1995 dodge Dakota v6 problems. Please help!!
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1995 dodge Dakota v6 problems. Please help!!
I have a 1995 dodge Dakota v6 5 speed, I’ve had it for a good 4 years now. having a problem with it back firing in the manifold, it’s lost power and outputting way to much gas. If you could help in any way, it’s much appreciated.
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From: Northwest Louisiana
How long since the last tune up?
What shape is the plenum gasket in?
How old are the spark plug wires?
Have you checked the cats?
Do you have any codes? (Do the key dance to pull them)
RwP
What shape is the plenum gasket in?
How old are the spark plug wires?
Have you checked the cats?
Do you have any codes? (Do the key dance to pull them)
RwP
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I did a tuneup a few weeks ago to see if that would fix it, new plugs, wires, rotor and cap. I haven’t checked the cat, and can’t pull any codes. Can’t put a tester on it.
Last edited by Justin481234; Jan 2, 2020 at 11:09 AM.
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From: Northwest Louisiana
Have you done the key dance to see what codes are in the ECU?
Check the plenum; look down into the throttle body with the motor OFF and see if there's any oil pooling in it.
Use a NOID light on all the injectors; see if any are being hung on because of a bad ECU or not.
Injector itself may be hung mechanically; if you have one bad one, I'd replace all six with new or freshly rebuilt ones, although cleaning an injector can be done easily enough with a small pump, some B12 Berryman or equivalent, a matching connector for the power connector on the injector, and a 9V battery (get fancy and you can put some pushbuttons on the feed so you don't have to keep messing with the battery. Or use a 9V or 8V 3 wire regulator and run it and a 12V liquid pump off a 12V power source ... lotsa ways to get there from here.)
RwP
Check the plenum; look down into the throttle body with the motor OFF and see if there's any oil pooling in it.
Use a NOID light on all the injectors; see if any are being hung on because of a bad ECU or not.
Injector itself may be hung mechanically; if you have one bad one, I'd replace all six with new or freshly rebuilt ones, although cleaning an injector can be done easily enough with a small pump, some B12 Berryman or equivalent, a matching connector for the power connector on the injector, and a 9V battery (get fancy and you can put some pushbuttons on the feed so you don't have to keep messing with the battery. Or use a 9V or 8V 3 wire regulator and run it and a 12V liquid pump off a 12V power source ... lotsa ways to get there from here.)
RwP
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The codes
It has codes but I don’t know how to read them, And there is no oil down the intake. I saw that you’re talking about was replaced about a month ago and the intake seals replaced at the same time.
Last edited by Justin481234; Jan 2, 2020 at 03:33 PM.
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I got a 12, 21, 21, 24, 27, and 55.
12 is "Backup power disconnected in last 50 run cycles" which, if you've had the battery loose or disconnected, covers that.
55 is "End of codes." Those two I have memorized
For the rest, I go to http://www.dakota-truck.net/CODES/codes.html .
I get the following text:
With that many errors, I'd first check the wiring to the reference voltage used by the TPS, the MAF, the O2 sensor, and the injectors.
I'd also NOID the injectors - you're looking to see if they flash, not stay lit. I almost want to think you may have one hanging; again, if the light flashes the same on all of them, it's not electronic.
Plus - time to buy a set of plugs. Replace all of them, start the truck up, run it for no more than 10 minutes, then let it cool down and pull the plugs to get a clean read of the plug condition. EDIT: A video at
tells you how to read the spark plugs.
You DID check the gap for the plugs when you put them in, right?
Also, did you check the layout of the spark plug wires? You may have a problem there - but with the TPS/MAP sensors disagreeing, and with the O2 sensor acting up, I bet that's way down on the list.
RwP
12 is "Backup power disconnected in last 50 run cycles" which, if you've had the battery loose or disconnected, covers that.
55 is "End of codes." Those two I have memorized
For the rest, I go to http://www.dakota-truck.net/CODES/codes.html .
I get the following text:
Code Description
21
Upstream oxygen sensor voltage shorted to ground (tested after key off and at start to run) ** or
Left oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating range. **
or
Upstream oxygen sensor response slower than minimum required switching frequency or value does not go above .65 volts. **
or
Upstream oxygen sensor heating element circuit malfunction. **
or
Downstream oxygen sensor voltage shorted to ground (tested after key off and at start to run) **
or
Downstream oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating range. **
or
Neither rich nor lean condition detected from the downstream oxygen sensor. **
or
Downstream oxygen sensor heating element circuit malfunction. **
24
Throttle position sensor signal does not correlate to MAP sensor. **
or
Throttle position sensor input below the minimum acceptable voltage. **
or
Throttle position sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltage. **
27
Injector #1 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. **
or
Injector #2 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. **
or
Injector #3 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. **
or
Injector #4 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. **
or
Injector #5 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. (except 2.5L) **
or
Injector #6 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. (except 2.5L) **
or
Injector #7 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. (5.2L only) **
or
Injector #8 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. (5.2L only) **
21
Upstream oxygen sensor voltage shorted to ground (tested after key off and at start to run) ** or
Left oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating range. **
or
Upstream oxygen sensor response slower than minimum required switching frequency or value does not go above .65 volts. **
or
Upstream oxygen sensor heating element circuit malfunction. **
or
Downstream oxygen sensor voltage shorted to ground (tested after key off and at start to run) **
or
Downstream oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above the normal operating range. **
or
Neither rich nor lean condition detected from the downstream oxygen sensor. **
or
Downstream oxygen sensor heating element circuit malfunction. **
24
Throttle position sensor signal does not correlate to MAP sensor. **
or
Throttle position sensor input below the minimum acceptable voltage. **
or
Throttle position sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltage. **
27
Injector #1 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. **
or
Injector #2 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. **
or
Injector #3 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. **
or
Injector #4 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. **
or
Injector #5 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. (except 2.5L) **
or
Injector #6 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. (except 2.5L) **
or
Injector #7 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. (5.2L only) **
or
Injector #8 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal. (5.2L only) **
I'd also NOID the injectors - you're looking to see if they flash, not stay lit. I almost want to think you may have one hanging; again, if the light flashes the same on all of them, it's not electronic.
Plus - time to buy a set of plugs. Replace all of them, start the truck up, run it for no more than 10 minutes, then let it cool down and pull the plugs to get a clean read of the plug condition. EDIT: A video at
You DID check the gap for the plugs when you put them in, right?
Also, did you check the layout of the spark plug wires? You may have a problem there - but with the TPS/MAP sensors disagreeing, and with the O2 sensor acting up, I bet that's way down on the list.
RwP
