Agreed. I myself would really like to hear the reasoning behind this as well.

 

I installed the walker Y CAT and exhaust kit from Rock Auto and it is not only perfect fit it is larger bore pipe from the Y back than the OE on my 94 which I think is the first year Dodge narrowed the diameter of the exhaust from the Y back. Anyway it seems like I got a couple more ponies out of it rather than lost anything. I was always taught to think of the motor as a giant air pump, more air flow = more power. IDk how a larger exhaust could affect the trans.

 

Ok guys I finally got a chance to check the cat. It was burned the hell out so I replaced it. It helped the lack of power but the shifts still feel late and rough. It feels like driving a manual without the clutch if that makes sense. Meaning when the rpms get high if I let off the gas it will then shift most of the time. To answer some questions yes there is a 3" glass pack on it. Not my choice the previous owner honestly did a number on the poor truck and I've been trying to fix it. And sw on yea when it gets to highway speeds or really a speed when it doesnt need to shift anymore it seems fine. One more thing I should mention when I stop after going about 45 or 50. It jerks like it doesn't want to downshift. A couple times that's even cause me to stall. So any things this might bring to mind would help me out thanks agian.

 

You need to check your kickdown linkage adjustment. It's probably slipped. Most think the kickdown is for dropping the tranny into low gear when punching it in 4th gear. But it's the equivalent of a vacuum modulator on the GM/Ford transmissions, meaning that the tranny uses the kickdown linkage in combination with engine RPM to adjust the shift. So what's happening when you let off the throttle you are dropping the kickdown linkage which moves based on throttle position and that's allowing the shift. It's misadjusted so that less than WOT throttle is giving a WOT position to the tranny and it's keeping it in lower gear.

If you google 727 kickdown adjustment there are tons of links and videos on how to adjust.

 

Again, your exhaust has absolutely NO correlation with the transmission issue. Something else to look at and it cheap to do is the speed sensor aside from the aforementioned kicked down cable.

The speed sensor is k. The drivers side, tailshaft at a 45* angle point down. Either wipe it off or replace it. Takes 4 seconds to replace. Need a one inch wrench or vice grips. Some transmission fluid will come out but only a few drops. But I don't think that's your problem.

 

Thanks guys I'll check these out I'll post back when I have something.

 

Honestly... For testing purposes and to save mpg I'd recommend going back to the factory muffler. Its $52 at Oreilly and welds/clamps in directly. Yes it could be other issues but why not let the repairs back to stock help isolate the issue? Mine was doing the EXACT same thing. It'd shimmy and fight till 3rd and would be fine until it dropped back to 35mph then restart the whole process. I know of 6 other people that had similar issues. In their cases it was the TC or exhaust related. Dunno why, but when they put a performance setup with the proper backpressure they worked fine.

 

Stop giving bad advice. You are full of ****. The muffler has no effect on the transmission for the third time. Get lost.

 

Says the guy with the "Rookie" tag...

 

Shows your ignorance even more. The rookie tag has absolutely no bearing on knowledge. And its obvious you don't know your *** from a hole in the ground. Please don't ever give advice to anyone here ever again. Others won't always be able to correct your stupidity