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Headlights Go Out

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Old Jan 24, 2024 | 10:22 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by bronze
Would this be the switch you're talking about (see #18/#19)?

#19 is the problem child. This puppy right here.



I found the hard way, the cover that is missing will NOT use a 1998 cover. It has to be a 1996. My 1997 Dakota is a chimera of different years. I'm having issues with my wipers at times. The switch does a LOT of things and eventually wears out.
 

Last edited by ol' grouch; Jan 24, 2024 at 10:23 AM. Reason: i kant spel wurth a durn
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Old Jan 24, 2024 | 10:31 AM
  #12  
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So you're talking about the switch at the outside end of the stem...where you turn the wipers on and off. The parts manual says see Group 8. Just gotta figure out where to find Group 8 in the manual.

So I'll be checking the ground first then as you suggest hit the brights next time the headlights go out to see what happens. What is the best way to test that switch if need be? Continuity?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2024 | 10:40 AM
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I guess they just call it a turn signal switch even though it switches a lot more than that. Anyway, this is what I found on RockAuto for my '93. Looks like the entire unit plugs in/out.
Question: What's the difference between "intermittent wipers" and "pulse wipers"?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...Lm%2FyKpS0GJb5
 
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Old Jan 24, 2024 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by bronze
I guess they just call it a turn signal switch even though it switches a lot more than that. Anyway, this is what I found on RockAuto for my '93. Looks like the entire unit plugs in/out.
Question: What's the difference between "intermittent wipers" and "pulse wipers"?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...Lm%2FyKpS0GJb5
That's it. It's fairly easy to swap out. I always disconnect the battery and pull the air bag fuses, just to be safe. There's a little Torx screw in the middle underneath, then 4 itty bitty screws or bolts holding the cover together top and bottom. Remove the tilt stem and those bolt bolts and the cover comes off. You can get it off with the stem in there but you risk breaking the upper cover. Then there is one torx screw holding the wire harness into the switch and then 2 more holding the switch in.

As for the difference between intermittent and pulse, it's the name. At 30 years old, yours is probably due for replacement.

 
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Old Jan 24, 2024 | 12:21 PM
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Not that I want to add to your complexity... I forget if you added the PUTCO relay to the headlights when you changed out the switch. I mention it because after I put mine in the radio display goes dark when I turn the lights on. I haven't bothered to check since my old OE radio system is intermittently dysfunctional and it could just be a new symptom in it rather than the PUTCO relay.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2024 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
That's it. It's fairly easy to swap out. I always disconnect the battery and pull the air bag fuses, just to be safe. There's a little Torx screw in the middle underneath, then 4 itty bitty screws or bolts holding the cover together top and bottom. Remove the tilt stem and those bolt bolts and the cover comes off. You can get it off with the stem in there but you risk breaking the upper cover. Then there is one torx screw holding the wire harness into the switch and then 2 more holding the switch in.

As for the difference between intermittent and pulse, it's the name. At 30 years old, yours is probably due for replacement.
You know, I think the same way with a 31 year old truck. If it aint broken it wont be long before it is. So even if it doesn't fix the problem at hand, it likely prevents one that is coming up soon. I did a bit of research and it backs up what you're saying. One common symptom of headlights going out is this switch. Not sure I understand why the headlights go out when the only thing that switch operates are the brights (headlight switch is separate from the turn signal switch).

I looked for the headlight ground and I can't find it. Says it's on the left fender shield rear of battery. I don't know what a fender shield is but I know what a fender is so I searched all over and couldn't find anything. I found three ground points on the fender, turned the headlights on and disconnected all three and the lights never went out so those aren't the grounds. My wiring is generally in pretty good shape as it relates to corrosion because it's a southern car and garage kept. Owned it since brand new. I may just replace the dang signal switch. Yes, looks like a real easy job but think I'll need to get some security torx bits. If the problem rears its ugly head again then oh well. Good advice OG. Thx
 

Last edited by bronze; Jan 24, 2024 at 01:31 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2024 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bronze
You know, I think the same way with a 31 year old truck. If it aint broken it wont be long before it is. So even if it doesn't fix the problem at hand, it likely prevents one that is coming up soon. I did a bit of research and it backs up what you're saying. One common symptom of headlights going out is this switch. Not sure I understand why the headlights go out when the only thing that switch operates are the brights (headlight switch is separate from the turn signal switch).

I looked for the headlight ground and I can't find it. Says it's on the left fender shield rear of battery. I don't know what a fender shield is but I know what a fender is so I searched all over and couldn't find anything. I found three ground points on the fender, turned the headlights on and disconnected all three and the lights never went out so those aren't the grounds. My wiring is generally in pretty good shape as it relates to corrosion because it's a southern car and garage kept. Owned it since brand new. I may just replace the dang signal switch. Yes, looks like a real easy job but think I'll need to get some security torx bits. If the problem rears its ugly head again then oh well. Good advice OG. Thx


Like the older systems with the high beam switch on the floor, the power goes through the headlight switch to the dimmer switch then the respective beams. Your brake lights, at least on these older ones, go through the switch too. That way it tells one side or the other to flash.

My wipers when I sweep once to clear mist often won't park. I suspect my switch is headed south too.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2024 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
Like the older systems with the high beam switch on the floor, the power goes through the headlight switch to the dimmer switch then the respective beams. Your brake lights, at least on these older ones, go through the switch too. That way it tells one side or the other to flash.

My wipers when I sweep once to clear mist often won't park. I suspect my switch is headed south too.
31 years, 187,000 miles. I guess I have no room to complain, huh?

The switch is only $50ish dollars and will take 20 minutes to replace. Small price to pay for 31 years.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2024 | 02:12 PM
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Ordered a turn signal switch from RockAuto. $46 smackers plus another $12 for taxes and shipping. Got a WVE brand switch. Don't know much about them but researched them and they seem pretty solid (a USA company). Yes, you can find this switch for less but it's mostly Chinese junk or Dorman. Dorman is too hit or miss for my tastes. I'll pay extra for some peace of mind.

I'm replacing this switch for a few reasons. One, good chance it will resolve my problem. Two, even if it doesn't, the original switch has lived most of its useful life anyway. Three, I don't like the idea of my headlights going out of their own volition with no warning...so I have to take a stab at it. The reason I put ordering information in this post is because I think that is sometimes overlooked on these threads (not always). The parts we buy are very important. Too much junk out there to take a chance on. Our dearly departed Ralph was good about providing brand information as he experienced it. I found that to be very useful. I'm 2.5 years removed from sinking thousands into my Dakota and I can happily report I haven't had any trouble to this point with the components/parts that Ralph recommended. Others are pretty good about including brand info as well when it matters most..HY, 94, others. It's appreciated because it makes a difference.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2024 | 10:48 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by bronze
Ordered a turn signal switch from RockAuto. $46 smackers plus another $12 for taxes and shipping. Got a WVE brand switch. Don't know much about them but researched them and they seem pretty solid (a USA company). Yes, you can find this switch for less but it's mostly Chinese junk or Dorman. Dorman is too hit or miss for my tastes. I'll pay extra for some peace of mind.

I'm replacing this switch for a few reasons. One, good chance it will resolve my problem. Two, even if it doesn't, the original switch has lived most of its useful life anyway. Three, I don't like the idea of my headlights going out of their own volition with no warning...so I have to take a stab at it. The reason I put ordering information in this post is because I think that is sometimes overlooked on these threads (not always). The parts we buy are very important. Too much junk out there to take a chance on. Our dearly departed Ralph was good about providing brand information as he experienced it. I found that to be very useful. I'm 2.5 years removed from sinking thousands into my Dakota and I can happily report I haven't had any trouble to this point with the components/parts that Ralph recommended. Others are pretty good about including brand info as well when it matters most..HY, 94, others. It's appreciated because it makes a difference.

I wondered how this was coming along. I've got issues with my wipers not parking so my switch might get replaced pretty soon here.
 
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