So...been on a vacation. Got back yesterday. Started working on the frame again today. Found a major issue. Big a$$ rotted out spot on the frame. Right on top of where the drivers side parking brake cable mount is. I'm going to have to patch it. Don't really have a choice. Don't want to chop up my parts truck frame as it's in better condition and I'm going to use it for the "long term" restoration project. It's a pretty healthy size section. Maybe 4 inches long... As of now I'm almost done stripping the rails and getting them ready for the rust converter. The section I prepped before and painted looks good. The Eastwood original satin black chassis paint looks great on top of the rust converter. I hit the edges of where I painted with the wire wheel and the paint held up surprisingly well. I'm hoping this weekend I'll be done with the frame painting so I can put up some pics

 

Just got done stripping prepping and applying rust converter. Here's how it looks

 

Coming along nicely. Would like to see how that repair goes. I'll be tackling this same job someday in the future, I've got a little rust goin' and I don't want it to get away from me.

I think the rust converters work OK, as long as you can access the areas where the rust hides. The conversion to oxide is a proven way to interfere with rust's progress, whether its done with a rust converter or some other means. The problems arise from those cracks, crevices, pits, and tightly bound scale that sometimes allow a few molecules of oxygen and moisture to hide out and get the rust process started again. I've come to prefer electrolysis for heavier rust, primarily because the process reaches into the tightest of spots and the hydrogen bubbles that form on the part you're cleaning are very forceful at lifting off any loose scale, paint, or plating that isn't tightly bound to the piece. That ensures relatively deep penetration of the oxide, that black stuff that's left where the rust once was. But like any rust conversion process, its not fool proof, you have to ensure the parts get good exposure to the sacrificial anodes or areas can be missed.

One of the forum members here, TBUGDEN, did a great write-up on electrolysis for rust removal. He inspired a few of us to look into it and try it out.

 

Yeah I read up on the electrolysis. That's what I'll be doing to the frame on my parts truck. That frame will be cleaned, repaired then I'll either box it then dip it or dip it then box it. But for now I used a softer wire wheel to remove light rust from this frame then attacked it with a much harder wire wheel and worked very slowly to knock off most of the rust. I then cleaned it very well made sure it was dry and applied my rust converter. Waited about an hour for it to dry a bit then applied a second heavier coat. Tomorrow I'll scuff it clean it and paint it. After paint I'm going to start repairing the bad spots. I know that seems kinda backwards but I'm waiting on my buddy to have a few days off work so he can bring his welder over and help me weld in the patch pieces. I'd rather have to sand n paint a small area then the whole frame. I'm going to weld in a strip of 1/8 steel on the rear bottom of the frame rails where the hitch bolts to for a little extra strength.
while I'm waiting for him to get some time off I'm going to work on getting my rear diff cleaned up and painted. Along with all the rear cross members and braces and I still have to do the hangars and hitch as well. A couple of the crossmembers have spots that need to be patched as well. I'm also going to strip and paint the driveshaft. I dug into the front half of the frame looking for holes cracks and rot and it's all a little rusty but not bad at all

 

Yep, the rear half of the frame seems to get the rot much more so than the front half. Mine had so much grease and oil on the front half much of it still looked new, lol. In the front, on the 4x4's, you have to keep the area around the upper shock mounts cleaned out, and also the bump stop mount, as those are rust prone areas.