http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/d...DAKOTA+3.9L+V6
Use the link and choose Interior then select Door Panel. $181.79 for one
The accessories kit is actually $258.79 + shipping
As far as I can tell it is exactly the same product.

 

Well, the Door Panel is "per pair", not each. So one package of two for $181.79 .

The two door panels and the dash overlay are $258.79 .

Dash itself is $110.79 .

The extra of buying the dash overlay and the panels separate, instead of as a bundle, is due to three items, I bet - 1) Reduced packaging. 2) Reduced shipping charges. 3) A bundle discount.

If you need all three, get the bundle of all three. If you only need the overlay or the panels, get them instead. *grins*

Edit: I'll add that they probably color match better bought as a bundle, but no guarantee. That is, more likely it's the same batch of plastic being used if bought in one package.

RwP

 

My '93 has the mirror adjusters inside the cab, so the door cards have a hole in them for the adjuster cables to come through; then the adjuster is secured with a metal plate. Those panels, if the picture is accurate, will not work with my truck, and I assume probably not with a '94. Looks like the panels off the older ones with the mirrors that you adjusted from outside.

 

Umm ... That's what drills are for, innit?

That's what I did when I refit the non-remote manual door panels to the manual remote truck I have; just drill out the one hole I needed to fit the interior cover.

RwP

 

I figured I was missing something on the panels Ralph. They are the same as I have tbugden.
Does anyone know how to get that dam nut off the outside door handle. I hope this pic comes up when I post the link. That is not my truck in the pic but it is the same as. I can't get it to budge. Edit- I just sprayed it with liquid wrench.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...d32396e14202o0

 

Well easy enough to modify sure but just saying they don't work as is. To modify it so it's like the original you need a dremel and a cutoff wheel. Only reason I like the opening on the original is because I can remove the mirror without taking the door panel off. I like keeping factory shortcuts, lol...

 

That is a pain in the fricken *** to get off. It's not super tight but tight enough and you have basically no room to manipulate a wrench. Wish I could give you an easier solution but I just use channel locks, the smaller the better. It is regular threaded. Once you loosen it a little you'll be able to use your hands to back it all the way out, but it takes a while.

 

EDIT- IF YOU ARE GOING TO DO IT START EARLY IN THE DAY IF YOU ARE OUTSIDE YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT MIGHT HANG YOU UP AND FORCE YOU SPEND A LOT MORE TIME THAN YOU THOUGHT. THE FIRST ONE TOOK ME 5+ HOURS THE SECOND ONLY 3.

HA! For me it was the big 440's that worked. I think the liquid wrench helped.
OTAY I got her done.
I have manual hand cranks IDK how much of this applies to elec windows.
What I learned. The channel is a huge pain. Make sure you have good lighting. A garage with overhead lights would be best I was outside and it was a pain even with a trouble light. After removing the panel. What you have to do is remove the whole plastic liner, try to save it. If you can't get some good heavy plastic and glue it on when you are done. Then crank the window down and remove the 4 bolts around the crank.10mm It will come out of the window slot if you move it toward the latch side then take it out the big hole. Now you can move the window. If you are going to do the handle do it now I waited and regret it.
Take the two screws out of the latch side inside the channel. They are hard to see one is near the top one near the bottom edge of window opening. If you drop anything there is a hole in the bottom of the door, put tape over it to catch stuff. Don't leave the tape there it is an important drain.
Be careful this aluminum track has pointy bits poking out the back, I look like a cat went crazy on me. EDIT-THE TRACK IS CURVED AND VERY EASY TO BEND TRY TO BE PATIENT AND ONLY PULL UP NOT TOWARD YOU. If you feel like it at the bottom of this track there is a stop for the window, you can remove it with the two sheet metal screws in the bottom corner of the door. It drops off the bottom of the track and is easy to take out. It will give you more wiggle room.
Take the old channel seal out. Start from the front of the door take out the track last. Put the track in first. Get the track wrapped in the new glass channel materiel. there are holes for where the screws go. You can try to poke the points back through the new one (I suppose this makes it easier) I was losing light and angry from being cut so many time so I just flattened them. start at the top corner get the lips over where they go and make sure the channel is set all the way in. once you have that side in at the top corner for 8-10 inches get the top screw in the alum channel.
Then slowly work the glass channel down that side get the second screw in and set the track bottom bracket back in. OH yea there are two plastic track guides on the window. they snap on. I lightly coated them with vaseline I also sanded the track and coated it. I used a 6 inch block of 2x4 to hold the window up off the bottom enough to set the bottom track bracket and keep the window track guides in the track.
work the glass channel across the top and down the other side. Don't freak out the cuts for where it meets the window base on the other side may not be in the right spot just push the channel down and make sure it goes over the window and that the window is in the track on this side. You can fix the cuts with a new blade in your razor knife. I found the new glass channel slide down easily as held the window up and pulled from under it. Then I made sure it was all the way in and set the beltline. and put everyting back together. Did I forget to mention taking off the beltline? You do that right after your remove the crank.
I painted the mirror. Cleaned it, Sanded it with 220, primed sanded 220, primed twice more then two or three coats of paint and two coats of matt clear coat. I added a pic of the driver side for comparison.

EDIT- I just did the driver side. This time instead of trying to pull the water dam off I cut it inside the glue line. It was much easier to tape it back up with duct tape. Its much neater looking. You can poke holes through the spots for the beltline or just move the plastic a bit.
This did not go as the passenger side did. For some reason the crank would not come out of the track when I undid the 4 bolts. I had to remove the glass track bottom stop on the latch side and then pull it (the window track) all the way out to get the window free. There is another bolt for the track at the front of the window which will give play too. Handle went easily. Track and glass channel went back in much easier than last time and I used the pointy bits that cut my hands so bad on the other side.
I had a chip in the felt on the passenger side after I got it installed. I emailed precision to see if they would replace it. Hate to do all that work and then have a crap channel. I'll update when they respond probably tuesday the 6th.

 

for the handle undo the big nut first. On the lock set in the handle. You can remove the clip holding it in place (after the big nut is off the handle will poke out the outside) and take the lock set out inside the door then it will come off the lock rod This way you don;t have to worry about the C clip and then put it back into the slot of your new handle or if you want to paint the ones you have. The latch rod comes off easier from the outside. I removed the plastic clip from it on the new handle and put it on the rod then inserted it into the hole where it goes in the handle once I had it in place with pretty hard pressure and a flat head screwdriver. EDIT- I PUSHED THE LATCH ROD WITH THE SCREW DRIVER INSIDE THE DOOR. The big nut will tighten (once you get it started rasa frasin fricka frackin(*&^!%) with a screw driver. You'll see once you get it out it is made just right for it.

 

Looks good bud. Thanks for the write-up on the channel seals. I probably shoulda done mine while I did the beltline seals but didn't really want to drop the coin at the time. Also it seemed a little intimidating to be honest...nice to confirm it's possible.