My Truck is a Transmission Killer - HELP!
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Clayton MI
In the FAQ there is a auto transmission manual you can download. About halfway down in PDF downloadable section.
I assume it runs by hydraulics and pressure. I know the OD solenoid is electric but not activated by computer. I'm pretty sure you won't have a check valve between the trans and cooler. You'll need a special tool to disconnect them from where the hoses go into the radiator. It isn't very expensive I had to modify the one I bought for it to work. I forget how but it was about not being able to get it into position because of extra materiel on the tool being in the way.
I assume it runs by hydraulics and pressure. I know the OD solenoid is electric but not activated by computer. I'm pretty sure you won't have a check valve between the trans and cooler. You'll need a special tool to disconnect them from where the hoses go into the radiator. It isn't very expensive I had to modify the one I bought for it to work. I forget how but it was about not being able to get it into position because of extra materiel on the tool being in the way.
On the full size trucks, O/D and TCC are indeed controlled by the PCM. Are the Daks that much different?
Champion
Joined: Sep 2013
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I bought the little aluminum one, that was just one size, and it worked a treat. It also works on the other quick connect fittings on the truck. The plastic 'multi-tool' I tried first..... yeah, I couldn't get that one between the fitting, and the radiator... So, another trip to the parts store.
On the full size trucks, O/D and TCC are indeed controlled by the PCM. Are the Daks that much different?
On the full size trucks, O/D and TCC are indeed controlled by the PCM. Are the Daks that much different?
I had to take several trips to the parts store and finally got a set at HF made of aluminum which I made work.
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Registered User
Joined: Jan 2023
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Jacked it up and did some stuff a minute ago. Here's pics:
Cooler line connection (driver's side) ^
Cooler line condition (driver's side) ^
More cooler line conditions (both) ^
Cooler line connection (passenger side) ^
Transmission fluid radiator ^
Condition of transmission fluid after disconnecting a line. Almost pure black, super burnt. Is this 100% proof my transmission is overheating and the cooler needs fixed? I was unable to find a check valve of any kind.
How should I fix the cooler, if there is something wrong with it? Replace both lines and the cooler itself as well? I'm assuming that will require me to take off the grille.
Cooler line connection (driver's side) ^
Cooler line condition (driver's side) ^
More cooler line conditions (both) ^
Cooler line connection (passenger side) ^
Transmission fluid radiator ^
Condition of transmission fluid after disconnecting a line. Almost pure black, super burnt. Is this 100% proof my transmission is overheating and the cooler needs fixed? I was unable to find a check valve of any kind.
How should I fix the cooler, if there is something wrong with it? Replace both lines and the cooler itself as well? I'm assuming that will require me to take off the grille.
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Joined: Jan 2023
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https://photos.app.goo.gl/e35yspoB9sM2FYy2A
Put them all in an album that I'll add new photos to. Let me know if you can't see these!
Put them all in an album that I'll add new photos to. Let me know if you can't see these!
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,483
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From: Clayton MI
Not seein' a check valve there, and it looks like any connectors on yours are just threaded. Makes it easier, sorta. I highly recommend hitting 'em with some chemicals before trying to separate them.... if you even need to. Think back-flushing the coolers would be a real good idea.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Clayton MI
With them disconnected from the trans, just pump some variety of solvent thru the system, both directions, a couple times. You can fill a plastic bottle with your chemical of choice, use some rubber hose, or whatever you can come up with to seal it to the trans line, squeeze the bottle to force the fluid thru. Or, if you happen to have a small pump, you would use that. The idea is to force fluid thru the system in one direction, and then the other, until your fluid comes out clean in both directions.
When your trans blows up, a bunch of that crap ends up in the cooler. If you don't get it out, you end up with either a clogged cooler, or, the crap that was in the cooler, making it back to your new trans, and destroying it.
When your trans blows up, a bunch of that crap ends up in the cooler. If you don't get it out, you end up with either a clogged cooler, or, the crap that was in the cooler, making it back to your new trans, and destroying it.
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Alright, I'll buy some mineral spirits and do that when I get the chance. I'll let you know what comes of it. Do you think a new cooler is in order, considering it's age, or will a back-flush work just fine?
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From: Clayton MI
Depends on what you see coming out of it. If you can't get flow thru it, then yeah, definitely replace. If it's really nasty, and you see chunky stuff, replacement might just be the better idea.