blower resistor values
#1
blower resistor values
Hello everyone,
I was wondering if anyone knew the resistor values for the blower motor resistor network... I have a '95 Dakota 4WD Ext. Cab with the Magnum V-8. If anyone can supply the values for the fan speed settings, or if you can point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it. My resistor network has corroded and has been temporarily fixed, but it won't last long since this is the second time I have had to do this. I am getting the parts together to make my own and instead of using the coiled wires like my old one has, I am crafting a whole new setup I can mount in the cab next to my fuse box with resistors. If anyone has an opinion on whether or not this is a good idea, please say so. It is difficult for me to get to it from inside the cab being a "sawed-off fireplug", or vertically-challenged and having to unscrew the assembly from the cab to access it. I am thinking this would be much easier and convenient. So far, I have pulled my fusebox under the hood to the same location I have my interior fusebox. In the future, I also plan to install an air-compressor made out of an air conditioner pump and an air tank for emergency and recreational purposes, as well as to show off. But that's a little while off since it's starting to get cold and I do not have access to a garage. Anyhoo, thanks in advance for info concerning my question.
I was wondering if anyone knew the resistor values for the blower motor resistor network... I have a '95 Dakota 4WD Ext. Cab with the Magnum V-8. If anyone can supply the values for the fan speed settings, or if you can point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it. My resistor network has corroded and has been temporarily fixed, but it won't last long since this is the second time I have had to do this. I am getting the parts together to make my own and instead of using the coiled wires like my old one has, I am crafting a whole new setup I can mount in the cab next to my fuse box with resistors. If anyone has an opinion on whether or not this is a good idea, please say so. It is difficult for me to get to it from inside the cab being a "sawed-off fireplug", or vertically-challenged and having to unscrew the assembly from the cab to access it. I am thinking this would be much easier and convenient. So far, I have pulled my fusebox under the hood to the same location I have my interior fusebox. In the future, I also plan to install an air-compressor made out of an air conditioner pump and an air tank for emergency and recreational purposes, as well as to show off. But that's a little while off since it's starting to get cold and I do not have access to a garage. Anyhoo, thanks in advance for info concerning my question.
#2
RE: blower resistor values
Resistor blocks are mounted in the heater box so that they can be cooled sufficiently. All the resistor does is burn off voltage to reduce it and this causes tremendous heat. The resistor blocks are not easy to fix by the normal person as the actual connections are crimped under high pressure, solder will not work on these joints properly. Junkyard resistors usually don't last long as a replacements either. From what I can tell a new resistor sells for $7.50 on the web. I would not circumvent the original resistor design as you may experience heat and voltage drop related issues, like a fire.
Just where are you getting the corrosion...on the electrical terminals that the wires plug on to?
Just where are you getting the corrosion...on the electrical terminals that the wires plug on to?
#4
RE: blower resistor values
Already thought of the heat issue though for the final assembly, I am pondering voltage regulators with attachable heat sinks, or just a plain resistor assembly with fan cooling. The reason I am bringing it inside it because of corrosion which I believe is being caused by it being in the engine compartment where there is great differences in temperature. The corrosion is on the terminals INSIDE the box. The coiled wires actually. Where they're connected to their respective terminals, especially the +12VDC line, the whole terminal connector is deteriorated and has oxidation on it. I have been lucky so far by taking the broken line end and reattaching it another open slot in the bar, but this will soon reach an end as I am sure that readjusting the length makes it more and more susceptible to future breakdowns, not to mention decreasing its voltage resistance value which could possibly reduce the life of my fan motor. Thanks for the input, I'll let you know what I come up with for the end result.