Odd new noise
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: North Carolina
OK. I remembered I have a motor noise stethoscope so after spraying the lube I checked the alternator, idler, PS and AC pulleys. the AC unit is where the noise is coming from. Since it barely cools even when I fill it I probably need to rebuilt that system.
OK on the Auto transmission I checked the fluid cold just to see where it was son the stick. It was over the max fillmark it is suppoed to be filled too. Then I started it and warmed it up so my laser temp gauge said the trans down by the oil pan passenger side was over 180. That is the temp the manual says it needs to be. I set Ebrake and still stood on the brake pedal, shifted through all the gears back to N. Pulled the stick wiped it and dipped again. Still bubbles and still looks low.
So I need to know if anyone knows their 42RH is filled properly can tell me what level the fluid is when it is cold. I went to get a quart ($14.99! and only $33 for a gallon!) but I do not want to add it until I have some idea if this is an over fill or under fill situation. cause you know bubbles on the stick can indicate both of those things. I'm leaning towards low since it is mostly bubbles and little actual fluid when it is warmed up and it is below the max mark. .
The weird thing is the thing is shifting better and taking off faster.
OK on the Auto transmission I checked the fluid cold just to see where it was son the stick. It was over the max fillmark it is suppoed to be filled too. Then I started it and warmed it up so my laser temp gauge said the trans down by the oil pan passenger side was over 180. That is the temp the manual says it needs to be. I set Ebrake and still stood on the brake pedal, shifted through all the gears back to N. Pulled the stick wiped it and dipped again. Still bubbles and still looks low.
So I need to know if anyone knows their 42RH is filled properly can tell me what level the fluid is when it is cold. I went to get a quart ($14.99! and only $33 for a gallon!) but I do not want to add it until I have some idea if this is an over fill or under fill situation. cause you know bubbles on the stick can indicate both of those things. I'm leaning towards low since it is mostly bubbles and little actual fluid when it is warmed up and it is below the max mark. .
The weird thing is the thing is shifting better and taking off faster.
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Champion
Joined: Sep 2013
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It is a very distinct sound/vibration. Confirmation was the thing not kicking in when I turned it on.
Since the pulleys were moving I placed it as close as I could.
I am going to see if I can get a shop to drain the R134A and test the system for leaks so I know what parts to buy. Could be it is only the compressor or could be leaks somewhere else that let it stop cooling properly. Now that it is cool I need to get at that temp gauge sensor to see if a wiggle will help.
Since the pulleys were moving I placed it as close as I could.
I am going to see if I can get a shop to drain the R134A and test the system for leaks so I know what parts to buy. Could be it is only the compressor or could be leaks somewhere else that let it stop cooling properly. Now that it is cool I need to get at that temp gauge sensor to see if a wiggle will help.
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 473
From: North Carolina
It is a very distinct sound/vibration. Confirmation was the thing not kicking in when I turned it on.
Since the pulleys were moving I placed it as close as I could.
I am going to see if I can get a shop to drain the R134A and test the system for leaks so I know what parts to buy. Could be it is only the compressor or could be leaks somewhere else that let it stop cooling properly. Now that it is cool I need to get at that temp gauge sensor to see if a wiggle will help.
Since the pulleys were moving I placed it as close as I could.
I am going to see if I can get a shop to drain the R134A and test the system for leaks so I know what parts to buy. Could be it is only the compressor or could be leaks somewhere else that let it stop cooling properly. Now that it is cool I need to get at that temp gauge sensor to see if a wiggle will help.
Might want to try putting some dye in the system too and using a black light with the funky yellow glasses to see where the leak is (if there is a leak).
Last edited by bronze; Apr 21, 2024 at 11:33 AM.
Record Breaker
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,232
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From: North Carolina
Or you have no leaks. Is your AC Clutch Relay working?
Last edited by bronze; Apr 21, 2024 at 01:24 PM.
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Champion
Joined: Sep 2013
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Well last time I purchased the sensors whenever I did the plenum I think in 2013 they were < $10 at carquest before it became Advanced Auto. Today the 2 wire is $27+ and the one wire is $25 at AZ. On RA the single wire is $8.06 for the sensor and $8.99 for delivery! At least I saved 7 bucks. I noticed the gauge moved when I went around corners and otherwise sat on C while driving.
Reading the FSM I don't see how I can properly diagnose the AC. I think I'll just pay to get it diagnosed and go from there.
Reading the FSM I don't see how I can properly diagnose the AC. I think I'll just pay to get it diagnosed and go from there.
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Champion
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I made an appointment. He would not commit to diagnosis. On the phone when I asked if he would diagnose it he was "well we do evac and fill ". I guess I got lazy and made the appointment. He wants $183 and change. I'm thinking that should tell me everything that is wrong with the AC system but I suspect he was giving himself room. Is there some specific way to ask them to do the job thorough the first time? I don't want to be back there in 3 months after it all leaks out. Bronze, he also seemed to think it was the clutch after I described the noise.