throu first.

 

Hey, thanks for the suggestions so far guy's.

onemore94dak-Honestly I don't see that working out the best. I figure i'd just send the bar/socket flying and marring up the bolt head. Idk, mabey Ill give it a shot as a last resort, and try to watch out

I dont think torching wold be good if I am to reuse the balancer...
Yea Brian, I agree with ya about tipping this thing. At rouphly 570#'s it wouldnt feel good at all. I'll probably enlist the help of my dad sometime, to help hold things.

Yea, my 2 impacts are more so in the "Home Mechanics" catagory. How is using a high torque one? Will it want to rip your arm off or break your wrist??? I should be able to borrow one, from the junk yard across the street. Their alway's building derby cars and ****in' around, and one of the main guy's is a friend who I got the engine from for cheap$

Any more idea's y'all??

 

I suppose but as long as the socket is on tight it wouldn't mar the bolt head and the breaker will only fall to the floor or inside the engine bay.
The high Torque impact is doing essentially the same thing, a suddenly impact with great force, they usually have a clutch to avoid breaking your wrist.

 

personally, I too, would use the breaker bar with a hammer method. But I would set the bat at 8-9 o clock position. That way you are driving down. Someone can stabilize the motor while you hit it. Its not as bad as it seems.

 

If you were anywhere close, I'd loan you my Earthquake 1/2" drive air impact. It has enough torque to pull the bolt loose. Good air impacts don't tear your arm off, they work by hammering the bolt til it's loose. Of course, they're always on sale at Harbor Freight and cost somewhere between $80 & $90. If you do very much home mechanicking, you probably should spring for one. Makes life a lot easier.

If you can borrow an Ingersol Rand, Snapon, Matco, or some other expensive brand, you'll be able to safely get the bolt out.

 

This is when I wish I took more pictures of stuff like this...

The fastest way for disassembly would be to put a large wrench or breaker bar and socket on the crank bolt and hit it very hard and true with a piece of wood like a chunk 4"x4" to absorb the impact on the tool/crank and keep it from flying across the floor. One good hit will break it loose although it may take a couple tries.

However, this also leaves you with the issue of torquing that bolt back down to spec upon re-assembly. The last time I ran into this issue was a warranty job that I did "in vehicle" and couldn't afford to pull the radiator on to get an impact gun in there. I ground down a 1/2" ratchet extension so that it would fit in the inner casting holes on the vibration damper/harmonic balancer and used that to hold the crank in place until I torqued the bolt to spec. Obviously, you can easily use the same method to remove the crank bolt as well. Just be sure to use the inner part of the harmonic balancer and not the outer edge with the bolt holes for the crank pulley as it is very easy to separate the rubber joint between the 2.