And the best part is that our North American Government hasn't paid a dime of tax payer money to bail out any of these brands, Subaru, Honda, Lexus ES, Acura MDX, Toyota, Volvo.

 

yeah that is embarrassing.... last time that I drove my Wrangler (which I have owned since Y2K) up by my brother's house 40 miles north, I pulled up to a stop light. As I held the clutch in waiting for it to go green, I was next to a (ugh) Honduh… A Lexus pulled up behind/ a Toyota nest to it... a Kia behind them and another Honduh next to it. There were a dozen of us accumulated at the light, and I was the only American vehicle..... those situations tend to irritate me to no end.... and when I need any maintenance parts I cant hardly find any that come from anywhere but China... another aggravation. Up til a few years ago I could go to the closest parts store. ask for whatever I needed. As they put the pile on the counter I'd separate the Chinamade parts and tell them I didn't want these. and go 2 miles down the road and get those in "made in USA or Canada" Not any more. My Jeep was built in Toledo and my trucks were Warren Michigan..... I sure as He11 don't want Chinamade parts going back in...…

and "Dakootie".... Raybestos used to be (as "best" is part of their name and for years was very deservant-- unsure in this day and age) one of the 3 best brake companies in the world. Wagner and Bendix being the other 2, all are (were) fantastic products. But having said that, for any given application, there are at least 3 different grades of brakes that will "fit the hole" from each brand. But you have your economy grade, (which I would never recommend unless you are in a bind and that was all they had..... and you need something to get by until the better grade ones come in) then a "pro" grade, which does NOT mean "heavy duty" it's a cheaper line that shop owners like to order in bulk because they can get them "kinda cheap"..... I'm not sayin that you need "severe service" (police/taxi or heavy duty truck loaded to the max all the time, rated pads) but there is usually only a couple bucks difference in between grades of brakes. The am,ount of work you gotta put in is the same. I would go with a premium line, no lower than "middle of the road" quality. IT DOES make a difference, in longevity and in each stop you make, before you wear them out. often I have seen a soft pedal from economy grade, swap in a better grade and not do anything else, and have a huge difference in how the brakes work. Also, I try my best to avoid "house brand" parts especially as important as front end and brake parts are to safety. House brand parts are an unknown gamble.
At one shop I worked at, the owner bought his brake parts from a warehouse, and raved about $8 rotors and $7 brake pads. That he sold for 4 to 5 times that amount. Plus labor. Some no name crap that I'd previously never heard of. Yet he insisted on ONLY MOOG front end parts when we had to do front end work on customers' cars. (the best you can get)
Well, it took us workers a while, but we finally got him away from that cheap crap, we had a run of customers that came in with "shot" brakes after less than 10k miles which he had to "eat" because he gave a 12/12 warranty. We swapped to Wagner and that problem went away. we had been complaining about the look and texture of the cheap crap for quite a while before the owner finally wised up.

New hardware, pre adjust the adjusters on drum brakes, freed up adjusters, freed up caliper slides, brake pad "ways" in the caliper bracket cleaned of accumulated rust, and lubed with brake grease (silicone based) are all small things that make a huge difference that many DIY'ers have no idea about.

on your Raybestos brakes that are $10 cheaper for the 10" shoes vs the 9" versions.... are they both the same grade? just makin sure. I saw you mention needing backing plates. Why? I have never seen a set of them on these trucks rot out beyond usage.
on the Fords with the little drum within the disc for a parking brake, I see it all the time. the hold down nails pull right thru the pop can-thin material. the old 80s Monte carlos, malibus, Cutlasses etc with the retainer clip style wheel cylinder retainers, instead of bolts, I replaced a ton of those. but never on a Ford or Dodge anything with drum brakes. and I have been wrenching for a living since 1987.
You will have different size wheel cylinders with 10" than 9" brakes..... I know that for a fact because I ordered cylinders for both of my Dakotas from Rock Auto at the same time. If you gotta buy those anyways then that point is moot. wheel cylinders are cheap,
but if your current wheel cylinders are fine (no leaks, not froze up) if you stay with what you have, that's one thing you wont have to spend money on. also to replace the backing plates you gotta pull the axles. Seals are cheap, yes.... but especially if you are doing this job on your back instead of on a lift, it is a bit cumbersome and also it is more work you wont have to do (unless you have leaky axle seals anyway) if you keep the 9s..... a lot more aggravation than the $10 that you might save by buying the 10" shoes over the 9"/

 

well I would HOPE not, Japan, or Sweden or Korea is these carmakers' home base, I would hope that their home countries would take that responsibility. Though some of these companies have plants that ASSEMBLE cars here (there is a difference/
that does not mean MADE here) they can go back home and cry to momma if the need arises....

 

anyways I hope that your truck works for you like you expect it to once youre done with its brake job. I see that youre in Canada, I visited there once (I think it was Toronto) when I was about 5. I dunno what is available there vs here, parts wise.

 

Now what's truly interesting is, the Toyota has more american content in it, than most "american" brands......