Someone recently asked me about manually setting fuel sync
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Champion
Joined: Sep 2013
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Someone recently asked me about manually setting fuel sync
I just found this saved on my desktop and it has a link to a 2nd Gen page on this forum. It describes a manual process for getting the fuel sync right without any electronic tools. It's worth clicking the link and reading the rest of that thread to see how some others have self done with the process.
The post as copied;
Remove negative battery cable. Pull the drivers side valve cover. Remove the distributor cap, but not the rotor. Remove all wires from the cap. Determine which terminal on the cap is number 1, and mark it CLEARLY, if it's a black cap with yellow paint, just something bright you can see well. Then, turn the engine so that BOTH valves are closed on number one cylinder, this is why I had you remove the valve cover. Once they both look closed, align the timing marks on the harmonic balancer so that the engine sits at TDC. Oh, remove all spark plugs before attempting to turn the engine around by hand. Use a 1.25" socket on a breaker bar, should turn the engine. Make sure the tranny is in neutral as well. Once the timing marks are lined up, go back now, and loosen the distributor hold down clamp. Turn the distributor so that the ROTOR lines up with the number 1 terminal you just marked on the cap. Don't rush it, you can get it basically perfect, and remember, the cap will fit on ONLY ONE WAY, so make sure it is lined up as if it were to go on. Once the rotor is lined up with no1 terminal, then TIGHTEN the distributor hold down clamp WELL. It uses a 1/2" wrench, you can fit a hand down there after you remove the air cleaner, as well as a box wrench or something like that, rachet won't fit, and if it does won't tighten it good enough. Then replace the cap, and all the spark plugs and spark plug wires. DO NOT HOOK UP THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE YET! Next, put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "Run" position for 30 seconds, then the to the "start" position for 30 seconds, then back to run for 30 more seconds. Once that is done turn the key to the "Lock" position. Then hook up the negative battery cable, start it up. If you were careful and did it slowly, the fuel sync will be about 0 now, and should be okay to run now, as long as the catalytic converter is either gone or is not clogged. That is the proper way to set it without a scantool. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-tuning-4.html
The post as copied;
Remove negative battery cable. Pull the drivers side valve cover. Remove the distributor cap, but not the rotor. Remove all wires from the cap. Determine which terminal on the cap is number 1, and mark it CLEARLY, if it's a black cap with yellow paint, just something bright you can see well. Then, turn the engine so that BOTH valves are closed on number one cylinder, this is why I had you remove the valve cover. Once they both look closed, align the timing marks on the harmonic balancer so that the engine sits at TDC. Oh, remove all spark plugs before attempting to turn the engine around by hand. Use a 1.25" socket on a breaker bar, should turn the engine. Make sure the tranny is in neutral as well. Once the timing marks are lined up, go back now, and loosen the distributor hold down clamp. Turn the distributor so that the ROTOR lines up with the number 1 terminal you just marked on the cap. Don't rush it, you can get it basically perfect, and remember, the cap will fit on ONLY ONE WAY, so make sure it is lined up as if it were to go on. Once the rotor is lined up with no1 terminal, then TIGHTEN the distributor hold down clamp WELL. It uses a 1/2" wrench, you can fit a hand down there after you remove the air cleaner, as well as a box wrench or something like that, rachet won't fit, and if it does won't tighten it good enough. Then replace the cap, and all the spark plugs and spark plug wires. DO NOT HOOK UP THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE YET! Next, put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "Run" position for 30 seconds, then the to the "start" position for 30 seconds, then back to run for 30 more seconds. Once that is done turn the key to the "Lock" position. Then hook up the negative battery cable, start it up. If you were careful and did it slowly, the fuel sync will be about 0 now, and should be okay to run now, as long as the catalytic converter is either gone or is not clogged. That is the proper way to set it without a scantool. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-tuning-4.html
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Arlington,Texas
Manual Fuel sync
I PMed One more 94 Dakota and this is the one I wanted. I am going to cut the top off an old distributor cap so I can be more accurate in getting the distributor lined up.I had a rough time knowing just where it was pointing. Thanks for the help.