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I don't drive it a lot but it has gotten noticeably worse so I pulled the trigger on a new reman Cardone unit from RA..They are the cheapest Ebay has them for $20+ dollars more. Once you get the core back you save another $45. There are a few used ones on ebay for cheap if you want to take the chance.
I got a new drill bit set and when the new ECM gets here I am hoping I can get the old one off without damaging the plug. My plan is to hold the head with needle nose vise grips, drill it out from very small until I get the hole big enough to separate the shaft from the head. With any luck that is all that is necessary. Went with cheapest shipping so it may be a while.
Last edited by onemore94dak; 07-10-2021 at 07:56 PM.
okiedokie. It cam in the box was beat to hell. The inner box was OK but there ws really not5hing to stop it bouncing around and getting beat up.
I drill out the bolt. 3 sizes from 1/8 up to 3/8. The needlenose vice grips worked fine I had to put it on the perimeter of the flange for the last two sizes.
The dealer parts guy took the old computer in to ask a mechanic about the bolt and it is a 6mmx1.0 thread pitch. I ended up getting a bolt from a bolt shop after I tried the largest one at Autozone which was 45mm long. So the correct bolt would be a 6x1.0x55mm flange bolt. I could not get a flange bolt so I went with cap bolt and washer as pictured, same size.
The picture of the plug shows the 3 tabs. If you need to pry on yours look for those to pry on (the outer two as the middle one tucks in) I did not know what exactly I was doing and damaged the plastic shield on the plug.
It drives nice seems to have more get up and go and reverse somehow works better. I've only backed up a couple time but it usually lags and doesn't jump into R. Now it seems to jump into R what I would describe as normally.
Pictures, 1. 3 tabs on the plug. 2. the computer with the bolt top drilled off. 3. the new bolt (note to self DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN)
I'll let you guys know if they accept the core. They dido on that cracked TB.
At that point the puter is protected by being mounted The outer box was crushed in two directions so badly fedex had to create a new label for it as the original one could not be read. There was no packing materiel in the outer box to hold the inner box and none in the inner box to hold the computer still. The inner box was not crushed so I am hoping that sturdiness you refer to works in my favor here.
OK the idle has started to run low again. I expect this means the computer learned that from the rest of my sensors. I know I can increase the idle setting with my MT2500. I need to know what sensors are informing the computer about my RPMs? Note I have non dealer supplied Crank Shaft sensor and the cam sensor if from NAPA. I have the FSM and I have not got a clue what to look under and I don't feel like reading it all I looked in chapter 9 under the 3.9 and none of the titles helped.
I am going by the sound of the motor struggling. I've known the tach was off since I bought it. It used to sit at 400-600 after I did the plenum and replaced all the sensors. now it's down around 0-200. The MT 2500 reported 800rpm. It wasn't running well. I put it up to 1000 and it increased speed and sounded right. I actually found that mode on te unit by accident. But I went back because I was unsure. That is just before I borked the computer bolt and replaced it. I think I was trying to take it off to clean the connections when I realized the bolt would not come out.
Edit- I suspect my MT2500 isn't all that it should be.
Last edited by onemore94dak; 07-22-2021 at 10:01 PM.
07-03-2021, 08:14 PM
The outer box was crushed in two directions so badly fedex had to create a new label for it as the original one could not be read. There was no packing materiel in the outer box to hold the inner box and none in the inner box to hold the computer still. The inner box was not crushed so I am hoping that sturdiness you refer to works in my favor here.
