Okay, so I'm installing a super cheap 3 inch ebay lift kit (rear blocks/ new torsion key) on my 1994 Dodge Dakota 4x4 SLT. I've been searching the internet in search for 2 things my service manual is lacking in:

1. How can you adjust positive camber using the original suspension? the service manual only covers 2wd camber and toe in/out adjustments.

- The only camber adjustment pages in the service manual




- My suspension that is clearly different (2 angles)


- This set-up is in the book but is not addressed in the alignment section




2. Can you replace the upper and lower suspension arms of the 1st gen Dakota with a 2nd gen? The reason in asking this is because I've read on this site that you cant get lower suspension arm bushings for the 1st gen and I am having a hell of a time finding new replacement upper suspension arms after welding in the ball joints.


A picture of the truck as a thank you for reading.

 

I found this info on 2nd gen upper arms (https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...questions.html) and this info on lower arm bushing (https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ushings-2.html). TLDR for both, you cant use 2nd gen without modification (looks plausible) and the lower arm bushing is a pain.

Ive also found info on adjusting camber by adjusting the upper arm mount (https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...heels-out.html). I believe this is done by adjusting this bolt:



This second picture is hard to look at but it is the underside of the bolt above. I highlighted the adjustment slot in the second picture.

 

You may want to clean the rocks and what-not out of the pockets where those adjustment bolts are located on the chassis. Its prone to rust there, since those pockets tend to collect crud.

 

If you find a way to adjust camber successfully (read: accurately) at home, let me know. The upper control arm mounts are slotted so the control arm can slide in and out. As the manual states, adjusting the control arm using the forward slot changes camber and adjusting the control arm using the rearward slot changes caster. I adjusted mine roughly at home and have driven it that way for three years. The right tire is wearing perfectly, but the left is wearing faster on the inside; So I think my camber is pretty ****ed up. I just haven't brought it to be professionally aligned yet because there's more important things to do like putting new stickers in my rear window (sarcasm).

I second what ragged says. That truck looks so clean, keep it that way!

 

the only way to do it accurately is on an alignment rack. and the procedure for 2wd alignment adjust and 4wd is the same. specs are different though. you move camber you also move caster. You have to move front and back of the control arm the same amount AND the same direction (both in or both out) to change camber without changing caster. Change either and it throws toe-in out of whack. That's why you set toe last in an alignment. If toe is "way" out bring it back "close" and continue your camber/caster adjustment. then dial it in once camber and caster is right.

Often when a truck is lifted you WILL NOT get it back to OE alignment specs.
and you gotta watch the "cross" camber and cross caster, this is the difference between the setting on the left side vs the setting on the right side. this is most common cause of pull due to alignment. You can have both sides "in spec" but if there is too much spread between left and right, there is your pull.
You can set it all "out" of spec and have it drive great/ but eat tires.... you can have it all within spec and drive like crap. there is a pretty wide tolerance either side of "perfect",,,,
if you can get either camber OR caster but not both shoot for camber and let caster fall where it will, within limits of "cross caster" stated above.
sometimes we would alter camber and/or caster on one side slightly to take advantage of the fact that you can compensate for things like road crown with those cross readings.

CAMBER can cause a pull and/or wear tires
CASTER can pull but wont wear tires
TOE can eat tires but not cause a pull.
and one more pet peeve of mine.... Just because the steering wheel is slightly off that does not necessarily mean it is "pulling".... I can set your steering wheel anywhere I want it to be and have the alignment where it will drive straight down the road and not tear up tires....
I'm more worried about a sudden change in steering wheel position..... this is when I would start looking for bent parts.