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It took test fitting a fender on the cab to bring me to my senses. I admit I was wrong. Some of you asked why the engine looked so far forward. Since I copied someone else's engine mount adapter plates for putting an LS into a 1st Gen Dakota chassis, I neglected one big difference in my application. I am using a Studebaker truck body, not the original Dakota body. Pretty obvious oversight, eh? It took mounting the front fender to realize a big issue. The entire drivetrain needs to move rearward at least two inches. Yup, I need to make new adapter plates for the engine mounts. The body position on the Dakota chassis is finally ironed out, and the body can't be moved since the wheel openings line up so good.
But when you come around to the engine bay, the real problem becomes obvious. The mounts for the core support puts it way too close to the front of the engine. There is no room for a radiator.
Reset the game clock, please. The cross member has plenty of adjustments for the new position, thankfully. Two steps forward, three steps back. I will finish the body mounts now that I have the bed and cab lined up so well, then the drivetrain comes out (again). I also found a conflict between the core support and sway bar mounting brackets that needs to be addressed as well.
I am using the stock Studebaker front cab mounts, with some modifications. I had to trim a couple inches off the length, and drill a thru hole for the bolt position. I will back the top of the bracket with angle steel, joining the chassis, angle, and the mount bracket together. I am bolting it together to mark the perimeter so I know where to grind off the chassis paint.
Are you using a 1st gen Dakota chassis? As soon as the drivetrain comes out, I will post detailed pics of the adapter plates for you.
yeah it's a 93 v8 I have a semi fresh 5.3 with some extras ready to drop in something lol, trying to come up with a reason not to do a dodge stroker lol
Attached to this post is the template for a LS into a Dakota (using stock Dakota engine mounts). This template is what I started with, and had to make some adjustments to it along the way. Since the mounts are offset, one adapter plate needs to be much longer than the other.
The stock engine mount is bolted to the adapter plate using three countersunk screws. This is to clear the casting ribs on the block. On the back side edge, extensive clearance grinding is required as well, including grinding into one of the bolt heads. A lot of test fitting was needed to get a flush fit on the block. One of the bolt locations into the engine block is covered by the stock mount, and can't be used.
Last edited by TheSneeze; Feb 1, 2026 at 03:42 PM.
One of the OEM mount holes is common. One requires a through hole without a countersink bolt, since there is clearance between the block ribs. One OEM mount hole requires notching to be used. A flat washer is required under this bolt head.
im ordering new mounts and the steel plate first thing in the morning even if i dont use the 5.3 it might be wise to have them ready just incase iv been know to blow things up before lol