Hey everyone,

New to owning a Dakota and new to the forums.
I just bought a 1996 Dakota, 5.2 4x4 automatic SLT

I think I'm having a grounding issue because my radio isn't getting power, when I open the driver door the dome light does not light, my under hood light is not illuminating, my ignition switch halo light isn't illuminating, and my headlights are not turning on.

I know the dome light works because it flips on when I open the passenger door. I know the driver door switch is working because the buzzer sound is working properly. The driving lights work and brights work so I know atleast part of the headlight switch is working and the bulbs are working. The radio clock is getting power but not the radio. I've checked fuses and those checked out. On page 8W-44-4 of the shop manual it shows that these are all pigtailed together in one way or another but I can't square it away.

Any thoughts or help would be greatly appreciated.

 

You're starting in the right direction.

Step 0 - follow the wire splices to make sure they've not failed on your truck from the battery into the cab.

Step 1 - Try to isolate just one of them. Let's tackle, say, the door light switch.

The left switch is actually two switches in one; it could easily be that the overhead light part is failing, but the buzzer part is working. I'd shoot some contact cleaner in there and work it several times to see if that helps it any.

Step 2 - Headlights. You then need to check and see if the 12V gets into the multi function switch or not; if it does, the headlight switch is working but the multi function switch isn't. If, however, the power never gets to the dimmer portion of the MFS, you won't have any low or high beams; again, isolate and check. See, for instance, page 8W-50-4 for that portion. And you say the brights work. Do the brights work, or the flash to pass work? If the brights truly work (i.e., they stay bright), check the OUTPUT of the dimmer / multifunction switch and see if that's what's failed. (And it may have two blown low beam filaments, ya know; it's an old truck.)

Step 3 - Underhood - that can be as easy as the ground at the light is bad; I have to fight that every so often on my 1988. But before I worried too much, I'd split the bullet connector and make sure I had 12V going to the underhood light. If not, time to back track to the 5V constant fuse. (I bet that's good, since that's what runs the clock on the radio. If, however, the clock resets when you turn the ignition off, that may be it.)

Step 4 - Radio. I'd definately check the grounding strap inside the dash; it's, what, 24 years old now? Time for some oxidation to build up; won't hurt to loosen and tighten the nuts and bolts a few times to break oxidation. Then time to check that you're getting 12V into both switched and constant 12 on the radio.

RwP

 

RalphP this is some great info. I'll have to dig in to your suggestions on Sunday afternoon. Saturday is the Mrs's birthday and I don't think she'll appreciate me wrenching on the truck.

You are correct that I am not getting true high beams. I was just getting them on the flash to pass on the turn signal stalk.

The radio clock is keeping time so I imagine that 5v fuse is holding well, but I'll put eyes on it while I'm working on all this.

P.S. - I see your in Northwest Louisiana..I'm originally from the eastern side. Tangipahoa Parish..Amite City specifically.

Thanks again for the help. I'll keep you posted.

 

I tore in to these electrical problems and I found the culprit of the non working headlights. You can see in the photos a previous owner wired in something (my best guess is an alarm system) and they grabbed power anywhere they could find it. One of the places was out of the back of the plug that plugs in to the headlight switch...over time I'm guessing something arched and shorted causing what you see here.

Good news is that once I unplugged the clearly burnt plug out of the back of the switch my dome light started working on the driver's side switch and the halo light around the ignition popped on.
So those are functioning properly. Still no radio or under hood light. The new plug comes in the mail in a few days so I'll wire that in and see how we fare.

 

That's not too uncommon in these trucks, irrespective of additional wiring.

It's due to the bean counters saving a couple of relays ...

I'd install a relay harness up front. Also, that headlight switch is toast, even if it's working for now. I'd replace IT also.

DO remember, solder and heat shrink, don't just crimp.

Also, they sell a dielectric grease - or "bulb grease" - that would be highly recommended on the connector, to avoid oxidation over the years.

Hrm ... I like the for one to point people to for a relay harness; I THINK you may have to repin from 9007 to 9004, but I could be wrong on that. If you're into hot solder, you can build your own instead. I did, but again, not everyone is, so the Putco works for those that prefer to just buy one that works pretty much out of box.

RwP

 

I got the new switch in the mail so I went about getting all the odd additional wiring.
Attached is a photo of everything that was wired in and more than half of this was no longer connected to anything.
I have fixed everything they cut and put everything back to stock for now.

Radio still isn't working and the under hood light isn't working (I think its the bulb)

 

Radio power and underhood light both run off the 5A keep alive (well, usually 5A!). Depending on the year, it's either in the PDC (Power Distribution Center) under the hood, or in the fuse box under the dash.

From the 1996 FSM downloaded from the sticky here, page 8W-49-3, it's fuse 2 in the PDC, and yes, 5A. Check that fuse. Also check 12V into the underhood light; make sure it's getting TO the bulb.

(Most radios use the constant 12V to run them, and the switched 12V to turn them on and off. Weird, I know.)

RwP

 

Hey guys,

Could use your thoughts...the headlights intermittently go out.
It is as if they are losing power/ground and they cut out. When this happens my dash lights stay on, my factory fog lights stay on, and I can flash the brights.
A previous owner replaced the turn signal stalk at some point so it could be a bad ground in there I'm thinking or....it could be the switch because I did NOT take Ralph's advice and replace the switch when I was replacing everything in there because it looked fine and undamaged...that may have been a mistake

 

Sounds like the circuit breaker on the switch.

DO remember that "Flash to Pass" is a completely separate circuit and separate fuse to the dimmer switch; so you're not flashing brights (it actually flashes BOTH filaments!) but flashing to pass.

I'd replace that switch due to its age - then I'd also add that relay harness up front I keep harping on.

I built my own; but for those that are worried about doing hot solder ;
Putco's not the ONLY source, BTW - but theirs is a quality product and had a nice Amazon link, so I use it as an example. It's also designed for higher wattage high beams, so there you go.

I'd also consider a set of NightBreaker headlight bulbs for more light; but that's because I like to see at night.

RwP