Nothing seems off in fact it seems to be running better. I got 15+ mpg last tank and I feel less hesitation in pedal response. The new thing is something I have never heard on this truck before yet have heard on many others. When accelerating there is a winding noise. Winding is the only word that comes but ??? I suspect it has something to do with the trans. 42RH had it rebuilt (I think he exchanged them) about 8 years ago.

 

Tranny seems like an educated guess. Torque converter, perhaps?

 

It is definitely the trans. auto btw. It isn't even doing bad, 15 point something is more mpg than I usually get. I was just hoping someone understood what it was. I have heard other vehicle sound like this, brand new even, and they were fine. I just find it odd that I never had it before and now I do.

 

Wait long enough it will either go away or a newer noise will drown it out. That’s how my truck hangs.

 

Promise? Maybe I should start looking for a new vehicle just in case......

 

Speaking of the current health of our Daks, mine too is running as good as it has since I can ever remember. It absolutely purrs and the only noises it makes are the usual squeaks and rattles in the cab. I find them, eliminate them, and a new one pops up. LOL. The last thing I did was run some oil and fuel cleaners in it. I used a product called ATS (one for oil and one for fuel). Supposed to be great at breaking down carbon buildup. I ran a tank of fuel treatment first. Less knocking and it seems peppier (tho could be my imagination). Still checking fuel mileage but it's appearing it improved by 1 MPG possibly more. Then I ran the oil treatment. I change oil every 3,000 miles. It never gets black. It remains somewhat translucent. I can read the letters thru my dipstick. After running the oil treatment my oil was pitch black. So it was scouring something out of the engine. I burn about one quart per 3K miles so I'll check to see if that improves. Not expecting it to but who knows. Maybe there was carbon buildup around those piston rings that limited their effectiveness. I'm happy with burning only a quart/3K as it is. https://www.atschemicals.com/505-pour-ins/

 

I do not drive a lot. I change it a couple times a year. When I do I use a method some Aussie told me about. I drain the oil, the pout the plug back in. Add two new quarts and half a quart of diesel. Drive it for a day or so then drain it remove the filter and put in a new filter and new oil. I have been told that most of your motor flushes are basically diesel anyway. It works and seems like I get more out than 2.5 quarts when I go to drain that flush. I don't burn oil but it is black when I change it. Not gritty though.

 

Yesterday I drove it. Seems like the noise is around the pulley's up front. I think later I will try the white lithium spray lube. I checked the trans fluid. It may be low or it may be over filled. It was clean and red but it also had bubbles. FSM says that is either over or under fill. Anyone know how to find out w/o having to drop the pan?

 

Idler pulley? Mine made a subtle noise for awhile. Didn’t give it the attention it needed. Took a trip. Pulley disintegrated, belt came off, grabbed the upper radiator hose and ripped the top of the radiator out. Yemessee, SC. A $12 part turned into a $750 tow and repair. I consider an idler pulley a preventative maintenance item now. Gets changed periodically whether it needs it or not.

 

OK. I remembered I have a motor noise stethoscope so after spraying the lube I checked the alternator, idler, PS and AC pulleys. the AC unit is where the noise is coming from. Since it barely cools even when I fill it I probably need to rebuilt that system.
OK on the Auto transmission I checked the fluid cold just to see where it was son the stick. It was over the max fillmark it is suppoed to be filled too. Then I started it and warmed it up so my laser temp gauge said the trans down by the oil pan passenger side was over 180. That is the temp the manual says it needs to be. I set Ebrake and still stood on the brake pedal, shifted through all the gears back to N. Pulled the stick wiped it and dipped again. Still bubbles and still looks low.
So I need to know if anyone knows their 42RH is filled properly can tell me what level the fluid is when it is cold. I went to get a quart ($14.99! and only $33 for a gallon!) but I do not want to add it until I have some idea if this is an over fill or under fill situation. cause you know bubbles on the stick can indicate both of those things. I'm leaning towards low since it is mostly bubbles and little actual fluid when it is warmed up and it is below the max mark. .
The weird thing is the thing is shifting better and taking off faster.