Ok so I just got a 96 dakota on trade. Got it knowing the turn signals/hazards didnt work. Didnt know the brake lights power ran through the turn signal switch so I found out I dont have those either. My trucks a v6,4x4, factory 5 speed truck. The dash was replaced at some point before and it was swapped with an auto dash from a different year. It has a tachometer that works. Everything on the dash works. I have a abs light and a parking brake light on. The cel comes and goes for an o2 sensor. The turn signal switch has been replaced with one for a 1996 and it doesnt work. I have power going in but nothing coming out. Does anyone know when they changed the dash wiring? I need to get a turn signal switch for the year of the dash, not the truck. Thanks in advance

 

They changed it several times, alas.

HOWEVER.

If it plugs into the multi function switch, it should be good there.

If power goes in, but doesn't come out, it's probably the MFS itself, even if swapped.

1991-1993 uses a 4443924 MFS; 1994-1996 uses 4728424 . So, the change is between 1993 and 1994. (Both numbers pulled from the parts lists I downloaded from the FAQ message here.)

OTOH -

Checking replacement aftermarket parts, intermittent wiper switch is 1991-1996; non-intermittent is 1991-2000 (!!!).

So that's probably not the problem.

How did you check for voltage in and out of the switch?

In the FAQ is a link to the 1996 FSM; page 8W-52-4 has the wiring diagram for the switch itself.

Page 8W-30-31 has the pinout of the multi function switch; I'd try jumping contacts to see if you can get power to the brake lights in the wiring harness first. If so, then wiring to the back is good.

If not, then the problem is NOT there, but I'd be following the wiring in section 8W-52 to the back to see where it comes apart at.

(I gather you don't have front turn signals either? Or just the rear turn signals don't work? Do the front turn signals light up with hazard on by any chance? This is to help troubleshoot where the problem is.)

RwP

 

Correct I have no turns/hazards anywhere. Nothing comes on on the dash when I try to turn either on. I'm just going by what my mechanic told me. He said they tried both intermittent and non for a 96 and both showed power going in and not coming out. From what you've said I think I should try one from a 93 and back, right? Maybe I get one from a 92 just to be safe. I have no clue how they tested for power. I do have running lights front and rear which runs off the same bulbs as the turn and brake lights so I dont believe it's a wiring issue. He said the wires are run to different spots on the connector to the dash than to the MFS(if that makes any sense).

 

Well several faults there.

1) It's not the same wires; and it could be a wiring problem before the MFS.

2) Grab the 1996 FSM from here, and start checking yourself. I don't like the way you're describing it, and the aftermarket MFS switches are used 1991-1996 or later. (Before 1991, it's a totally different design column - trust me, it will NOT fit the older Gen1 dash wiring!)

3) You may find it's something silly and simple. Like the wiring to the fuse block is loose. Or it's not even plugged in properly!

Also, do you have intermittent wipers? If so, do the wipers work? (BIG hint - they're the same switch assembly for wipers / hazards / turn ... )

Won't be the first time I've seen something silly like "both blinkers bad, and brake light switch bad" causing problems.

Shucks, check the brake light switch; if it's broke, you'd lose brake lights. And if the flashers in the fuse block are bad (open), you won't have turns or hazards - or both!

(I'm of the "They're old enough, buy some LED compatible flashers and replace both" mindset myself, but it's not my money; may want to buy one at AutoZone/Advance/NAPA/whatever and try it in both positions.)

EDIT: Just thought of this - you have the cab mounted center high mount stop light (CHMSL), don't you? Does it light up? If not, whereas you may have problems with the MFS, that's not why brakes aren't working.

RwP

 

Yes, the switch that was on the truck when I got it was intermittent wipers and they worked fine. I checked all fuses and relays before sending it to the shop to make sure it wasnt that. Not sure about the cab light, I've got a bed cap on it so I cant see that in plain view. I'll have to check in the morning. My mechanic said they spent hours diagnosing and the MFS was the only thing they could come up with to be the issue. I guess I will have to dive back into the wiring myself and see what I can figure on. Now I remember why I hate wiring problems. And it has new leds in all bulbs in the rear.

 

Again, it's time to pull a test light, a multi meter, and the wiring from the FSM, and chase it down yourself.

I'd check that CHMSL to see if it comes on; also, be sure to check the white-tan wire out of the stop light switch to the multi function switch pin 14.

Be sure to check the pink/dark blue wire going into the stop light switch; it should be hot at 12V all the time. If not, you won't get any brake lights.

If you jump the two wires at the connector (pink/dark blue and white/tan), you should have 12V at the white/tan into the MFS, and back out both the brown/yellow and dark green/yellow wires. Those are to the rear brake/turn signals.

You should also measure something into both the pink and the red/white wires; those are the hazard and turn signal flashers in, respectively. Pink all the time, red/white only with ignition on.

That's where I'd be checking first.

After that, it's kind of duck soup to follow the wiring diagram and make sure the switch is carrying voltage through it when it's manipulated. Pink to all of brown/yellow, dark green/yellow, brown, and light green with hazards turned on. Hazards off, left turn signal should be red/white to light green and dark green/yellow. Right turn signal to brown and brown/yellow. Both off, white/tan to the brown/yellow and dark green/yellow wires.

Back prod the connector so you can manipulate the switch, but do all this testing with the battery DISCONNECTED from the truck (NEVER measure continuity or resistance on a powered circuit!)

That testing will be illuminating as to where the problem is.

Next, follow the wiring to the rear of the bed. IF you have a trailer light adapter, disconnect it and bypass it (those can screw you up and you won't even realize it's doing it!) If that fixes it, well, there's your problem. (Yes, I know the tail lights work through it. Those are different wires, different connections in the housing. Not beyond belief that ONE or TWO can work and all the others not, or ONE or TWO can fail and the others still work ... )

RwP

 

Ok. Looks like I know how I'm spending the weekend. I appreciate all your insight. I wasnt sure I would even get a response. Anyways thank you for the help.