Hey guys, I've posted here in the past and am usually able to figure a lot of the problems on this truck out without making a post, but this one has me stumped. 94 RWD Dakota, all stock.

After my truck sat for about a month, it started showing the ABS Inop/Parking brake light on the dash. It will turn on after about 30 seconds with the key in the powered and on position (engine doesn't seem to have to be running). After doing some research, I figured the easy and most common fix is the ABS sensor above the rear diff so I bought one and threw it in - no fix. I did read the FAQ and what feels like 30+ posts on this subject around the net but most of them involve the speedo or brake lights not working and that isn't an issue for me.

I've also read that a blown fuse can cause it, but the only ABS I see listed on any fuse diagram is fuse 4 which my truck doesn't seem to even have. That possibly is only found in the 4x4? My fluid SEEMS to be ok - I topped them up a few months ago when this problem appeared and if they're leaking it's so slow I can't notice it. I have the 2 cap system. I don't have a lot of experience with brake systems but I'm sure with some guidance I can possibly get this fixed and finally be able to fix some cosmetic issues on this truck instead of constant mechanical fixes, haha. If you have any useful information, please hit me with anything you might know.

Bonus points: Almost time for new brakes/rotors. Any brand suggestions?

 

I had the same issue, ended up being the proportioning valve was stuck in one direction

 

I've been using Wagner ThermoQuiet pads on my vehicles; they don't squeak and the vehicles stop. Can't ask for much more (well, can ask for less dust, but eh.)

For rotors - I tend to head towards the higher end of conventionals on that. For my 1988, that's a Wagner or Raybestos high grade.

Don't forget, on the 2WD, you'll also do bearings and inner seal; Timken or SKF are my brands for the bearings, and same on the seals. The bearing grease I usually use a bearing packer and my moly front end grease (bearing packer like ). My seal and race driver is the Maddox set from Harbor Freight; I don't use it often enough to need a super high end unit, and this one is adequate for my occasional usage.

As to your other problem - I'd be checking and finding out where it's leaking from, fixing that, and then worrying about the lights. A slow leak can be a blow out in a panic stop situation; that's muyo no bueno!

Typical on vehicles as old as ours are would be the rubber hoses, the master cylinder (and if it's the master cylinder, do the brake booster also!), and rusting out hard lines.

It can also be a bad caliper and/or wheel cylinder; when I did my rear brakes, I just did all of it (new wheel cylinder, new drums, new hardware, new shoes, new rubber hose from frame to axle). Wasn't too bad, and the wheel cylinders were starting to rust inside, so ...

For the front, you might want to consider new hoses and new-to-you calipers (reman'ed or new). As I type this, I see RockAuto has Cardones that are coated for extra rust prevention for about $23 each; Wagner Severe Duty pads are about $30//set (both sides in set), with the PowerStop extreme braking being $45; hoses are under $12 each for AC Delco; bearings are about $8 to $9 each (two inner, two outer); seal about $7 each (so bearings and seal about $24/side); and just for grins, the spindle nut set (nut, castle, and cotter key) for about $4.50 each side. I'd also consider a new dust cap while doing, and possibly new wheel nuts (rotor/hub assembly comes with new studs). That would be all new from the spindle out. RockAuto only lists economy grade rotors, alas; with that, you're looking at all new for about $75/side, plus rotor. The Wagner and Bendix are about $43 each, so ... with shipping and a 5% discount completely new brakes will be about $250 plus or minus a bit (depending on shipping). What I would do is drive out the races from the new rotor/hub assemblies and put the SKF/Timken races back in.

RwP

 

There is a Factory Service Manual for the 95 in the FAQ section. It is good enough for most things on the 94. I think the only changes were internal to the trans and motor. Download it. Brakes are chapter 5 RWAL is page 8 or 9
Does the ABS light come on because of a computer signal or is it set off in some other way?
If it is set by the computer I would try to reset it by disconnecting the negative cable for 5 minutes. If the problem is fixed it won't come back on.
Plenty of videos on YT for brakes, disc and drum and there is always the do one side at a time and look at the other one for a guide method I learned by and still check myself by from before the interwebs

 

I have found that after doing ANYTHING to the brakes , front or rear, gravity bleeding them all 4 at one seems to be a requirements and makes the abs and brake warn light go out, the only situation where I did not have to bleed them was when I replaced the front pads
I'm a 93 Dakota with 4wd if that helps you.