I always find PCMs for these old Dakotas on EBay.

 

You cannot flash an OBDI PCM. It simply does not have that capability. There is no need to flash it in any event. 96 and up, is a different story. (might be 98 and up.....) The various parts stores list that requirement for the older stuff, because the folks that write it, don't know any better.

 

I forgot about these guys. There is one in Fresno.
https://www.hollanderparts.com/used-...318-(5.2l),-at

 

I transferred all the wiring in the 60 pin connector to a connector I had gotten at Pick and Pull. It still died sporadically. I talked to a tech rep at a shop that tunes. They only work on 86 and up. When I told him I could get the engine to quit, by pressing on the connector, he thought it was a crack in one of the solder runs on the ECU board. I did find a place, SIA electronics, that said they would try to reman the ECU for $160.00, no guarantees.

I pried the board out of the ECU, thinking I could look for any problems. It turns out both sides of the board are covered in about 1/2 inch of gel. No way I was going to be able to get that gel off without damaging something. I put it back together, back on the truck, gently pressed the connector in place, and tightened the bolt until it just barely touched the connector. So far, so good. My theory is that even a small amount of pressure by the bolt on the ECU, warped the board enough to spread a crack in the solder. So, the problem isn’t really fixed, but the truck runs well, no dying.

 

When my ECU was petering out the engine would just die. Didn't matter if I was idling in the garage or doing 75mph down the highway. No warning, no nothing. Engine would just kill. And then it would never restart right away. Sometimes I'd have to wait five minutes, sometimes 45 minutes. There were a few times I'd tap on the ECU with the handle end of a screwdriver and it would fire right up. Sometimes not. Temperamental little rascals! Ended up with a remanned ECU. Was told my ECU was un-rebuldable due to the microprocessor crapping out. But yeah, if nothing else you are closer to confirming your problem and don't have to hunt for it anymore. Keep checking EBay. They're always turning over ECUs. Junkyards typically pull ECUs and sell them to refurbishers but not always so might be worth calling a few junkyards. Some of these refurbishers have them in stock. Just need the Mopar part#. I keep thinking I want to get a backup. These things are harder and harder to come by as the years go by.

 

If you found a source for a "new" one, buy it. It doesn't need to be flashed. If the part number is correct, it will simply work.

 

I replaced mine for $100 off Hollander parts. It wasn't the problem so now I have an extra. Anyway the reason I logged in was I remember one of our Canadian members years ago making mention of removing the gel with ??? (I imagine paint scrapers and wire wheel) and melting the solder on all the joints on the board and that "fixed" his ECU. I have seen people say they can remove some of the components on the board and replace them. If that were so, there would be evidence of it on any ECU you find. IDK that anyone has that gel to put back over it.
Anyway if you need an ECU...That Hollander link I provided above has one on Bakersfield now. I just looked at a map and you may or may not know that Sac has tons of auto recycle yards around it and you could probably get a used one closer to home where you deal ftf with them.

 

That's a very good price even for used (not refurbished). On the other hand, I kind of fall in the HY camp as it pertains to refurbishing. To me, if I had to guess, it means they clean it and put a new sticker on it.