so i have purchased my first dodge vehicle in august and it needs some work... one thing that needs to be worked on on it is the front right control arm.... i went on CARiD an purchased one.. today the new control arm showed up in the mail can someone help me find step by step instructions on how to replace the old control arm with the new control arm also... the new control arm came with a [color=#111111]grease zerk, is there any other grease zerk, on the truck (the truck is stock beside for the power rear window and the interior light and the power steering pump that i had to replace)
other than replacing the power steering pump which was fairly simple this will be the biggest project i have ever done on a vehicle

LINK to CARiD to where i bought the control arm:
https://www.carid.com/moog/r-series-...-rk623221.html
model number for control arm:
RK623221

the truck is
1994 Dodge Dakota 5.2L V8 Magnum Engine
Rear Wheel Drive and it has power steering

 

Plan on replacing the other three control arms, or at least re-ball joint and re-bush a set they others are just as old.

Step by step instructions? You can pull down the 95 or 96 FSM from the links in the FAQ message, and the instructions are the same.

Do plan on getting it aligned afterwards.

Moog also sells the left upper control arm; I'd do that same time.

BIG caveats:

1) Use good high quality jack stands to support the truck. If in doubt, get the next larger size. Don't do Harbor Freight; they've had a few of them pop apart at welds after having to recall the ones with teeth too short to properly hold a vehicle.

2) Use a good floor jack. It's very VERY helpful in lifting the lower control arm / spindle assembly to meet the upper control arm.

3) I find that the easiest way to release the ball joint from the spindle is to use a tool like this one at Harbor Freight (note: There's several other vendors! This is just easy to link to!) 3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator (harborfreight.com)

4) Use a torque wrench to set the castle nut on the ball joint. Then TIGHTEN (never LOOSEN!) to get it to line up enough to get the cotter pin in. NEVER EVER LOOSEN TO PUT A COTTER PIN IN!

5) Don't rush it.

6) Examine the brakes and all other fittings. The sway bar end links are easy enough to do and won't affect alignment; the lower control arm will affect alignment.

7) Examine the tie rods also; they're old and wearing.

I'd budget and save to rebuild the suspension and redo the brakes all around; all new wheel cylinders and calipers (or quality reman'ed), new rotors/hubs up front, invest in a bearing packer, and use the good quality grease (I'm fond of moly lube myself, but I'm an olde phart ... )

The intermediate shaft (from the rack to the steering column) is also wearing with age; I have a write up on how I made one for my 1988, steps will be the same for a 1994.

And last but not least - ENJOY! These are nice trucks to drive around in, and they're very useful.

RwP

 

if your willing and if possible would you be able to text or call me on this number (will be below) so if need be i have any questions in the middle of the process i can possibly give you a phone call

Phone number removed. Unless you like getting spam phone calls, not a good idea.

 

Quick Infosec lesson - never EVER put your phone number out in a public message, unless you just enjoy everyone spammer and scammer in the world calling you.

Now, no; I have to work for a living.

But I bet there's YouTubes on upper control arm swaps for like B body and E body Mopars; it's the same design, steps are the same (parts are different, but everything else is the same.)

OH! I almost forgot a gotcha ... on the shaft, one side will have a crosshatch pattern at the bolt holes, one not. Put the crosshatch TOWARDS the frame; that's what holds it so it won't get knocked about.

RwP

 

I honestly dont mind putting my number out its easy enough for me to change my number.. also by any chance can you tell me more about the crosshatch like its locations and what not possible some pictures?

 

It's at the bolt holes; can you not look at the control arm?

RwP

 

look iv yet to get the tire off the truck to take a look at anything on there im just going by what the mechanic at the shop near my house said when i got a pre purchase inspection i am infact handcapped so its harder for me to do most things then it might be for you but ethire way i have to get this done i dont have the money to have someone else do any be able to afford to eat

 

I meant the NEW control arm ...

You won't see the cross hatch if the old one is correctly installed; it's against the frame.

But if you look at ... the control arm shaft is upside down. It'd have to be turned 180* to latch properly.

RwP

 

Yeah I have no clue what your talking about

 

Thanks for the detailed explanation - one question though... for the Upper Control Arm the 3/4" tool you referenced is for pressed-in ball joints, but on the Dakota UCA many had the threaded-in version (and from what I've read they are quite a bear to get out after 150k+ miles of rust!).

This is a special challenge now because the left-side UCA bought by the original poster has been discontinued (listed as unavailable on rockauto, carid, or amazon now), so it seems the only choice is to rebuild the existing ones. This will be my first time doing any front suspension work, and the process seemed daunting enough assuming I was going to be using fully pre-assembled UCAs. The thought of doing that part of the task (and the multiple specialized tools needed) makes it a bit more intimidating.

Unfortunately, I recently contacted a local shop for an estimate for parts & labor for upper & lower control arm ball joints and bushings, inner & outer tie rod ends, and an alignment, and the grand total was $2851! So unless I can figure out how to do most of this myself, it's never going to happen...