318 swap wiring
#11
how did you get your pins? I have been looking for 2 weeks on where to find these damn things. No local junkyards seem to have any donor harnesses I could snag some off of. This is basically all I have left on my 360 swap and none of the forums say anything about it other than "simply wire your injectors into v6 harness" I just need pins for #17 & #18 and I'll be done. Lol
I took mine off a early 90's dodge caravan.
#12
#13
Well, I went through and eliminated every circuit that went through the ECM. So you first have to decide if you're okay with losing or modifying (at least computer controlled):
AC
Cruise Control
Lockup/Overdrive
Tachometer
O2 sensor
Fuel management (TPS, Injectors, Fuel Pump etc)
Ignition Coil
Emissions (Fuel Vent)
So, each of the following has a solution:
AC - I personally did away with it, but you could hardwire the low pressure switch and compressor relay outside of the ECM.
Cruise Control - I did away with it...this eliminated the speed sensor use in the tail of the transmission and the CC motor control stuff.
Lockup/Overdrive - Rewired this to a Vacuum Switch and PATC pressure switches for the overdrive and lockup. I repurposed the AC relay and rewired it to the Overdrive bypass switch in the cab to retain that function.
Tachometer - Bought a TachAdapt module that allows me to convert the tach signal from my new HEI distributor to what's needed for the stock gauge. You could also use your own gauge straight off the HEI.
O2 - don't need it with carb
Fuel Management - All this goes away with the Carb. I kept the tank fuel pump and sender unit since it's a return style system instead of using a mechanical pump. Just put a Holley bypass fuel regulator on it to reduce the PSI to the carb and you're all set. You will need to rewire the ADS relay ground to ground instead of ECM controlled.
Ignition Coil - Kept the old + wire as the input to the new HEI distributor. Negative wire deleted.
Emissions - I kept the Charcoal purge cannister and use an electric/vacuum switch for the purge signal. I fire the switch with the same vacuum switch used for overdrive/lockup, just the opposite state. Under Vaccum (normal running), the vacuum switch provides 12V to the solenoids for lockup and overdrive with the separate pressure switches providing ground. Under low vacuum (WOT), I lose the overdrive and lockup but gain 12V to the charcoal purge switch. You lose the engine diagnostic connector, engine check light and emissions light but I didn't need them going carb.
I took the harness out onto a kitchen table, and using the FSM identified all of the above ahead of time. I started removing wires. By removing the ECM, all but three wires leave the big engine harness connector (Oil PSI and Water Temp), so I just respliced those and got rid of the engine connector too. I added in the circuits for the tach conversion, lockup/overddrive, charcoal purge, and electric fan (I did a 360 swap). I'm actually installing it all this week so I'll let you know how it goes, but so far so good.
AC
Cruise Control
Lockup/Overdrive
Tachometer
O2 sensor
Fuel management (TPS, Injectors, Fuel Pump etc)
Ignition Coil
Emissions (Fuel Vent)
So, each of the following has a solution:
AC - I personally did away with it, but you could hardwire the low pressure switch and compressor relay outside of the ECM.
Cruise Control - I did away with it...this eliminated the speed sensor use in the tail of the transmission and the CC motor control stuff.
Lockup/Overdrive - Rewired this to a Vacuum Switch and PATC pressure switches for the overdrive and lockup. I repurposed the AC relay and rewired it to the Overdrive bypass switch in the cab to retain that function.
Tachometer - Bought a TachAdapt module that allows me to convert the tach signal from my new HEI distributor to what's needed for the stock gauge. You could also use your own gauge straight off the HEI.
O2 - don't need it with carb
Fuel Management - All this goes away with the Carb. I kept the tank fuel pump and sender unit since it's a return style system instead of using a mechanical pump. Just put a Holley bypass fuel regulator on it to reduce the PSI to the carb and you're all set. You will need to rewire the ADS relay ground to ground instead of ECM controlled.
Ignition Coil - Kept the old + wire as the input to the new HEI distributor. Negative wire deleted.
Emissions - I kept the Charcoal purge cannister and use an electric/vacuum switch for the purge signal. I fire the switch with the same vacuum switch used for overdrive/lockup, just the opposite state. Under Vaccum (normal running), the vacuum switch provides 12V to the solenoids for lockup and overdrive with the separate pressure switches providing ground. Under low vacuum (WOT), I lose the overdrive and lockup but gain 12V to the charcoal purge switch. You lose the engine diagnostic connector, engine check light and emissions light but I didn't need them going carb.
I took the harness out onto a kitchen table, and using the FSM identified all of the above ahead of time. I started removing wires. By removing the ECM, all but three wires leave the big engine harness connector (Oil PSI and Water Temp), so I just respliced those and got rid of the engine connector too. I added in the circuits for the tach conversion, lockup/overddrive, charcoal purge, and electric fan (I did a 360 swap). I'm actually installing it all this week so I'll let you know how it goes, but so far so good.
#14
i don't necessarily need the entire connector just two of the terminal pins. There is only 1 local jy within 1hr of me and they have practically no dodge vehicles. Very small jy like 20 vehicles.
#16
#17
#18
#20