ECU "learn" time
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All Star
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 752
Likes: 2
From: Southeastern Virginia
Ragged, if you want to send me a pm or e-mail. I would like to talk to you about my autoxray 500. I think it would really help you in diagnosing sensors etc.
For my next statement, I may get flamed, but I wouldn't think of trying to modify the programming tables on a mopar.
In short, there is tons more information out there concerning tuning a obd1 GM and for me its mind boggling.
There are so many things such as a coolant sensor not sending the proprer signal to the ecm that could cause it to run rich etc.
Look up autoxray 500 and if you are interested let me know.
In short, with a stock cam, injectors, CID and compression, you should not need a new tune.
Oh, and my comment on a wide band was ment with a guage to determine if you are running rich or lean.
For my next statement, I may get flamed, but I wouldn't think of trying to modify the programming tables on a mopar.
In short, there is tons more information out there concerning tuning a obd1 GM and for me its mind boggling.
There are so many things such as a coolant sensor not sending the proprer signal to the ecm that could cause it to run rich etc.
Look up autoxray 500 and if you are interested let me know.
In short, with a stock cam, injectors, CID and compression, you should not need a new tune.
Oh, and my comment on a wide band was ment with a guage to determine if you are running rich or lean.
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All Star
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Southeastern Virginia
Update. Slow to get back (story of my life here), but I've tried a few things to see if I can improve the performance of this thing. I installed a new O2 sensor, checked my fuel pressure (about 42 psi if my gauge is correct), and fixed the leaks in my "thrown-together-can't-wait-any-longer" exhaust system.
Truck still starts and idles perfectly, never misses a beat. Acceleration is smooth, but not as quick as I think it should be - like its holding back. The popping and burbling in the exhaust is less now, but still there. With a 3" exhaust, hi-flow cat, and Hush Thrush muffler this thing gets really loud when you step on it, but its more noise than go; at least by the seat of the pants test. I had a '95 Ram 1500 with this motor and despite being a 1000 pounds heavier, I think it moved faster.
Tonight I put my other ECU/ECM in for the first time. Haven't been able to test it yet because of the rain. This is a convertible truck and I currently have no top (its a roadster, haha!).
Truck still starts and idles perfectly, never misses a beat. Acceleration is smooth, but not as quick as I think it should be - like its holding back. The popping and burbling in the exhaust is less now, but still there. With a 3" exhaust, hi-flow cat, and Hush Thrush muffler this thing gets really loud when you step on it, but its more noise than go; at least by the seat of the pants test. I had a '95 Ram 1500 with this motor and despite being a 1000 pounds heavier, I think it moved faster.
Tonight I put my other ECU/ECM in for the first time. Haven't been able to test it yet because of the rain. This is a convertible truck and I currently have no top (its a roadster, haha!).
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Joined: Sep 2013
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I'm not sure if this is off topic delete it if you think it is. I have been having gains and losses in my performance. This last week I removed the battery for over an hour so I could get at the pulleys to sand all the grooves clean. Since I have put the battery back in it performs a lot better especially when I punch it yet somehow at slow speeds it feels like its wasting gas and not giving me the power it should almost as if the valves aren't working and the sync is off!? I had the sync set at +1 as I could not get 0 and the heads look really tight when I pulled the valve cover. BTW when I got the best mileage before I set the sync it was at -6 and more as it idled. It must be electrical, possibly the ECU, maybe the dist. How does one distinguish which or if its multiple sources?
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All Star
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Southeastern Virginia
it feels like its wasting gas and not giving me the power it should almost as if the valves aren't working and the sync is off!? I had the sync set at +1 as I could not get 0 and the heads look really tight when I pulled the valve cover. BTW when I got the best mileage before I set the sync it was at -6 and more as it idled. It must be electrical, possibly the ECU, maybe the dist.
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Joined: Sep 2013
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I took the valve cover off and felt the rockers, nothing moved as I tried to move it by hand. That is what I am referring to when I say the heads look tight. I'm probably showing my **** here. 
It was all very clean and no carbon deposits at all and had metal marker dots like salvage yards do to pulled items which I suspect means they were rebuilt or replaced at some point before I owned it.
The sync is the fuel synchronization setting set with a scanner and by turning the dist. It controls when the injectors fire in the cycle.
It was all very clean and no carbon deposits at all and had metal marker dots like salvage yards do to pulled items which I suspect means they were rebuilt or replaced at some point before I owned it. The sync is the fuel synchronization setting set with a scanner and by turning the dist. It controls when the injectors fire in the cycle.
Last edited by onemore94dak; Jun 24, 2016 at 08:43 PM.