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91 obd1 codes repair protocol?

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Old Jan 11, 2020 | 11:31 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
First off, how many miles on the 3.9? Problems on a 250,000 engine will be different than the ones on a 50,000 mile engine. The low operating temperature lead to one of three problems. Most likely is a failed or too cool thermostat. Second would be a worn timing chain set. Lastly, I've seen burnt valves cause an engine to have weird temperature issues.

It only has 151,000 so i hope its not a major thing. Thanks
 
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Old Jan 11, 2020 | 11:38 AM
  #22  
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To my mind the replacement of the sensors which are or were a few years ago only $10 each, my 94 has two right next to the thermostat. So it's probably a good idea just to replace the sensor after you put in the new thermostat.
Also my 94 has about the same number of miles and I have the 180 thermostat because these 3.9's tend to run hot when the miles are that high. Which is why I suspect the sensor.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2020 | 11:43 AM
  #23  
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Hey, thanks for that. the code 17 does point to a coolant sensor so yes, i will replace it as well. From what you say, i guess i'll ask for the 180 thermostat too.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2020 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by KevinSandidge
It only has 151,000 so i hope its not a major thing. Thanks

It depends on what you consider major. I suspect your timing chain needs replacement. An afternoon job if you're handy with tools. Before you tear the engine apart, do this to make sure it's your timing chain. Rotate the engine until the timing mark on your harmonic balancer is at TDC. Use a white marker like soapstone to mark it's location. Pop the distributor cap off and mark the location of the rotor tab. Use the soapstone. Do NOT use pencil. The graphite can wreak havoc inside the cap. Have someone watch the rotor. Put a socket on the bolt in the middle of the balancer and slowly rotate the engine backwards. Have your helper tell you when the rotor begins to move. If it moves immediately, great. I'll bet the balancer goes 10 degrees or more before it moves the rotor. That's the slop in your timing chain.

I'd say this is a medium skill set repair. Mostly basic hand tools but you will need a harmonic balancer puller to keep from destroying it. Beyond that, just hand tools, parts and some sealants. You don't HAVE to drop the oil pan but I think it's easier to do a good repair by doing so. If you replace the timing chain, you have to pull a bunch of other stuff parts so since the labor is already done, I'd replace the belts, hoses (especially that darn little bypass hose), the water pump, thermostat and put fresh coolant in it. Once you're done, you'll have great heat, better fuel economy and it will act like a new engine.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2020 | 02:55 PM
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thanks but i have no money nor skills to do all that. i've spent too much on it as is. soon i'll need a clutch and/or transmission, i heed at least one valve seat replaced, it leaks and burns oil. Just going to have to drive it till it konks out, i'm afraid. At that point, i'll start driving my '94 again When that one goes, i'll have to ride my motorized bicycle and after that, public transpo
 
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 01:00 PM
  #26  
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Hello,

Wanted to thank all of you for keeping me sane and focused. Yalls input has been invaluable for me on more than one occasion. As for the coolant issue, my mech buddy replaced the thermostat with a 180 degree one, as per your recommendation. He replaced the coolant sensor as well. None of those codes came back!

Of course now i have something else going on and i guess i need to start a new thread for that. Thanks again guys!
 
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