93 Dodge Dakota cranks but wont start.
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The special socket for the oil sender is a thin wall socket. I think a normal deep socket won't fit between the outer wall of the sender and the intake. I may be wrong.
As I remember the procedure for the crank sensor (which I did not follow) they tell you to remove the pass side tire and the mud drape and go in that way. I did it from above and the outside. The heat shield on teh fire wall scraped the hell out of my left hand it took 6-8 months for the purple to go away. If I had to do it again I would take off the tire... I have the 94 3.9L
As I remember the procedure for the crank sensor (which I did not follow) they tell you to remove the pass side tire and the mud drape and go in that way. I did it from above and the outside. The heat shield on teh fire wall scraped the hell out of my left hand it took 6-8 months for the purple to go away. If I had to do it again I would take off the tire... I have the 94 3.9L
Last edited by onemore94dak; Mar 29, 2020 at 05:21 PM.
Veteran
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 389
Likes: 19
From: central Iowa
. I took your advice and opened the distributor and removed the camshaft sensor plate and then closed up the distributor. When I put the key in the Run position the test light for the ignition coil came on for 3 seconds and went out. However when I cranked the engine the test light did not come back on. Also I got an error code 54. Based on your earlier input I assume the camshaft sensor is good but the crankshaft sensor is bad. However if that were the case why is there no error code 11 to indicate a bad crankshaft sensor. I assume my next task is to replace the crankshaft sensor do you agree? Louis.
Steve
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Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 389
Likes: 19
From: central Iowa
Well my truck is back on the road. Starting with checking for power at engine compartment fuse C & D I checked for 12v at the PCM pin 9 with ignition on. That was present so I went then to check for 12v from fuse D at ASD relay position B and it was there, but it was not at PCM pin 3 like it should have been so I began tearing into the wiring harness between the cowl and the fuse / relay box under the hood looking for the quad splice in the red / white wire.
Found the problem just underneath the box, the splice was totally broken, complete garbage. Added short section of wire and soldered it all back up with heat shrink and electrical tape and then retaped the whole length of the harness from the box to the cowl.
I was worried that my PCM was kaput but fortunately it was fine. Also the spare PCM I bought several years back seems to be fine too, but the one I got recently from another JY seems to have a glitch of some sort, there's a miss in one cylinder...so it goes back before the 30 day period is up, for a credit. I was also worried that something bad had happened because the ground wire from the harness new the relay box under the hood was loose for some reason, and in the past if that's not tight the truck wont start.
This truck has been idle for a while, glad to finally get back to the problem and get it resolved. I was especially happy to find that the AC was cooling down to 40f cuz it's not been very nice here recently and I do like working AC. Time to take it down to the shop and put on the summer tires.
Steve
Found the problem just underneath the box, the splice was totally broken, complete garbage. Added short section of wire and soldered it all back up with heat shrink and electrical tape and then retaped the whole length of the harness from the box to the cowl.
I was worried that my PCM was kaput but fortunately it was fine. Also the spare PCM I bought several years back seems to be fine too, but the one I got recently from another JY seems to have a glitch of some sort, there's a miss in one cylinder...so it goes back before the 30 day period is up, for a credit. I was also worried that something bad had happened because the ground wire from the harness new the relay box under the hood was loose for some reason, and in the past if that's not tight the truck wont start.
This truck has been idle for a while, glad to finally get back to the problem and get it resolved. I was especially happy to find that the AC was cooling down to 40f cuz it's not been very nice here recently and I do like working AC. Time to take it down to the shop and put on the summer tires.
Steve
Veteran
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 389
Likes: 19
From: central Iowa
The special socket for the oil sender is a thin wall socket. I think a normal deep socket won't fit between the outer wall of the sender and the intake. I may be wrong.
As I remember the procedure for the crank sensor (which I did not follow) they tell you to remove the pass side tire and the mud drape and go in that way. I did it from above and the outside. The heat shield on teh fire wall scraped the hell out of my left hand it took 6-8 months for the purple to go away. If I had to do it again I would take off the tire... I have the 94 3.9L
As I remember the procedure for the crank sensor (which I did not follow) they tell you to remove the pass side tire and the mud drape and go in that way. I did it from above and the outside. The heat shield on teh fire wall scraped the hell out of my left hand it took 6-8 months for the purple to go away. If I had to do it again I would take off the tire... I have the 94 3.9L
Steve
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Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
??
No evidence of spark. Tested the fuel rail and there was no pressure. I pulled the fuel pump relay and jumped the relay contacts and fuel pressure was then normal. I then decided to check for error codes using the check engine light. But that light never comes on. The bulb is good. I then decided to check the fuses. I turned the ignition switch to run and tested fuses. All were good except f13 which i think powers the lights on the instrument panel including the check engine light. My Haynes manual seems to show that the ignition switch supplies power to f13 and the asd relay when in the run position. The asd relay seems to get power but not f13. Im currently trying to drop the fuse panel inside the truck to examine the wiring to f13. There are two bolts holding the panel in place. The bottom one came out ok but the upper one just spins in place. Im still trying to get the upper one loose but i thought i would check here for suggestions. Thanks for any advice you give.
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Joined: Sep 2013
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hi I have a 93 dakota with the 5.2 it cranks but will not start I've put in new crank sensor composition ingredients sensor cap rotor when I turn the key to on there is no fuel pump bypassed it as well as the and now have fuel pump but still no start any ideas on how I should proceed would be much appreciated
