I reset fuel sync for a friend of mine using a OTC tool, and yes it was OBD1, i used the "Master Reset" option. Call some independent shops and ask them if they can do that.

To set the fuel sync, here's how:

Remove negative battery cab;e

Pull the drivers side valve cover. Remove the distributor cap, but not the rotor. Remove all wires from the cap. Determine which terminal on the cap is number 1, and mark it CLEARLY, if it's a black cap with yellow paint, just something bright you can see well. Then, turn the engine so that BOTH valves are closed on number one cylinder, this is why I had you remove the valve cover. Once they both look closed, align the timing marks on the harmonic balancer so that the engine sits at TDC. Oh, remove all spark plugs before attempting to turn the engine around by hand. Use a 1.25" socket on a breaker bar, should turn the engine. Make sure the tranny is in neutral as well. Once the timing marks are lined up, go back now, and loosen the distributor hold down clamp. Turn the distributor so that the ROTOR lines up with the number 1 terminal you just marked on the cap. Don't rush it, you can get it basically perfect, and remember, the cap will fit on ONLY ONE WAY, so make sure it is lined up as if it were to go on. Once the rotor is lined up with no1 terminal, then TIGHTEN the distributor hold down clamp WELL. It uses a 1/2" wrench, you can fit a hand down there after you remove the air cleaner, as well as a box wrench or something like that, rachet won't fit, and if it does won't tighten it good enough. Then replace the cap, and all the spark plugs and spark plug wires. DO NO HOOK UP THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE YET! Next, put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "Run" position for 30 seconds, then the to the "start" position for 30 seconds, then back to run for 30 more seconds. Once that is done turn the key to the "Lock" position. Then hook up the negative battery cable, start it up. If you were careful and did it slowly, the fuel sync will be about 0 now, and should be okay to run now, as long as the catalytic converter is either gone or is not clogged. That is the proper way to set it without a scantool.

 

I don't have a cat I put a jegs y-pipe on it. Thanks I will try this method here. I have a problem getting my fat head lined up to see behind the intake and make sure the rotor is lined up with the mark on the cam sensor but I will do it trying to line it up with the electrode on the cap.

 

Update: I did just as beginning jockey said step by step other than pulling the valve cover. I made sure I was at top dead center on my compression stroke, then pulled the wires then the cap and I turned the dizzy and lined the rotor up as close as an eyeball can with the dead center of the number one electrode on the cap. I tightened the dizzy then double checked my cap with the rotor again. Everything was lined up perfect. I replaced the wires then BEFORE connecting my negative cable I did the sequence with the ignition switch turning the key to "run" for 30 sec. to "crank" for 30 sec then back to "run" for 30 sec then off. I noticed a difference as soon as I cranked it. It idles great other than the occasional drop after revving I think it is the IAC trying to over compensate for the lack of vacuum at idle and the rougher idle due to the 112 LSA on my cam. As far as power I notice a gain from idle to 5000 rpms. Without tunability in my truck the timing is way off from what this cam in particular needs to function its best. So with the only option I have being the mopar computer merc suggested I am going to purchase me one as soon a I recover some funding from this camshaft endeavor. I have no pinging issues now and always run premium fuel in my truck so that's not going to be an issue. But if anyone is looking at installing a cam in a 318 I would highly recommend this one for towing. I hooked my boat up and pulled it a couple of miles just for comparison and I cannot even tell it is back there. The 285's are still a little tall for the gearing and smaller engine with overdrive but I believe after tax season 2014 the 4.10s will remedy that situation.

 

did you use any scanner while doing this part? or literally just do like you said? i dont see how it would change the fuel sync....

 

It works, I've walked several guys through it.

What we do, is we reset the PCM through the 30/30/30 reset procedure, then it thinks fuel sync is at 0, and before we provide power to the PCM, we set the dizzy to 0 on TDC of no1 compression, so everything is at the location the PCM thinks it is, that's how the sync can be set that way.

 

Well get you close enough for the engine to run decently at least. Keep in mind, sync only has a tolerance value of around +/- 7 degrees.....

 

well here is my problem i have been chasing for awhile. i developed a single pop from the intake when under a load such as going up a hill. then it turned into a couple pops.... and so on so i did a full tune up, and still did it, replace the o2 sensor, still did it.

So far i replaced...
plugs
wires
cap
rotor
o2 sensor
coolant temp sensor
TPS
IAC
check the fuel pressure which for a ramcharger i was told it was like 35 or something cant remember but i called it good, it was steady and didnt jump.
compression test was good.
so i changed the timing chain, it was sloppy...
and after all this i still have the problem. so i dunno what to do now.
i did the above stated reset and everything seemed to line up and it fired right up and died a sec or 2 later, so i cranked it again and it fired right up and ran fine, idle and all that just fine. i drove it maybe a mile and then with the flick of a switch it was sputtering and all that like crazy and died on me. i checked if the dizzy hold down bolt was loose or it moved on me and it was all still tight. so in order to get it to run and idle again, i had to turn the dizzy to change the fuel timing, i rotated it clockwise and it run fine now without dying, but i have not tested it on hills. it hates hills when in overdrive with low rpms under load. i need a timing light im not so sure if the ignition timing is off... but im bout ready to just take it to a damn mechanic. its not like i cant drive it or still go wheeling that part is fine, its just when runnin 65-70 and u get goin up a hill with those low rpms, it hates it and will pop at you till you get it back into some higher rpms.

 

You sure you got your timing chain on right? Are you VERY sure?

 

Crank sensor.

 

i replaced the crank sensor too!
as far as the timing chain goes, i have been wondering if it wasnt off a little, but i need to go borrow a light so i can check it.

so basically here is what i have narrowed it down too
either the timing chain is off or the camshaft position sensor. i never changed it... but other than that i dunno wtf is going on.