New to forum/95 dakota sport
#1
12-27-2018, 09:17 PM
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New to forum/95 dakota sport
Hey all,
Merry Christmas, Happy New Year etc..
Have a 95 Sport 318 ext cab 2wd auto.
Need info on possible 360 swap.. is it worth it for power? (not that the 318 lacks
) But it only has 65,000 on truck as I bought from older couple and want to preserve oem block. What would be required? I've been reading a little bit on this topic but can't seem to pinpoint exact yr/eng discussion. Plan on electric fan conv. as well. Is there any emissions/egr delete info anyone can share? Also want to swap rear end for a posi/limited slipas well. any major mods wellding or can I just bolt up whole axle? Swap diff guts? Thanks!
Merry Christmas, Happy New Year etc..
Have a 95 Sport 318 ext cab 2wd auto.
Need info on possible 360 swap.. is it worth it for power? (not that the 318 lacks
) But it only has 65,000 on truck as I bought from older couple and want to preserve oem block. What would be required? I've been reading a little bit on this topic but can't seem to pinpoint exact yr/eng discussion. Plan on electric fan conv. as well. Is there any emissions/egr delete info anyone can share? Also want to swap rear end for a posi/limited slipas well. any major mods wellding or can I just bolt up whole axle? Swap diff guts? Thanks!
#2
12-27-2018, 10:13 PM
Champion
It's up to you on if it's worth it.
You would need the matching parts for balancing (harmonic balancer, flexplate, and/or torque converter). As to emissions delete - why not also upgrade to 1996 ECU and wiring, to get rid of EGR plumbing? However, other than that, you should be OK with the factory emissions. The ECU can handle a 5.9 in place of tha 5.2, but it won't quite have as much flexibility to enrich, whereas the 1996 can be tuned to run the 5.9 at 100%.
As to swapping the rear end, if you pick up a whole rear end out of a 91-96 2WD Dakota, it'll bolt right up. Or, you can have the current rear end rebuilt with a SureGrip or TrakLock limited slip (TrakLock is a Dana design, and is rebuildable; the SureGrip is nominally NOT rebuildable). Summit claims to stock the SureGrip for right under $400, East Coast has the Trak-Lok for about $325.
If you pick up a 4WD rear axle, the spring perches are on the TOP of the axle housing, not the BOTTOM; it'll raise the rear about 2" or so.
If it's a 1987-1990 rear axle, the shafts and drums will be 5x not 6x; still, swap axles and drums, and you'll be OK.
I'd still recommend a rebuild, including removing the rear axles, replacing the wheel bearings, painting or powder coating the brake backing plates (or even hunting up and doing a disc conversion!), and reassembling with new hardware and hydraulic parts. But that's your choice there.
RwP
You would need the matching parts for balancing (harmonic balancer, flexplate, and/or torque converter). As to emissions delete - why not also upgrade to 1996 ECU and wiring, to get rid of EGR plumbing? However, other than that, you should be OK with the factory emissions. The ECU can handle a 5.9 in place of tha 5.2, but it won't quite have as much flexibility to enrich, whereas the 1996 can be tuned to run the 5.9 at 100%.
As to swapping the rear end, if you pick up a whole rear end out of a 91-96 2WD Dakota, it'll bolt right up. Or, you can have the current rear end rebuilt with a SureGrip or TrakLock limited slip (TrakLock is a Dana design, and is rebuildable; the SureGrip is nominally NOT rebuildable). Summit claims to stock the SureGrip for right under $400, East Coast has the Trak-Lok for about $325.
If you pick up a 4WD rear axle, the spring perches are on the TOP of the axle housing, not the BOTTOM; it'll raise the rear about 2" or so.
If it's a 1987-1990 rear axle, the shafts and drums will be 5x not 6x; still, swap axles and drums, and you'll be OK.
I'd still recommend a rebuild, including removing the rear axles, replacing the wheel bearings, painting or powder coating the brake backing plates (or even hunting up and doing a disc conversion!), and reassembling with new hardware and hydraulic parts. But that's your choice there.
RwP
#3
12-28-2018, 08:12 AM
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95 dakota
It's up to you on if it's worth it.
You would need the matching parts for balancing (harmonic balancer, flexplate, and/or torque converter). As to emissions delete - why not also upgrade to 1996 ECU and wiring, to get rid of EGR plumbing? However, other than that, you should be OK with the factory emissions. The ECU can handle a 5.9 in place of tha 5.2, but it won't quite have as much flexibility to enrich, whereas the 1996 can be tuned to run the 5.9 at 100%.
As to swapping the rear end, if you pick up a whole rear end out of a 91-96 2WD Dakota, it'll bolt right up. Or, you can have the current rear end rebuilt with a SureGrip or TrakLock limited slip (TrakLock is a Dana design, and is rebuildable; the SureGrip is nominally NOT rebuildable). Summit claims to stock the SureGrip for right under $400, East Coast has the Trak-Lok for about $325.
If you pick up a 4WD rear axle, the spring perches are on the TOP of the axle housing, not the BOTTOM; it'll raise the rear about 2" or so.
If it's a 1987-1990 rear axle, the shafts and drums will be 5x not 6x; still, swap axles and drums, and you'll be OK.
I'd still recommend a rebuild, including removing the rear axles, replacing the wheel bearings, painting or powder coating the brake backing plates (or even hunting up and doing a disc conversion!), and reassembling with new hardware and hydraulic parts. But that's your choice there.
RwP
You would need the matching parts for balancing (harmonic balancer, flexplate, and/or torque converter). As to emissions delete - why not also upgrade to 1996 ECU and wiring, to get rid of EGR plumbing? However, other than that, you should be OK with the factory emissions. The ECU can handle a 5.9 in place of tha 5.2, but it won't quite have as much flexibility to enrich, whereas the 1996 can be tuned to run the 5.9 at 100%.
As to swapping the rear end, if you pick up a whole rear end out of a 91-96 2WD Dakota, it'll bolt right up. Or, you can have the current rear end rebuilt with a SureGrip or TrakLock limited slip (TrakLock is a Dana design, and is rebuildable; the SureGrip is nominally NOT rebuildable). Summit claims to stock the SureGrip for right under $400, East Coast has the Trak-Lok for about $325.
If you pick up a 4WD rear axle, the spring perches are on the TOP of the axle housing, not the BOTTOM; it'll raise the rear about 2" or so.
If it's a 1987-1990 rear axle, the shafts and drums will be 5x not 6x; still, swap axles and drums, and you'll be OK.
I'd still recommend a rebuild, including removing the rear axles, replacing the wheel bearings, painting or powder coating the brake backing plates (or even hunting up and doing a disc conversion!), and reassembling with new hardware and hydraulic parts. But that's your choice there.
RwP
besides the flexplate torque converter I assume the 360 will bolt up to the current automatic transmission in there ?
Last edited by Michael9565K; 12-28-2018 at 08:18 AM.
#4
12-28-2018, 08:57 AM
Champion
Bell housing is the same. Starter is the same. Motor mounts the same.
If you're an old school Chevy guy, think "400cid into 55 Chevy replacing the 265cid" kind of swap level.
RwP
#5
12-28-2018, 09:00 AM
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Thats delicious. Anyway after doing some more research it appears that the 360 would not have that much more horsepower than the 318 I’m think I’m gonna just try and stick with some power upgrades for my 318 which is a damn good running engine can’t figure out how to upload pics on here if someone could shed some light on there thank you
#6
12-28-2018, 03:35 PM
Champion
The 360 would be a better base for more torque; but the 318, especially if you stroke it, will be nice for raw power.
HOWEVER.
I'd most DEFINATELY look at upgrading to a 1996 wiring harness, and going OBDII, so you can go fuel injected and get it tuned to use the horsepower upgrades.
I have both the 1995 and the 1996 FSMs downloaded from here, but I've never gone between them to verify what all DOES change at the bulkhead; you may be lucky (pull the manuals down and compare the two).
The 1996 will expect a RE transmission instead of a RH; I'd consider doing that also, or upgrade to a 5 speed manual and work from there. Shucks, the 5 speed will be a LOT more fun!
RwP
HOWEVER.
I'd most DEFINATELY look at upgrading to a 1996 wiring harness, and going OBDII, so you can go fuel injected and get it tuned to use the horsepower upgrades.
I have both the 1995 and the 1996 FSMs downloaded from here, but I've never gone between them to verify what all DOES change at the bulkhead; you may be lucky (pull the manuals down and compare the two).
The 1996 will expect a RE transmission instead of a RH; I'd consider doing that also, or upgrade to a 5 speed manual and work from there. Shucks, the 5 speed will be a LOT more fun!
RwP
#7
12-28-2018, 04:26 PM
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Yes as much as I would like a manual don’t really want to get that too in depth with it either just assumed by another truck for that in regards to the engine, I think I’m going to try and get some performance upgrades for the 318 first such as the electric fan maybe intake mods or whatever first before I decide to do a motor swap