93 Dakota, Crank but no start
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Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: North Carolina
Agree Ralph and HeyYou. Pulled out my multimeter and got the following readings:
Battery (at rest): 12.18v
While idling: 11.78v
Idling with load (headlights, fan, radio): 11.46v
Recharged battery and it's back to 12.80ish volts at rest
Tells me the regulator is shot when I'm pulling only 11.78v while running. I did not realize the voltage regulator was in the PCM and now I understand why you guys are suggesting an external regulator. I went to YouTube and see that adding an external voltage regulator is pretty simple even for an electronic retard like me. This is a good alternative. Saw one kit from alternatorparts.com (Kit# ERCKFRM) that should do the trick. A bit unsure how/where to hook up the feed wire to a fuse but I suspect you could guide me thru that. I like this particular kit because it includes the FRM module so it will shut off the check engine light.
Before I proceed I will call my module guy and keep him in the loop. I do not want to give him any excuses for voiding my warranty. Spending $500 once was enuf money. He's been good about it so far. I'm also curious if he can repair the voltage regulator in this PCM as another option. Truthfully, I'm a bit skittish to try a third reman when the first two had problems...what problems will I run into with a third reman??? Know what I mean? So for this reason I would feel more confident keeping this PCM knowing everything else seems to work fine. BTW, this module guy is not a reseller. He repairs and remanufactures all his PCMs. But you probably know that.
Battery (at rest): 12.18v
While idling: 11.78v
Idling with load (headlights, fan, radio): 11.46v
Recharged battery and it's back to 12.80ish volts at rest
Tells me the regulator is shot when I'm pulling only 11.78v while running. I did not realize the voltage regulator was in the PCM and now I understand why you guys are suggesting an external regulator. I went to YouTube and see that adding an external voltage regulator is pretty simple even for an electronic retard like me. This is a good alternative. Saw one kit from alternatorparts.com (Kit# ERCKFRM) that should do the trick. A bit unsure how/where to hook up the feed wire to a fuse but I suspect you could guide me thru that. I like this particular kit because it includes the FRM module so it will shut off the check engine light.
Before I proceed I will call my module guy and keep him in the loop. I do not want to give him any excuses for voiding my warranty. Spending $500 once was enuf money. He's been good about it so far. I'm also curious if he can repair the voltage regulator in this PCM as another option. Truthfully, I'm a bit skittish to try a third reman when the first two had problems...what problems will I run into with a third reman??? Know what I mean? So for this reason I would feel more confident keeping this PCM knowing everything else seems to work fine. BTW, this module guy is not a reseller. He repairs and remanufactures all his PCMs. But you probably know that.
Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 374
From: Northwest Louisiana
I'm planning to tap my ASD feed for a secondary relay that will be fused for my alternator. I could just use the 12V line to the current field for that matter.
I DID buy an adjustable regulator designed to work with 200+A alternators since I have the big'un on my truck (I drive too much to use one that's just "big'nuff" but that's me; I also buy the biggest *** battery CCA-wise I can use when I buy, for the same reason.)
I'm cheap; I did some digging and some math, and it turns out the field coil is about 6 to 8 ohms, so I grabbed a 6 ohm 50W resistor, which is all that FRM is; but then again, I've been playing with making electrons do my bidding since the late 60's
That kit is one I'd recommend to someone who doesn't breath solder fumes for a hobby or as a living, for the FRM if nothing else. (Sounds like you'll be fine with it; sucker may not have any current worth mentioning through it!)
I'd recommend finding a nice panel to mount it to; I'll probably use my firewall for both the regulator and the resistor, so I can recycle as much of the original wiring to the alternator as possible.
RwP
I DID buy an adjustable regulator designed to work with 200+A alternators since I have the big'un on my truck (I drive too much to use one that's just "big'nuff" but that's me; I also buy the biggest *** battery CCA-wise I can use when I buy, for the same reason.)
I'm cheap; I did some digging and some math, and it turns out the field coil is about 6 to 8 ohms, so I grabbed a 6 ohm 50W resistor, which is all that FRM is; but then again, I've been playing with making electrons do my bidding since the late 60's
That kit is one I'd recommend to someone who doesn't breath solder fumes for a hobby or as a living, for the FRM if nothing else. (Sounds like you'll be fine with it; sucker may not have any current worth mentioning through it!)I'd recommend finding a nice panel to mount it to; I'll probably use my firewall for both the regulator and the resistor, so I can recycle as much of the original wiring to the alternator as possible.
RwP
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Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,232
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From: North Carolina
I'm planning to tap my ASD feed for a secondary relay that will be fused for my alternator. I could just use the 12V line to the current field for that matter.
I DID buy an adjustable regulator designed to work with 200+A alternators since I have the big'un on my truck (I drive too much to use one that's just "big'nuff" but that's me; I also buy the biggest *** battery CCA-wise I can use when I buy, for the same reason.)
I'm cheap; I did some digging and some math, and it turns out the field coil is about 6 to 8 ohms, so I grabbed a 6 ohm 50W resistor, which is all that FRM is; but then again, I've been playing with making electrons do my bidding since the late 60's That kit is one I'd recommend to someone who doesn't breath solder fumes for a hobby or as a living, for the FRM if nothing else. (Sounds like you'll be fine with it; sucker may not have any current worth mentioning through it!)
I'd recommend finding a nice panel to mount it to; I'll probably use my firewall for both the regulator and the resistor, so I can recycle as much of the original wiring to the alternator as possible.
RwP
I DID buy an adjustable regulator designed to work with 200+A alternators since I have the big'un on my truck (I drive too much to use one that's just "big'nuff" but that's me; I also buy the biggest *** battery CCA-wise I can use when I buy, for the same reason.)
I'm cheap; I did some digging and some math, and it turns out the field coil is about 6 to 8 ohms, so I grabbed a 6 ohm 50W resistor, which is all that FRM is; but then again, I've been playing with making electrons do my bidding since the late 60's
That kit is one I'd recommend to someone who doesn't breath solder fumes for a hobby or as a living, for the FRM if nothing else. (Sounds like you'll be fine with it; sucker may not have any current worth mentioning through it!)I'd recommend finding a nice panel to mount it to; I'll probably use my firewall for both the regulator and the resistor, so I can recycle as much of the original wiring to the alternator as possible.
RwP
Why the hell would Chrysler put that in the PCM? Idiots!!
Anyhow, I'm liking your idea more and more to simply bypass the PCM and install an external voltage regulator. There's actually an open spot in front of the PCM on the inside engine compartment where there would be plenty of room to mount it. It would be a short hop to connect the wires to the alternator. My hiccup is how/where to connect the feed wire. Hoping you can give me some advice, but remember I'm an electronic retard so speak to me accordingly. Here's what I know: I know I want to connect the feed to a switchable circuit (not a permanent "on" circuit). I'm thinking it would be best to connect it to an engine compartment fuse if possible (I attached a photo). But I'm not sure which fuse or how. I also know I can use a piggyback fuse holder. Is there a style that would work on what I have in the photo? I'm not even sure how I would get my feed wire to the interior fuse panel if that's what I wanted to do.
HELP!!!
I'll attach the photo in the next post.
Last edited by bronze; May 9, 2020 at 02:47 PM.
Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 374
From: Northwest Louisiana
Well, the ASD is switched, and can control another relay.
Shucks, the field is CURRENTLY off the ASD on most Dakotas - I don't remember, what year is yours again? (I have copies of the FSM for 1992-1996, and for 1998, and a 1991 wiring diagram. Don't ask, I collect manuals as a hobby ... and was planning to possibly swap to a Magnum so was trying to figure out the least intrusive way. Turns out it's to pull all the wiring out of the donor truck, but eh.)
One thing to remember is that one of the current field wires is ALREADY to a switched 12V line, and the other to the PCM; trace those back, and you can just tap into that 12V line for your regulator. (I don't know if the fuse can handle that AND the FRM at the same time; I'm paranoid, I'm using a relay and a different fused run off a secondary fuse block I've added to my 1988.)
I wouldn't use a TapAFuse or piggyback adapter; those tend to damage the fuse box due to the extra width.
I'm going to see if I find what year yours is in another post; I probably should remember, but at my age, I sometimes have to double check my driver's license to figure out who I am in the morning!
RwP
Shucks, the field is CURRENTLY off the ASD on most Dakotas - I don't remember, what year is yours again? (I have copies of the FSM for 1992-1996, and for 1998, and a 1991 wiring diagram. Don't ask, I collect manuals as a hobby ... and was planning to possibly swap to a Magnum so was trying to figure out the least intrusive way. Turns out it's to pull all the wiring out of the donor truck, but eh.)
One thing to remember is that one of the current field wires is ALREADY to a switched 12V line, and the other to the PCM; trace those back, and you can just tap into that 12V line for your regulator. (I don't know if the fuse can handle that AND the FRM at the same time; I'm paranoid, I'm using a relay and a different fused run off a secondary fuse block I've added to my 1988.)
I wouldn't use a TapAFuse or piggyback adapter; those tend to damage the fuse box due to the extra width.
I'm going to see if I find what year yours is in another post; I probably should remember, but at my age, I sometimes have to double check my driver's license to figure out who I am in the morning!
RwP
Thread Starter
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Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 473
From: North Carolina
Well, the ASD is switched, and can control another relay.
Shucks, the field is CURRENTLY off the ASD on most Dakotas - I don't remember, what year is yours again? (I have copies of the FSM for 1992-1996, and for 1998, and a 1991 wiring diagram. Don't ask, I collect manuals as a hobby ... and was planning to possibly swap to a Magnum so was trying to figure out the least intrusive way. Turns out it's to pull all the wiring out of the donor truck, but eh.)
One thing to remember is that one of the current field wires is ALREADY to a switched 12V line, and the other to the PCM; trace those back, and you can just tap into that 12V line for your regulator. (I don't know if the fuse can handle that AND the FRM at the same time; I'm paranoid, I'm using a relay and a different fused run off a secondary fuse block I've added to my 1988.)
I wouldn't use a TapAFuse or piggyback adapter; those tend to damage the fuse box due to the extra width.
I'm going to see if I find what year yours is in another post; I probably should remember, but at my age, I sometimes have to double check my driver's license to figure out who I am in the morning!
RwP
Shucks, the field is CURRENTLY off the ASD on most Dakotas - I don't remember, what year is yours again? (I have copies of the FSM for 1992-1996, and for 1998, and a 1991 wiring diagram. Don't ask, I collect manuals as a hobby ... and was planning to possibly swap to a Magnum so was trying to figure out the least intrusive way. Turns out it's to pull all the wiring out of the donor truck, but eh.)
One thing to remember is that one of the current field wires is ALREADY to a switched 12V line, and the other to the PCM; trace those back, and you can just tap into that 12V line for your regulator. (I don't know if the fuse can handle that AND the FRM at the same time; I'm paranoid, I'm using a relay and a different fused run off a secondary fuse block I've added to my 1988.)
I wouldn't use a TapAFuse or piggyback adapter; those tend to damage the fuse box due to the extra width.
I'm going to see if I find what year yours is in another post; I probably should remember, but at my age, I sometimes have to double check my driver's license to figure out who I am in the morning!
RwP
I was hoping you wouldn't say anything negative about using a piggyback.
Thread Starter
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Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 473
From: North Carolina
"Don't ask, I collect manuals as a hobby"
I love geeks! They're beautiful people.
I watch You Tube videos about how to fix stuff I have little or no chance of ever needing to do.
I love geeks! They're beautiful people.
I watch You Tube videos about how to fix stuff I have little or no chance of ever needing to do.
Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 374
From: Northwest Louisiana
Heh. As it said on the tin, a 1993 
Checking my 1993 FSM, there's several good points to tap off a current switched 12V feed, besides the current field feed.
The 18ga Dark Blue wire to the alternator field is switched 12V now. Tap into that and leave it alone, and part of your job is done. (The OTHER wire, the 18ga dark green, is the one that you're actually cutting free from the ECU. It's at pin 20 of the ECU connector). That info is useful for connecting the FRM, also; it needs to go to switched 12V and to the dark green wire to the PCM. (Cut that one to split, and splice into the dark blue wire, and you'll actually have two of the three connections for the regulator; the third is the case to ground. It SHOULD ground with the mounting screw, but I'd add a wire to a nearby grounding point also because, well, I'm silly and paranoid about electrons not behaving ... )
The 14ga dark blue that runs to the evap canistor solenoid and the EGR solenoid is also switched by the ignition key (a quick read says that any 14ga to 18ga dark blue SHOULD be switched 12V, but I could be wrong on that. Eh. Stick with EGR/evap solenoids or AC compressor clutch 14ga dark blue or the run to the daylight running lights module for non-Canadian vehicles, also 14ga dark blue and you should be good.
The fuel pump was moved to a secondary relay with 1991; but its coil is also operated by the ECU, so the fuel pump is an acceptable "Only while running" tap for power (16ga dark green with black).
If using a relay, the coil can actually be paralleled with the current ASD/fuel pump relay coils (both driven off the same signals from the ECU); that's always a possibility. (Those are contacts A and C in the relay box for both relays, or the dark blue on one side and dark blue with yellow tracer on the other side). That avoids the field being energized and sucking the battery while just sitting there listening to the radio also; that's a good thing!
That 14ga dark blue wire also runs to the data link connector under the hood, and to the transmission overdrive solenoid connector. There's plenty of places to tap 12V switched under the hood, and all are currently protected by a fuse.
Or at least a fusible link.
RwP
Checking my 1993 FSM, there's several good points to tap off a current switched 12V feed, besides the current field feed.
The 18ga Dark Blue wire to the alternator field is switched 12V now. Tap into that and leave it alone, and part of your job is done. (The OTHER wire, the 18ga dark green, is the one that you're actually cutting free from the ECU. It's at pin 20 of the ECU connector). That info is useful for connecting the FRM, also; it needs to go to switched 12V and to the dark green wire to the PCM. (Cut that one to split, and splice into the dark blue wire, and you'll actually have two of the three connections for the regulator; the third is the case to ground. It SHOULD ground with the mounting screw, but I'd add a wire to a nearby grounding point also because, well, I'm silly and paranoid about electrons not behaving ... )
The 14ga dark blue that runs to the evap canistor solenoid and the EGR solenoid is also switched by the ignition key (a quick read says that any 14ga to 18ga dark blue SHOULD be switched 12V, but I could be wrong on that. Eh. Stick with EGR/evap solenoids or AC compressor clutch 14ga dark blue or the run to the daylight running lights module for non-Canadian vehicles, also 14ga dark blue and you should be good.
The fuel pump was moved to a secondary relay with 1991; but its coil is also operated by the ECU, so the fuel pump is an acceptable "Only while running" tap for power (16ga dark green with black).
If using a relay, the coil can actually be paralleled with the current ASD/fuel pump relay coils (both driven off the same signals from the ECU); that's always a possibility. (Those are contacts A and C in the relay box for both relays, or the dark blue on one side and dark blue with yellow tracer on the other side). That avoids the field being energized and sucking the battery while just sitting there listening to the radio also; that's a good thing!
That 14ga dark blue wire also runs to the data link connector under the hood, and to the transmission overdrive solenoid connector. There's plenty of places to tap 12V switched under the hood, and all are currently protected by a fuse.
Or at least a fusible link.
RwP
