Where can i buy an intermediate steering shaft?
#11
09-25-2018, 09:42 PM
I don't know if approx. $100 is "pretty expensive", compared to the other choice (finding cheap stuff to hit when the current linkage breaks!) 
I'll add an angle grinder or sanding disc is not a bad idea, to rechamfer the end you cut so it slides in and out a bit better.
What one guy did on another forum is, after he got his linkage all right and adjusted, he took each set screw out one at a time, did a small drill right smackdab in the middle with a 1/8" drill bit (just enough to mark it!), pulled the shaft, and drilled a shallow countersink with a 1/4" drill bit, to give the set screw something to bite on.
I just crank'er down with LokTite Blue on the threads myself.
Aside: There's a spot on the tilt column bottom end where the old roll pin went that's just perfect to bit into with the set screw; the rack & pinion end was also just about perfect to bite into with the set screw there.
As to feel ... well, I'm a bit better aquainted with the bumps and expansion joints between the steel U-joints and the poly control arm bushings
But it's not objectionable; and a LOT better than the previous "I turned the wheel, why isn't it turn .. oh, THERE it goes!" IMO.
RwP
I'll add an angle grinder or sanding disc is not a bad idea, to rechamfer the end you cut so it slides in and out a bit better.
What one guy did on another forum is, after he got his linkage all right and adjusted, he took each set screw out one at a time, did a small drill right smackdab in the middle with a 1/8" drill bit (just enough to mark it!), pulled the shaft, and drilled a shallow countersink with a 1/4" drill bit, to give the set screw something to bite on.
I just crank'er down with LokTite Blue on the threads myself.
Aside: There's a spot on the tilt column bottom end where the old roll pin went that's just perfect to bit into with the set screw; the rack & pinion end was also just about perfect to bite into with the set screw there.
As to feel ... well, I'm a bit better aquainted with the bumps and expansion joints between the steel U-joints and the poly control arm bushings
But it's not objectionable; and a LOT better than the previous "I turned the wheel, why isn't it turn .. oh, THERE it goes!" IMO.
RwP
Borgeson 450024 for the shaft and Borgeson 013449 and 013452 for the u joints.
Still, $208 is worth it but it hurt at the time when I was a not-so-well-off college student. Though in fact it would hurt a bit more if I had to do it today...unfortunately.
#12
09-27-2018, 09:04 AM
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#13
09-27-2018, 09:08 AM
#14
09-27-2018, 09:37 AM
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#15
09-27-2018, 01:39 PM
I don't remember exactly but because I had a telescoping shaft, I extended it completely and cut it so the total length of the shaft from u joint to u joint was the same as the original. I had the original sitting on the bench next to it as a reference. Just to note a telescoping shaft is a good idea for safety because it means in an accident the shaft won't be pushed up into the cabin. Not that these are very safe trucks to begin with, but I decided to at least keep the few safety features it does have.
As I recall I removed the battery and battery tray and disconnected the starter wires to get them out of the way and that gave me enough access in my '93.
I'm trying to remember but i think install wasn't difficult, I installed the upper joint first.
As I recall I removed the battery and battery tray and disconnected the starter wires to get them out of the way and that gave me enough access in my '93.
I'm trying to remember but i think install wasn't difficult, I installed the upper joint first.
Last edited by tbugden; 09-27-2018 at 01:42 PM.