I have a 92 5.2 auto. 4 speed. I can be driving down the road no spitting or sputtering and it just shuts down.Sometimes it starts back up immediately sometimes I have to wait a few minutes and then it fires right back up and runs fine.Could it be the pick up coil? This truck set for a year could it be dirt in the tank?When it shuts down I listen to see if I can hear the fuel pump ikck on when I turn the key on and I can so that seems to be working.I would appreciate any help.

 

Kind of sounds like lack of fuel. I had a similar issue. Start with the tank/pump. Could be clogged or crap in the tank..

 

yes, if the truck sat for awhile the gas could be bad, might have to drop the tank and flush it out. get rid of all the rust and sediment that had been building up

 

If its been sitting a while. Gasoline is made to a different recipe in the winter, winter gas in the summer causes vapor lock.

Air, gas, spark and timing.

If it was vapor lock another tank of gas should cure it. If a couple of refills have gone by than it is something else.

Years ago I had a 383 that would die because of a faulty coil external resistor. A multi meter should tell you if the coil is good.

 

Check the computer for codes and post them here.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1992/18-04-92.htm

 

The only codes coming up are 12 55.This problem is intermittant may do it once every 2 or 3 days or ot might do it 5 or 6 times in 1 day.Could it be the splice under the PDC box?

 

I would say, it could be!

 

Code 12 means the engine computer lost power. Have you disconnected the battery in last 50 starts of truck?

My truck just went through same. Things to check... There are three solder splices in the wire loom running from the relay/fuse box on drivers side near firewall to the engine computer on other side. Unwrap the electrical tape and locate 3 places where 4 wires come together and are soldered. One set is all blue wires, one is red wires with white or orange stripes the third is 2 black and two white or gray wires. Two of this are just beneath the fuse/relay box, the third (red ones) are a few inches past where the wire loom turns corner and heads across the firewall. Fairly close but to drivers side of the steering column. I repaired these by cutting out the solder joint and wirenutting the wires back together (required a couple inches of new wire and 2 wire nuts per joint). If this doesn't fix the problem then your engine computer may have been damaged from the shorting and you will need to replace it. To test that leave key in on position when truck wont start and give a firm whack with your hand to the side of the black box the computer is in. If this is your problem when you whack the computer you will hear clicking noises and the fuel rails pressurising and the check engine light will return. When intermittent problem is present you will note that immediate after turning key to on (not start) position you have no check engine light. The light should come on for 4 seconds when you turn key to on. Also you can't retreive trouble codes using the key on-off-on-off-on trick when this problem is present.

Don't put off the wire solder joint repair too long or it will eventually kill your engine computer, approx $200 to replace. I waited to long on mine...