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92 dakota RWAL

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Old Nov 25, 2014 | 10:01 PM
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Default 92 dakota RWAL

So I think my rear wheel anti lock valve might be leaking a little bit past the dump valve. At first I thought my master was bad, so I replaced it. Bled the brakes (also had to replace lines and wheel cylinders because of rust). And that improved things alot but if Im sitting at a stop light my pedal starts out firm, then after about 10 seconds it will slowly start to sink. I haven had a chance to plug off and double check master, but it is a new/rebuilt one. Also couldnt get the bleeder to move on the abs valve at the rear mounted on the frame. Anyone got any experience with these? Next chance I get Im going to try to get that bleeder to move and re bleed all the brakes in the correct order and see where that gets me. Also I am not loosing any fluid at all.

also heres a picture of it for ****s
 
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 12:25 AM
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Ok well about a week ago I bled the brakes more, and after letting penetrating oil sit on the bleeder for a week before, got the bleeder on the anti lock valve assembly to work. Bleeding it did not seem to help, but a couple days later the problem has gone away for now. So who knows.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 08:16 AM
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I love it when problems "fix" themselves. People say cars don't fix themselves, but just give them a chance...every once in a while some magic happens.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by tbugden
I love it when problems "fix" themselves. People say cars don't fix themselves, but just give them a chance...every once in a while some magic happens.
Haha IDK why but it came back today. Ill have to get one from a wrecker or some thing.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 03:25 PM
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Just to cover the bases - I assume you bench bled the master cylinder, right? My pedal was sinking at stoplights (pretty randomly) and it was the master cylinder. If that didn't work I was going to move on to the RWAL valve.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 05:50 PM
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Oh yeah good point on the bench bleeding the master. Sometimes it is nigh impossible to bleed a master cylinder on the car. Bench bleeding it is definitely the only way to go.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 06:35 PM
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I think you can get away without bench bleeding on some vehicles, but based on the amount of time it took to bleed mine I think it's definitely necessary with the Dakotas. I bought a remanufactured master cylinder and probably spent about 15 minutes getting brake fluid worked all the way through it. That doesn't sound like very long but it's really tedious.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by wjohn
Just to cover the bases - I assume you bench bled the master cylinder, right? My pedal was sinking at stoplights (pretty randomly) and it was the master cylinder. If that didn't work I was going to move on to the RWAL valve.
Well I never did bench bleed. Next time I have spare time Ill give that a shot.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 11:35 PM
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You mention replacing brake stuff because of rust, but from the pictures you posted in the other thread, your frame looks great!! I don't doubt the lines were rusted, but damn...that frame is clean.
 
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Old May 2, 2015 | 03:38 PM
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I fixed this issue a long time ago, but forgot to update thread.
The problem ended up being a defective master cylinder. I replaced the rebuilt one with a brand new one.
 
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