When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I think my rear wheel anti lock valve might be leaking a little bit past the dump valve. At first I thought my master was bad, so I replaced it. Bled the brakes (also had to replace lines and wheel cylinders because of rust). And that improved things alot but if Im sitting at a stop light my pedal starts out firm, then after about 10 seconds it will slowly start to sink. I haven had a chance to plug off and double check master, but it is a new/rebuilt one. Also couldnt get the bleeder to move on the abs valve at the rear mounted on the frame. Anyone got any experience with these? Next chance I get Im going to try to get that bleeder to move and re bleed all the brakes in the correct order and see where that gets me. Also I am not loosing any fluid at all.
Ok well about a week ago I bled the brakes more, and after letting penetrating oil sit on the bleeder for a week before, got the bleeder on the anti lock valve assembly to work. Bleeding it did not seem to help, but a couple days later the problem has gone away for now. So who knows.
I love it when problems "fix" themselves. People say cars don't fix themselves, but just give them a chance...every once in a while some magic happens.
I love it when problems "fix" themselves. People say cars don't fix themselves, but just give them a chance...every once in a while some magic happens.
Haha IDK why but it came back today. Ill have to get one from a wrecker or some thing.
Just to cover the bases - I assume you bench bled the master cylinder, right? My pedal was sinking at stoplights (pretty randomly) and it was the master cylinder. If that didn't work I was going to move on to the RWAL valve.
Oh yeah good point on the bench bleeding the master. Sometimes it is nigh impossible to bleed a master cylinder on the car. Bench bleeding it is definitely the only way to go.
I think you can get away without bench bleeding on some vehicles, but based on the amount of time it took to bleed mine I think it's definitely necessary with the Dakotas. I bought a remanufactured master cylinder and probably spent about 15 minutes getting brake fluid worked all the way through it. That doesn't sound like very long but it's really tedious.
Just to cover the bases - I assume you bench bled the master cylinder, right? My pedal was sinking at stoplights (pretty randomly) and it was the master cylinder. If that didn't work I was going to move on to the RWAL valve.
Well I never did bench bleed. Next time I have spare time Ill give that a shot.
You mention replacing brake stuff because of rust, but from the pictures you posted in the other thread, your frame looks great!! I don't doubt the lines were rusted, but damn...that frame is clean.
I fixed this issue a long time ago, but forgot to update thread.
The problem ended up being a defective master cylinder. I replaced the rebuilt one with a brand new one.