Opinions on Lucas Oil Stabilizers?
It's never clogged up my oil filter to my knowledge. I have noticed that it thins out the more miles it goes since the oil change. Oil pressure is great the first 1000 miles after the change, then it starts dropping down a little lower gradually after that. I assume it's losing some of its viscosity the more miles it is run through the engine. I did notice that you're in Minnesota, Chase. It's been a while since I've run my truck in 0 degree weather, we don't get it that often around here. Last time I ran it in weather that cold was probably 4-5 years ago. I don't remember having any problems with the engine though. I did drive my truck several times in a cold snap just last winter (10-20 degree weather) and I definitely had no problems with oil pressure or noise. I get what Ralph is saying about it being too thick to be pumped well to the bearings in cold weather, and I would never run a full crankcase of Heavy-Duty Lucas for that exact reason, cold weather or not, but I really think the stuff does "stick" to the bearing surfaces once it works its way in there. Maybe the stuff is snake oil, but I've been using it 50k on a high-mileage engine and never had a problem. If you've already got a knock, you're already kinda behind the 8 ball. It's $13 for a quart at Advance. You can try something different, and if it doesn't work after a few days, or gets worse, drain it back out. I'm not big on band-aid fixes in general, like head gasket sealer, P/S or A/C "stop-leak", but I like the Lucas. I'm pretty confident my engine is going to outlast my frame.
BTW, I was re-reading your original post, and you mentioned oil burning. I can't remember what, if any, oil consumption issues I was having before I started using the Lucas, but I can tell you now, I consistently only burn 1/2 quart between 3000 mile changes.
BTW, I was re-reading your original post, and you mentioned oil burning. I can't remember what, if any, oil consumption issues I was having before I started using the Lucas, but I can tell you now, I consistently only burn 1/2 quart between 3000 mile changes.
Last edited by Shaderabbit; Oct 20, 2019 at 05:46 PM.
Ok thanks, I work at a parts store and we sell fistfuls of oil additives that all claim different things. A popular one among truck drivers is Motorkote, it says itll work in everything under the sun that has gears or bearings in it so I'm curious to try it. Hyperlube is another one, syrupy but not as thick as lucas.
What do you think about friction modifiers in general?
What do you think about friction modifiers in general?
Depends.
They have their place; -70F is NOT the place!
I'd opt for a moly additive if I were you; that's been my favorite touch since the 70's.
I'd check into https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...009/12015784-p for one possible additive.
Another would be to just use a high grade synthetic.
Don't forget the anti-drainback valve on your engine oil filter.
Do be aware - the normal usage of a diesel motor in a tractor/trailer rig is NOT what you're doing with your Dakota!
(I believe in moly so much I use moly grease in my grease gun for my suspension and U-joints.)
Liqui-moly also sells engine oil; might want to look into that. (No, I don't add moly to my motor currently; I'll probably start adding it when I advance the timing in a few months.)
RwP
They have their place; -70F is NOT the place!
I'd opt for a moly additive if I were you; that's been my favorite touch since the 70's.
I'd check into https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...009/12015784-p for one possible additive.
Another would be to just use a high grade synthetic.
Don't forget the anti-drainback valve on your engine oil filter.
Do be aware - the normal usage of a diesel motor in a tractor/trailer rig is NOT what you're doing with your Dakota!
(I believe in moly so much I use moly grease in my grease gun for my suspension and U-joints.)
Liqui-moly also sells engine oil; might want to look into that. (No, I don't add moly to my motor currently; I'll probably start adding it when I advance the timing in a few months.)
RwP
Just my opinion, but Im not much on additives. I trust the oil engineers that designed the additive package included in the oil more then the manufactures of the additives only. Lots of snake oil products out there promising hope to help a mechanical problem..... Again, just my opinion.
That being said, this is what I would do.
1. use a good filter with a good valve, such as hastings, wix, etc. (as Ralph said)
2. I would use Mobil oil, 0-40 or 5-40 and change it often.
The syn. oils will flow better when cold, but hold their viscosity when warm....
I would change the oil often.... the motor probably has a lot of leakage by the rings, letting gas dulite the oil.
One last thing. I got the following info, out of my 87 FSM
5-30 and 5-40 are to be used when temps are no warmer then 60F and colder then -20F
10-30, 10-40, 10-50 is good for hotter then 100F and as cold as 0F
15-40 is good for hotter then 100F and as cold as 10F
20-40, 20-50, and 30W can be used when hotter then 100F and as cold as 20F
That being said, this is what I would do.
1. use a good filter with a good valve, such as hastings, wix, etc. (as Ralph said)
2. I would use Mobil oil, 0-40 or 5-40 and change it often.
The syn. oils will flow better when cold, but hold their viscosity when warm....
I would change the oil often.... the motor probably has a lot of leakage by the rings, letting gas dulite the oil.
One last thing. I got the following info, out of my 87 FSM
5-30 and 5-40 are to be used when temps are no warmer then 60F and colder then -20F
10-30, 10-40, 10-50 is good for hotter then 100F and as cold as 0F
15-40 is good for hotter then 100F and as cold as 10F
20-40, 20-50, and 30W can be used when hotter then 100F and as cold as 20F
Totally missed that. Thanks Ralph!!
One other question.
Is -70 the actual temp. or is that wind chill?
The reason I ask, is to make sure you know the actual temp. inside your engine, when it is cold will be the actual temp. a thermometer shows. Wind chill has no effect other then to cool a warm engine down quicker, but again, it will not go below the actual temp. that the thermometer shows.... Hope that makes sense.






