About a year or so ago it started catching as it closed where the roller goes over the hard spring tang. I sprayed it with lithium grease from a can and at first it did not work but a day or so later it did. It started again last week. It is so bad now the whole door lifts as it goes past that point.
I have sprayed it with liquid wrench and the lithium grease again. Checking further the metal face on the door where the hinge is welded is flexing a lot. The other door which doesn't have this issue is solid and does not flex. Anyone have experience with this problem or advice for how to tackle it? I'm going to wait a day or so to see if the spray works again but I suspect this is a bigger problem in the offing. There is no visible rust or degradation of the metal from the outside. I have not removed the interior door panel to look at it closer yet. I think I would have to remove the fender to get a better look at the spring to see if that is what is failing.

 

Probably just corrosion... PB Blaster would help break it down, the lithium grease once its free will keep it moving... for a while.

 

It looks bad. I put on my magnifiers and it looks like the metal has separated on one the inside side of the hinge. It is supposed t finally stop raining on Monday I will take the door apart and look inside. Pretty sure based on the description of how to take the door/hinges off in the FSM which does not even mention the fender, that I have to remove the fender to do it. I bet that involves taking a lot of the front bumper off too I wonder if it will be cheaper to buy a door or a wire feed welder and some sheet metal and try to fix it meself?
If I lose weight I can get away with only opening it halfway without stressing it

 

Think I would just look for a good used door, with the door side of the hinges still attached.... Then just knock the pins out to change the door..... No fender removal required, and you can put in new bushings while you are at it.

 

I was gonna ask which pins for which when I saw the last info bubble I clicked on RA had all four pins in the set so I grabbed it. Pretty good for $4.57 + shipping. Now to find instruction vids that fill in what the FSM doesn't show. Thanks.

 

I have a conundrum. The passenger btm hinge looks different from the driver btm hinge. Maybe I'm just old. I did find this video by LMC I hope might work. And there was a guy on there Brody Holtz who had the same issue with a 96 with the new body style on his passenger door. He removed a lot of the body to get to take out the whole door and hinge to take it in to get welded. And I am now unsure the pins I ordered will work. Let me know if this looks right for the 1994 Sport.Here's that LMC vid if you want to see a guy do the pins on a bench.

 

Hhhhmmmm...... I expected pins that you could just knock out in place, with a hammer and punch..... are those guys staked in there??

 

You can really see the driver side hinge has dipped into the body of the door compared to the passenger side. I think I will have to remove the whole door and hinge.

 

That will very likely require removing the fenders as well..... Bummer.

 

I opened the interior panel and removed the speaker. This is what it looks like from inside. I hammered it out as much as possible. Had to push the door out to get it to go back into position and then it went right back on closing. I can probably weld it but I have to take the door off.