I got a wild hair up myass and was going to fix my non-working fuel gauge on my '93 Dodge Dakota LE. Then I got to thinking, it could be any number of different things causing the problem. I might be replacing pumps, senders, gauges, wires, and who knows what all before I finally get it working again. Then I'd have to pull either the tank or the bed and that doesn't particularly thrill me either. Lots of work and lots of $$ for a stinking fuel gauge. Nah, aint gonna do it! I'll just keep using my trip-o-meter. 320 miles/tank city driving, 380 miles/tank on the highway (and hope no one siphons my gas). Job complete!

Maybe I'll check the ground if I can find it and get to it.

 

It's not too hard to get the sending unit out...I dropped my tank 3 times during my build and can do it in 30 minutes or less. Albeit I have a lift and transmission Jacks which makes it simple. Usually it's the wiper on the sender that gets corroded over time. Pull the sender, a little sand paper, and voila.

You can also raise the bed pretty simply too if you don't have a lift. 8 bolts and a couple of floor jacks. Raise the bed and pull the assembly from the top.

 

Before you pull the assembly ... go through the trouble shooting chart to verify it IS the sending unit (yah, that's most likely it, but ya know, there's more than just a sending unit in the chain ... )

RwP

 

I could be wrong but I seem to recall that the low fuel light gets its signal from a different sender. I thought someone said that. In which case as long as you don't live where stations are like more than 20 miles apart then you should be good just using the low fuel.

Not that that's ideal, typically it's best to not go much lower than a 1/4 tank before refilling to ensure it's sucking fresh fuel with no sediment. But at a functional low fuel light would ensure you wouldn't be stranded.

(I'm also an owner of a wonky fuel gauge that is pretty near the bottom of the list on things to fix)

 

Depends on the year, I think, Tbugden.

On my 1988, it's a contact on the fuel sending unit (i.e., it's a switch that uses the same ground path as the sending unit).

I won't make any claims for any other years ...

OTGH, it's not that hard to repair/refresh the 1988 sending unit; some polishing with a piece of a dollar bill, flex the arms to where they bight in a bit more, and presto, it now works great.

RwP

 

tbugden, you are exactly right. My low fuel light is independent of the fuel gauge sender and it still works. It acts as a backup alert to my trip-o-meter.

I may look into more if/when I have nothing better to do. I'm kind of **** about having everything work on my truck. On the other hand, it's not vital. I'm thinking the worst part of the job is just getting to the dang thing. And that might not be as big a pita as I think. As ralph and others have suggested, it might just be a simple spit polish.

 

Well, if the light works, at least the GROUND wire is good *grins*

On the 1988, it's resistance wire and a phosphor bronze (I think) arm.

Polish up the wire, cleaning with contact cleaner, and bend it so it makes better contact, and it works a champ.

I think the 1993 is slightly different; but I won't be surprised if the main thing is the swing arm again.

Of course, it won't be a bad idea to first check and make sure the GAUGE is working; ideally, fill it up and measure the resistance at the gauge input (pull the dash cover, pull the instrument cover cluster, pull the gauge and check; or pull the cluster and check the wire behind). Then run it about 250 miles or so, and check again. If it changed properly (I don't have the proper range values where I can find them easily, sorry!) it's the gauge. If there's no resistance to ground, it could be wiring or sending unit. But the gauge is easier to swap than the sending unit for most people *grins*

RwP