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EGR code

Old Jul 9, 2016 | 11:10 PM
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Default EGR code

I had an EGR code the other day. I took it off and cleaned it today. I drove a bit and it actually seemed better, less of the feeling that air was leaking in or out where it shouldn't. Tonight as I made a round trip to Malwarts the check engine light came on again, (at about the same place on the same street as last time!) and it is an EGR code. I'm pretty sure this means a new EGR. Is there anything else I should look for when I replace it? BTW this EGR was the first new part I put on this rig about 20 months ago. I don't think they are supposed to go this fast. I did do a lot of work, the plenum was bad and exhaust manifold leaked.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 11:35 PM
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Before you replace the VALVE, be sure to clean the PASSAGES.

Typically the passages will plug up before the valve fails.

Also, check your vacuum lines - if there's a cracked one, it won't work properly.

RwP
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 09:11 AM
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I didn't insert anything into it. I brushed off all the carbon outside it and I filled it up with carb cleaner and let it soak. Air blew through it. and the solenoid two holes let air through and one seems to hit a diaphragm. I sprayed around the top of the motor with the carb cleaner as it idled to look for any sucking leaks. IDK how to find a leak that is letting air out. I did however use a cheap vacuum gauge according to a test some Eric guy posted on another site and it passed that test last year.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 12:49 PM
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I just hooked up the MT2500. It said: code 32 EGR system failure F/A There was no way to erase the code. I tried an EGR test in the functional tests section ATM (motor off) it clicked on and off as it was supposed to for 5 minutes. Then I did a system test motor running and it let me alternate between normal, flow and block. There seemed to be a small lowering of rpm when blocked. It also showed "no codes available in this mode" Is there a way to tell if this is just a transducer problem?
 
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Old Jul 16, 2016 | 05:52 PM
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Unable to find any other solution I got a new EGR from Rock Auto $20 less than local with delivery!
I installed it and disconnected the battery to wipe the code. It seems more responsive now.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 10:26 PM
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I need some ideas. I just got another check engine light and it is code 32 again.

I got this in September 2014 and it had a 32 code. I replaced the EGR. It has given no codes until I made the first post in this thread. Now its less than a month since I installed a new one and I have another.

What causes these things to go bad? How can I detect if the EGR itself is bad or if it is something else causing the code to set? The only test I know is what I described with the MT2500.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 10:28 PM
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Clean all the EGR passages.

Install a new Mopar EGR valve.

Cuss at it a lot.

RwP
 
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Old Aug 18, 2016 | 03:35 AM
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Delete the egr. Its not needed.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2016 | 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Toby Warford
Delete the egr. Its not needed.
Whereas it's not NEEDED, at cruise (note: I do about 40,000 miles a year) it does help the gas mileage.

Also, without it, you will get EGR codes (like the OP is getting now); and if you're in some place they actually check that (don't think so on the SMEC/SBEC generation, but eh, IANAL etc.) then you'll need it working to pass emissions testing to get the registration.

RwP
 
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Old Aug 25, 2016 | 01:59 PM
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I haven't done anything to it. I have noticed a difference in performance(less) and the fuel gauge is going down faster.
 
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