I know I was wrong about the cam sensor ... got me a extra helping of crow for dinner

But.... that was one possibility of 3 ... for this problem where it starts off good and after time it starts bucking like a bronco.
Other 2 options was a 02 sensor and MAP sensor .... Since Dakotas are goofy and go both ways ... distributor & cam sensor ... what kind of forum is this?

I may be wrong on the crank sensor also ... on a Dodge Caravan 3.3 ... a crank sensor works, or you are calling a flatbed ... I also felt that something worked til it got heat soaked and then failed ... blamed crank sensor and replaced 3 times. I bought 2 NTK from RockAuto, then later found a NOS OEM Mopar unit and bought it ... all 3 worked fine and never was the problem.

Did we ever hear what year Dakota this is? ..... I'm guessing you have at least 1 02 sensor
An oxygen sensor (O2 sensor) is a crucial component in your vehicle’s exhaust system that monitors the amount of unburned oxygen in exhaust gases. It communicates this data to your car's engine computer (ECU), which adjusts the air-to-fuel mixture for optimal combustion, better fuel economy, and lower emissions

Do you have a MAP sensor ... some people do not think year/make/model matters ... so a lot of people guess ... some more then others
A MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor is a critical engine management component that measures the air pressure or vacuum inside your vehicle’s intake manifold. It sends this real-time data to the Engine Control Unit (ECU), which calculates air density and adjusts the air-fuel mixture for optimal combustion.

There is a old story going around, most ignition problems are actually fuel problems .... then when you think it is a fuel problem ... actually ends up being ignition.
The symptoms are so close to each other ... we really have to learn to be a detective and start looking at things.
A distributor with oem electronic ignition is pretty bullet proof ... the goofy pick up trigger inside the distributor does go bad ... or you have a ignition control module .... you need to use a $5 and verify spark when the engine is acting up.

If you know the spark is strong and steady while it is acting up ... then it is fuel and either 02 or MAP ... I'm not convinced throwing multiple crank sensors at it will fix it. I still believe, the engine starts or it does not with a bad crank sensor ... thats also what my mechanic told me.

While I may sound stoopid when I say the goofy trigger thing inside the electronic distributor ... I forget the name and just do not care ... look it up. I do have a 1949 Dodge flat head 6 engine I modified a 1980 Dodge electronic ignition distributor installed, then I control it with a GM HEI ignition control module and a Petronix Flame thrower coil with 8mm spark plug wires and lawn mower spark plugs .... go figure
I know a little bit about ignition systems.

What I'm reading is keep doing the same thing as you have always done ... keep getting the same results you always got .... go ahead and throw another crank sensor at it ... why not spend a couple $$ at spark tester and determine if you have solid spark or a fuel issue ... going to be one or the other ... a spark tester is cheap ... checking individual sensors is going to cost $$