I'm currently running a 31 x 10.5 r15. I have re indexed torsion keys with an added leaf and will be doing a 2" body lift. I'm looking to go with a 33" tire. How wide can I go without rubbing when I turn? I also have 2nd gen wheels on the truck now. I'm not sure if the back spacing is different on those. I did have to use a newer caliper with these that recessed the brake lines more. Also what speedometer gear would match this size tire with 3.55 gear ratio?

 

You know they make 33x10.50 tires right? Wider tires aren't worth it. Skinner is better. Smaller foot print, less rotating mass, etc etc.

 

I can get a deal on a set of 33 x 12.5 right now. But if they rub without wheel spacers I don't think I want them.

 

Had a nice weekend and finally got my body lift done and 33 x 12.5 mounted. Turned out great thanks to 92dakotaclub for letting me know how to fit these on.

 

good looking truck. Any tips for the body lift? Did you use a jack or lift? Did you soak the body bolts or just hit it with an impact?

 

yea I still lurk around ... haha nice truck brother.. glad you got setup how you wanted

all I gotta say is buff them headlights ... yellow .. argh.. lol

idea on the body bolts.. pending were you are .. even when I did mine only issue I had was with the front rad support bolts... rest I actually used a cracker bar and slowly worked them out.. and that was 22 years in Canadian more then mcdonalds fries salt winters..

 

I know tis older post.. but skinnier isn't always better hahaha ..


I had 33X14.5 boggers but I used mine in the trail, and I went places jeep with puny 12.5 wides got stuck in ruts .. haha

I will say this tho, that truck with the 5.2 and stock gearing still had more then enough power to light them tires up on a nice summer day .. fuel eco.. meh who builds and offroad vehicle for fuel eco :P

then I got the convertible bug and bought a jeep... haha

 

I used a jack and a few pieces of 2x4. I didn't have problems with the main body bolts I had them out when I did all the body work before to rebuild the front cab mounts. I soaked them with a little penetrating oil and they came out fine when I did that. As for the front radiator mounts I couldn't get those ones. The nut started turning on me so I cut the bolts at the cab bushings with a sawzall ( I was replacing the bushings also so cutting through the old ones was not a concern for me.) And then I used an air chisel to brake away the metal that held the nut on the driver's side ( I did this with the battery tray still installed) and on the passenger side I used the sawzall to do the same thing then I just used regular nuts and washers to put it back together. The only other issue I had was the 4 wheel drive shifter rubbing on the trim ring while I drove so I made an adapter for that. Also relocating the from bumper took almost as much time as the whole lift. Im not sure what the other guys do but I removed the part that holds the nuts in place milled new slots down 2 inches and spot welded the the nut bracket back into place. You can probably do the slots by drilling to holes and cleaning up between the 2 of them if you do not have access to a mill. All that said it wasn't very difficult and took about 8 hours or so.

 

Haha. Funny you mentioned the headlights. Just ordered a new set after I pulled the truck out of storage ( I stopped driving it in the winter after I painted it. She was pretty crispy). Forgot how bad they were.

 

https://www.heavydutystore.com/Faste...Couplings.html

i used one of these and a short piece of threaded rod.. the same size of course and remounted shifter higher, worked great..

link is example for picture.. cant remember the size lol


bumper i just drilled holes lower in main bracket at frame.. rear did much the same to raise it abit, then got my exhaust modified to go higher as it looks funny sitting down low haha and minor othe rlittle things.. auto gear shifter extended etc.. all welded and done myself really not hard with a decent mig..