1988 Dodge Dakota Oil Consumption...3.9L, Auto - 2WD...
My Rislone mentions something about valves...The label is a mess...Its in my back Pole Barn which I use mostly in the warmer months. I wonder if there is a shelf life on the stuff? Honestly not sure if its a engine oil additive or a fuel additive. My guess its a engine additive by the thickness factor when you shake it.
I guess its a good time to talk about snake oil and things to consider...
Decades ago I ended up helping a buddy replace a old Chevette 1.6L engine as he added too many STP Engine Honeys to a engine in a winter environment. One made the engine run so much better he said...so he add two more bottles. A Connecting rod Bearing spun one cold day driving back from a college class (very soon after - days). Back then Chevette engines were a dime a dozen and a $100 yard engine lasted him thru college to his first job and he sold the vehicle to a friend who made it into a mini pickup truck (on that same engine). I would see that thing for quite a few years at the local Meijers...always wondered if that was the same engine I put in it with my buddy.
I saw that there is some stuff by Molly that will engine flush a engine that you add to the oil just prior to a oil change. Let it run in the engine 15-20 minutes. Then change the oil. Seems straight forward.
Appears on Youtube some have experienced sludge dislodging which blocked a oil passage....not good. This product is not the only one.
I guess things to all consider...For me in my situation...the least invasive/risk...is still going to change the oil (5W30), check timing, check PCV Valve, try and locate the remaining hose issues, and try things again. It runs decent enough, gets decent mileage, and this oil loss situation is something new. Miles are miles at this point on the vehicle and the actual issue will eventially be apparent.
Thanks
Chris
I guess its a good time to talk about snake oil and things to consider...
Decades ago I ended up helping a buddy replace a old Chevette 1.6L engine as he added too many STP Engine Honeys to a engine in a winter environment. One made the engine run so much better he said...so he add two more bottles. A Connecting rod Bearing spun one cold day driving back from a college class (very soon after - days). Back then Chevette engines were a dime a dozen and a $100 yard engine lasted him thru college to his first job and he sold the vehicle to a friend who made it into a mini pickup truck (on that same engine). I would see that thing for quite a few years at the local Meijers...always wondered if that was the same engine I put in it with my buddy.
I saw that there is some stuff by Molly that will engine flush a engine that you add to the oil just prior to a oil change. Let it run in the engine 15-20 minutes. Then change the oil. Seems straight forward.
Appears on Youtube some have experienced sludge dislodging which blocked a oil passage....not good. This product is not the only one.
I guess things to all consider...For me in my situation...the least invasive/risk...is still going to change the oil (5W30), check timing, check PCV Valve, try and locate the remaining hose issues, and try things again. It runs decent enough, gets decent mileage, and this oil loss situation is something new. Miles are miles at this point on the vehicle and the actual issue will eventially be apparent.
Thanks
Chris
All,
The vehicle sat for a number of years...abandon by family at my place...got her back up and running again (igntion issues)...She now is over 172K miles
Upon Valve cover removal found thick sludge, more than what I would consider normal...it was also like pudding not typical years of buildup sludge. Replaced the valve covers as the one side was leaking a little. Put a new set in gaskets in and drove the vehicle for most of summer into the fall as my daily driver. A deer collision took out my other daily driver.
The vehicle behaved (ran well) and I put close to 10K on the odometer since I have got the truck back on the road. Not noticed much oil consumption till recently,,,but again I changed the oil/filter every 3K miles figuring that sludge in the top valve cover probably indenticated neglect by the previous owners. Previously I always used 5W30 Synthetic Walmart oil for the vehicle. Its clear that the previous owners did not use Synthetic. (Sludge and build up is prevalent on internal parts)
Anyways, the last oil change I used a 5qrt of 10W30 Synthetic Walmart brand and Fram oil filter...kind of partial to the Fram line as my parent company I work for owns FRAM. I usually use 5W30 or 10W30 Walmart Full Synthetic as most of my vehicles call for those weights except for the wifes new Caravan. I had a 10W30 5qrt set aside a while for my Full Size GMC but not put the miles on it so I used it on the Dakota.
Did not notice any consumption till around 1800 miles since the last oil change...about this time though the temps started to plummet in the normal winter fashion. In our area...Temps drop and Start with a couple single digit low and teen high days which I drove in but not daily...Upon discovery of low oil...something in the top end makes a rattle... I added two quarts of 10W30 Synthetic. The sound went away basically instantly after adding the oil and restarting things. I found the noise, during the normal morning warm up start. A couple minutes before I head out.
Then the temps plummeted...Since that time the temps really plummeted which I am sure you all know...we are talking single negative and a couple double digit negatives (before windchills are figured in). The highs barely reached 5 degrees on a good day. Not to mention a dump of a foot or more of snow which made things "fun". I remember driving on the day in Dakota when the high was in the negatives. (not windchill)
Unfortunately I had to drive the Dakota in the snow and cold for almost 2 weeks daily as my daily driver(same as the deer incident one) collided with a curb and bent a inner tie rod (nice L Shape Tie Rod). This was prior to the snow storm when we had a nice Ice storm.
I went out this morning, about 600-700 miles since my add of oil, another single digit start of the day temps, to find the same warm up tapping in engine (top end). Checked the oil and it was low again...say close to quart to quart and half low. I shut it off and let it sit for 10 mins...checked it and I could see some touching on the stick...where a few minutes after nothing was visible.
I am not seeing any oil on the ground (snow underneath makes it pretty apparent - parked in same spot always). Valve covers seem dry..No smoking (at least not a fog) and the engine seem to run fine. No unusual smells.
I will add that each oil change at 3K or below the oil is filthy. I mean my other 7 vehicles none have oil this bad. Its always indian ink, thick, and needing a change. Other vehicles I see a red brown...the Dakota its black at 3K miles.
After reading posts and Google it seems like 750-2000 miles a quart of oil consumption is normal for a 3.9L.
Could my oil consumption be related to the fact I used 10W30 in these cold conditions instead of 5W30? (seems like it would be opposite to me but seems like 5W30 is the preferred suggestion in cold).
Could it be that this vehicle uses oil in the winter months due to age and wear on engine?
I have never flushed a engine but would a flush help things...If so, how or what does everyone suggest? I have heard transmission fluid or Murphys oil before...?
Take aways on my side...Can do a compression test and check the oil more regularly...Anything else?
Thanks everyone,
Chris
The vehicle sat for a number of years...abandon by family at my place...got her back up and running again (igntion issues)...She now is over 172K miles
Upon Valve cover removal found thick sludge, more than what I would consider normal...it was also like pudding not typical years of buildup sludge. Replaced the valve covers as the one side was leaking a little. Put a new set in gaskets in and drove the vehicle for most of summer into the fall as my daily driver. A deer collision took out my other daily driver.
The vehicle behaved (ran well) and I put close to 10K on the odometer since I have got the truck back on the road. Not noticed much oil consumption till recently,,,but again I changed the oil/filter every 3K miles figuring that sludge in the top valve cover probably indenticated neglect by the previous owners. Previously I always used 5W30 Synthetic Walmart oil for the vehicle. Its clear that the previous owners did not use Synthetic. (Sludge and build up is prevalent on internal parts)
Anyways, the last oil change I used a 5qrt of 10W30 Synthetic Walmart brand and Fram oil filter...kind of partial to the Fram line as my parent company I work for owns FRAM. I usually use 5W30 or 10W30 Walmart Full Synthetic as most of my vehicles call for those weights except for the wifes new Caravan. I had a 10W30 5qrt set aside a while for my Full Size GMC but not put the miles on it so I used it on the Dakota.
Did not notice any consumption till around 1800 miles since the last oil change...about this time though the temps started to plummet in the normal winter fashion. In our area...Temps drop and Start with a couple single digit low and teen high days which I drove in but not daily...Upon discovery of low oil...something in the top end makes a rattle... I added two quarts of 10W30 Synthetic. The sound went away basically instantly after adding the oil and restarting things. I found the noise, during the normal morning warm up start. A couple minutes before I head out.
Then the temps plummeted...Since that time the temps really plummeted which I am sure you all know...we are talking single negative and a couple double digit negatives (before windchills are figured in). The highs barely reached 5 degrees on a good day. Not to mention a dump of a foot or more of snow which made things "fun". I remember driving on the day in Dakota when the high was in the negatives. (not windchill)
Unfortunately I had to drive the Dakota in the snow and cold for almost 2 weeks daily as my daily driver(same as the deer incident one) collided with a curb and bent a inner tie rod (nice L Shape Tie Rod). This was prior to the snow storm when we had a nice Ice storm.
I went out this morning, about 600-700 miles since my add of oil, another single digit start of the day temps, to find the same warm up tapping in engine (top end). Checked the oil and it was low again...say close to quart to quart and half low. I shut it off and let it sit for 10 mins...checked it and I could see some touching on the stick...where a few minutes after nothing was visible.
I am not seeing any oil on the ground (snow underneath makes it pretty apparent - parked in same spot always). Valve covers seem dry..No smoking (at least not a fog) and the engine seem to run fine. No unusual smells.
I will add that each oil change at 3K or below the oil is filthy. I mean my other 7 vehicles none have oil this bad. Its always indian ink, thick, and needing a change. Other vehicles I see a red brown...the Dakota its black at 3K miles.
After reading posts and Google it seems like 750-2000 miles a quart of oil consumption is normal for a 3.9L.
Could my oil consumption be related to the fact I used 10W30 in these cold conditions instead of 5W30? (seems like it would be opposite to me but seems like 5W30 is the preferred suggestion in cold).
Could it be that this vehicle uses oil in the winter months due to age and wear on engine?
I have never flushed a engine but would a flush help things...If so, how or what does everyone suggest? I have heard transmission fluid or Murphys oil before...?
Take aways on my side...Can do a compression test and check the oil more regularly...Anything else?
Thanks everyone,
Chris
I'd warm the engine up the next time you change the oil and then add a quart of transmission fluid to the engine. Run it about 5 minutes and drain the oil and change the filter. I don't know if I'd run synthetic on an old engine with old design. I'd go with 10W-30 in cold weather. When the weather warms and you have another driver, I'd drop and clean the oil pan.
When you change the oil, add a bottle of UV dye for oil systems and get a test kit with the black light pen. I worked on a Chevy 454 that nobody could find the oil usage. The oil sending unit was in back like on your engine. When I pointed the light at it, there was a bright green trace leading to the sending unit. As a side note, I had a low consumption of oil with a quart every 600-700 miles until my plenum blew on the '96 with the 5.9 (360). When I pulled the Magnum intake, my sending unit was leaking bad. When I fixed the plenum, I also replaced the sending unit. This was at 168K and I'm at 172K now and I don't use a quart between oil changes at 3000 miles. The sending unit was blowing oil on the road into the slip stream when running. I never left spots in the drive.
ATF is a gentle cleaner and won't do much in 5 minutes. I used to replace a quart of the engine oil with it 500 miles before the next oil change was due. Now I just use the 5 minute flush cause I'm confident I don't have any big chunks in there.
Put that down to Cranial Flatulence. I meant to say kerosene. Why I said transmission fluid is beyond me. I've been up late and early to rise for several days now.
Oh yes, kerosene is a whole different matter. I know all about the sleeping issues. It seems my body has developed an internal alarm that wakes me around 3 AM every morning. Next thing you know, I'm reading articles on my phone for hours cause laying there and going back to sleep ain't working. By the time I doze off again, my real alarm is going off.
Oh yes, kerosene is a whole different matter. I know all about the sleeping issues. It seems my body has developed an internal alarm that wakes me around 3 AM every morning. Next thing you know, I'm reading articles on my phone for hours cause laying there and going back to sleep ain't working. By the time I doze off again, my real alarm is going off.
I'm retired and one thing I do in retirement is, I think, really important. This is a bad time of year for some people and I'm working with them to get through it. I run out of hours though.










