Drop in fan replacements
#1
#2
I don't think there IS a drop in electric fan for the 1993 3.9. The 4 banger fan fits a smaller radiator, so that's not a good first call.
Nearest would be to add the wiring and attach a Taurus or 1994-1997 Thunderbird fan, and that's going to take some work to fit. Plus you'll have to add all the wiring to run it.
Flex-A-Lite sells at least one model they claim is a direct fit, but with the lowest Ebay price being over $160 ...
Hayden has a few also that don't just bolt on, but are closer to $60 .
I'd also upgrade the alternator first, plus add the Big 3 Wiring Upgrade ( beefer ground from block to frame, beefer cable from block to negative on battery, beefier cable from battery to alternator) to make sure the electrical system can handle a beefy cooling fan there.
New 120A alternators can be had for down at $113 from RockAuto (!!), and are well worth it even if you keep the clutch fan.
RwP
Nearest would be to add the wiring and attach a Taurus or 1994-1997 Thunderbird fan, and that's going to take some work to fit. Plus you'll have to add all the wiring to run it.
Flex-A-Lite sells at least one model they claim is a direct fit, but with the lowest Ebay price being over $160 ...
Hayden has a few also that don't just bolt on, but are closer to $60 .
I'd also upgrade the alternator first, plus add the Big 3 Wiring Upgrade ( beefer ground from block to frame, beefer cable from block to negative on battery, beefier cable from battery to alternator) to make sure the electrical system can handle a beefy cooling fan there.
New 120A alternators can be had for down at $113 from RockAuto (!!), and are well worth it even if you keep the clutch fan.
RwP
#3
I second the vote for a Taurus fan. You can get a wiring kit for it at autozone, like this one, http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...at/326161_0_0/
I installed one on an s10 also with a Taurus fan and its been running great for years. set it and forget it pretty much since its automatic.
I installed one on an s10 also with a Taurus fan and its been running great for years. set it and forget it pretty much since its automatic.
#4
Easy one, I put a lincoln mark viii fan in my 93, as the clutch was shot on my old mechanical fan and it couldn't keep up plowing. The mark viii fan was a drop in, just made some quick mounts that hook the top of the rad like the stock shroud and some mounts down below that bolt into the sheetmetal surround on the rad with sheetmetal screws.
I wired it through a relay to a key on power source and a switch (so I could turn it off when needed). It draws a lot of power, so I decided instead of leaving it on constantly or trusting myself to turn it on and off, I picked up a $20 fan controller from advance and wred it in paralell to the switch in the cab.
Now the fan will come on by itself when the controller fires it, or I can turn it on manually any time if I feel like it.
I can get pics and a quick wiring schematic if you want.
I wired it through a relay to a key on power source and a switch (so I could turn it off when needed). It draws a lot of power, so I decided instead of leaving it on constantly or trusting myself to turn it on and off, I picked up a $20 fan controller from advance and wred it in paralell to the switch in the cab.
Now the fan will come on by itself when the controller fires it, or I can turn it on manually any time if I feel like it.
I can get pics and a quick wiring schematic if you want.
#5
#7
I run an 80 amp relay on it, and I can say it does draw a ton of power, something like 40-50amp constant draw on high.
Drawing a diagram is a bit hard it seems on the computer, I tried. So here's what I did in order.
Trigger side of relay: Tap a key-on-power fuse in fuse panel, run power to a switch in the cab, then out to trigger side of relay in engine bay, then out of relay to ground.
On the load side of the relay I went from battery + to relay, out of relay into fan, fan to ground.
To add the thermostatic controller in parallel, I ran from the same key-on-power source on the fuse block straight out to the controller in side, then controller out into relay trigger in (2 wires are now on the trigger into relay, one from the switch, one from thermostat controller), from there the wiring is shared with the switch into ground on the out side of the relay. High load side remains the same and is shared on both circuits.
BE SURE TO FUSE EVERYTHING
Drawing a diagram is a bit hard it seems on the computer, I tried. So here's what I did in order.
Trigger side of relay: Tap a key-on-power fuse in fuse panel, run power to a switch in the cab, then out to trigger side of relay in engine bay, then out of relay to ground.
On the load side of the relay I went from battery + to relay, out of relay into fan, fan to ground.
To add the thermostatic controller in parallel, I ran from the same key-on-power source on the fuse block straight out to the controller in side, then controller out into relay trigger in (2 wires are now on the trigger into relay, one from the switch, one from thermostat controller), from there the wiring is shared with the switch into ground on the out side of the relay. High load side remains the same and is shared on both circuits.
BE SURE TO FUSE EVERYTHING