Intermediate steering shaft
I've got a 94 Dakota 4x4 5.2L the upper universal joint on the steer shaft near the firewall is shot completely. Was curious if anyone knows where I may find a new one rather than a junk yard or if any other vehicle/year will be compatible to install. Thanks in advance!
Is your column tilt, or non tilt?
I made a new intermediate shaft for my 1988 tilt. However, the column end is different.
As to just the U-joint - folks like Borgeson ( https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php?cat=2 ) and Classic Performance Parts ( http://www.classicperform.com/Store2...roducts.htm#19 ) amongst others sell U-joint assemblies; the CPP U-joint assembly has the U-joint captivated by a cap screw with a hex drive socket on it; they should be fairly easy to remove.
Here's the article on me making a shaft.
I read a hint from Crazy4x4RT I think it was ... while fitting, use a dowel to measure the shaft with. If you cut too short, cuss at yourself, then pull out another $2 or so dowel instead of chopping up a $50 stainless steel double-D shaft.
Once it's the exact right length, use the down to mark the DD shaft, and use an angle grinder to cut it then feather the edge so it slips in easier.
RwP
I made a new intermediate shaft for my 1988 tilt. However, the column end is different.
As to just the U-joint - folks like Borgeson ( https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php?cat=2 ) and Classic Performance Parts ( http://www.classicperform.com/Store2...roducts.htm#19 ) amongst others sell U-joint assemblies; the CPP U-joint assembly has the U-joint captivated by a cap screw with a hex drive socket on it; they should be fairly easy to remove.
Here's the article on me making a shaft.
I read a hint from Crazy4x4RT I think it was ... while fitting, use a dowel to measure the shaft with. If you cut too short, cuss at yourself, then pull out another $2 or so dowel instead of chopping up a $50 stainless steel double-D shaft.
Once it's the exact right length, use the down to mark the DD shaft, and use an angle grinder to cut it then feather the edge so it slips in easier.
RwP
Is your column tilt, or non tilt?
I made a new intermediate shaft for my 1988 tilt. However, the column end is different.
As to just the U-joint - folks like Borgeson ( https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php?cat=2 ) and Classic Performance Parts ( http://www.classicperform.com/Store2...roducts.htm#19 ) amongst others sell U-joint assemblies; the CPP U-joint assembly has the U-joint captivated by a cap screw with a hex drive socket on it; they should be fairly easy to remove.
Here's the article on me making a shaft.
I read a hint from Crazy4x4RT I think it was ... while fitting, use a dowel to measure the shaft with. If you cut too short, cuss at yourself, then pull out another $2 or so dowel instead of chopping up a $50 stainless steel double-D shaft.
Once it's the exact right length, use the down to mark the DD shaft, and use an angle grinder to cut it then feather the edge so it slips in easier.
RwP
I made a new intermediate shaft for my 1988 tilt. However, the column end is different.
As to just the U-joint - folks like Borgeson ( https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/home.php?cat=2 ) and Classic Performance Parts ( http://www.classicperform.com/Store2...roducts.htm#19 ) amongst others sell U-joint assemblies; the CPP U-joint assembly has the U-joint captivated by a cap screw with a hex drive socket on it; they should be fairly easy to remove.
Here's the article on me making a shaft.
I read a hint from Crazy4x4RT I think it was ... while fitting, use a dowel to measure the shaft with. If you cut too short, cuss at yourself, then pull out another $2 or so dowel instead of chopping up a $50 stainless steel double-D shaft.
Once it's the exact right length, use the down to mark the DD shaft, and use an angle grinder to cut it then feather the edge so it slips in easier.
RwP
Do you have a link to your writeup on making one by chance? I saw in your first response you mentioned an article, although I didn't see one. Unless I mistook, or misread that. Thanks.
Interesting. That may be a solid option for me. Although I'm curious as to how necessary the slip-yoke might be in a 4x4 setup. It's just a daily so there wouldn't be any abnormal articulation between the body and frame. Thank you for the help. I managed to find this website randomly that appears to have a brand new shaft for about 160$ shipped. https://parts.hilltopchryslerjeepdod.../52078484.html
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The collapsing portion for safety is inside the column itself. If you cut the proper length, you won't need that slip yoke.
Of course, they do sell collapsable DD shaft units at places like CPP also; you could use that.
(Problem I had was that the minimum distance was a bit more than my maximum length ...)
From the 1994/1997 parts list here, I find the intermediate shaft to be P/N 52078484 . Alas, that number does not show up in any list I have. It may be earlier truck also use it; 95-96 have a different part number.
RwP
Of course, they do sell collapsable DD shaft units at places like CPP also; you could use that.
(Problem I had was that the minimum distance was a bit more than my maximum length ...)
From the 1994/1997 parts list here, I find the intermediate shaft to be P/N 52078484 . Alas, that number does not show up in any list I have. It may be earlier truck also use it; 95-96 have a different part number.
RwP
The collapsible nature of the intermediate shaft is designed to work WITH the collapsible part of the column itself. In a front end collision, the idea is, the shafts collapse, rather than stuffing the steering column into your chest......
That was rusted solid.
The diagrams for the 1994 are similar.
The shaft inside the steering column? Looks like one of those chinese finger puzzles that you can't hardly get your fingers out of.
Not saying a 97 or later isn't like you say; but I doubt the "collapse" of the intermediate shaft on a 1994 would do any good.
OTOH, collapsable double-D shafts ARE available.
RwP






